boiling the coolant - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 01:40 AM Thread Starter
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boiling the coolant

took a ride thru Glacier, Yellowstone, Grand Tetons and Great Basin National Parks. in Yellowstone, after moving quite slowly in the afternoon, i parked the bike and noted the sound of boiling water from the radiator. this happened again in Grand Tetons, after a slow ride on gravel, and in SLC, after getting stuck in traffic. i only heard this after going very slowly and then parking. elevation is 5000-8000 feet in all the places where this happened.

besides flushing the coolant, is there anything else i should worry about? the bike ran well during and after these events. when i checked, the coolant level was fine, though that was on the side stand. i will have another look with the bike vertical on track stands.

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 04:22 AM
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Is the fan working? It should have come on before you heard boiling coolant. Check the fan working and your radiator cap seal is good.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 06:50 AM
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Year and mileage? Original coolant?

You want to drain out the old coolant, flush it and the reservoir, refill with distilled water, run it for a minute then flush it again. Clean and rinse your radiator pressure cap as well to rid of all dried coolant residue and paint chips... Refill with Long-Life Asian-compatible (not Dex-Cool) coolant, premixed or mixed 50/50 with distilled water.

Make sure your cooling fan is not jammed by a stone, and that it is functional.

Last edited by invader; 08-26-2015 at 06:52 AM.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 09:08 AM
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As jdrocks said, if the bike didn't overheat and the coolant boiled, that means the system is not holding pressure. In other words, the radiator cap is leaking, that is what causes the pressure drop.

These are approximate numbers, but a 50/50 coolant mix will boil at 220F without pressure and 265 under pressure. Dunno when the fan turns on on the Versys, but on my SV1000 it came on at 220F, it the system had no pressure the coolant would be boiling at that point, but under pressure the coolant doesn't boil. The point is, if there is no pressure the coolant will start boiling well within the safe operating temperature.

From you profile I see that you have a 2009, it would be a very good idea to do a coolant flush, put in new fresh coolant and a new radiator cap. I bet it will be as good as new afterwards.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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i never saw a warning light, there was no pool of coolant anywhere, i did hear the fan working a couple of times. thanks fellas!

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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 09:58 PM
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My experience with an '08 were that there was some contaminants on the radiator cap. Once I cleaned my radiator cap and reinstalled it, everything has worked well - with the exception of my right fork, which I am pretty sure has nothing to do with my cooling system.

It has been several years since I cleaned my radiator cap and this problem has not shown up again.

Good luck.

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-27-2015, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by kevrider View Post
took a ride thru Glacier, Yellowstone, Grand Tetons and Great Basin National Parks. in Yellowstone, after moving quite slowly in the afternoon, i parked the bike and noted the sound of boiling water from the radiator. this happened again in Grand Tetons, after a slow ride on gravel, and in SLC, after getting stuck in traffic. i only heard this after going very slowly and then parking. elevation is 5000-8000 feet in all the places where this happened.

besides flushing the coolant, is there anything else i should worry about? the bike ran well during and after these events. when i checked, the coolant level was fine, though that was on the side stand. i will have another look with the bike vertical on track stands.
There is a tank under the right fairing and sound comes from there . I occasionally hear that boil sound but that happens when I ride like I stole it It seems normal to me because normally there is always some liquid in the tank. If you say It is not normal that means I have a problem too
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-27-2015, 09:57 AM
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It should never boil, it is not normal at all. The tank is an "expansion tank", as coolant heats up it expands, instead of letting it burst the hoses due to the increased pressure, it is sent to that tank. When it cools down it contracts and coolant returns from the tank into the cooling system. If the coolant boils, the vapor uses much more volume than the liquid coolant, and it can empty the expansion tank, leaving you with vapor inside the cooling system, and air as the vapor condenses and there is no coolant in the tank to fill the system. Vapor is not good at removing heat, so it will lead to hotspots inside the engine...

The first symptoms of a problem with the radiator cap is a wet overflow hose or a couple drops of coolant coming out of it. If it is already boiling, then its already quite bad and you should fix it ASAP.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-27-2015, 07:36 PM
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The boiling like sound is quite common with the Versys 650 before the original coolant is flushed out and the radiator pressure cap (and reservoir) is cleaned and rinsed... It simply tends to leak from paint chips and dried coolant residue contamination. Coolant boils at a lower temperature when the cap won't hold as much pressure. No need to replace the cap with a new one when it can be cleaned out.

Last edited by invader; 08-27-2015 at 07:39 PM.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-28-2015, 06:41 AM
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Well, it means I am changing the old coolant and cleaning the cap. I am planning to bu CASTROL RADICOOL SF. Any comments for this coolant?

Last edited by ertano; 08-28-2015 at 06:43 AM.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-28-2015, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ertano View Post
Well, it means I am changing the old coolant and cleaning the cap. I am planning to bu CASTROL RADICOOL SF. Any comments for this coolant?
Excellent choice. It'd be really hard to find anything better... Castrol Radicool SF is a long-life coolant based on monoethyleneglycol with advanced organic acid inhibitor technolgy. In contrast to traditional antifreeze coolants, Castrol Radicool SF does not contain amines, nitrites, phosphates, silicates or other inorganic inhibitors. It provides excellent corrosion protection, particularly to those engines employing light metals, and also passes the Japanese Industry Standard JIS K2234 requirements.

http://www.woil.ro/userfiles/78b7dac...les/576734.pdf

http://kosser.net/masla/katalozi/cas...t_brochure.pdf

Last edited by invader; 08-28-2015 at 07:30 AM.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-28-2015, 08:35 AM
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Excellent choice. It'd be really hard to find anything better...
Thanks Invader. To be sure I needed another approval. Found the weekend job
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 08-31-2015, 08:55 AM
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I love this bike It was so easy to change the coolant. Versys is like Lego cubes
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-02-2015, 02:51 AM
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Little something, I rode my bike 2 times and every time when I park after the ride it drained off some coolant. Does any thing like this happened to you guys? PS: I filled the radiator and reserve tank when it was cold and the coolent level was full.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-02-2015, 01:03 PM
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I filled the radiator and reserve tank when it was cold and the coolant level was full.
That's why... It's just a bit full.
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 09-02-2015, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ertano View Post
Little something, I rode my bike 2 times and every time when I park after the ride it drained off some coolant. Does any thing like this happened to you guys? PS: I filled the radiator and reserve tank when it was cold and the coolent level was full.
did when i over filled my system and ran him hard on a hot day.... got a few drops and never any more and my levels between the lines

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