Leaking coolant - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 1Likes
  • 1 Post By fasteddiecopeman
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2015, 07:00 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Leaking coolant

Seems I got a bit unlucky and have a slow (for now) coolant leak.

Something has hit the water pump on the underside (shown in pic) and taken a chunk out, making me sad just in time for spring. To help orient yourselves the right of the image faces outwards on the right hand side of the bike (from perspective of the rider) on the left side you can (just) see the oil filter.



Any advice on what you (or a shop) might do to remedy this?

It seems (to me) that there are three pieces - pump housing, an (apparently very thick) gasket and then the engine casing where you can see the stamped number 8 and the bolts with 12 on them. Am I seeing that right, or is that piece in the middle actually a separate metal part with gaskets either side?

So a couple questions for the more learned than I...

1. IS that a gasket or a seperate metal piece where most of the impact damage is?

2. If it is a gasket, can I replace it and do nothing else and hope it fixes things?

3. Has anyone opened up that part and give me an idea how thick the gasket is? (Asking because it should give me some idea if 2. might work)

4. Suppose I need to fill the part of the hole thats on the engine casing side - How might that be done while still making sure the surface of the gasket seal is smooth.

5. Can I skip 1-4 and just put some kind of goo that will cure so I can stop worrying? Are there any long term consequences of this? (Like accidentilly bonding surfaces together and making water pump replacement difficult / impossible)

6. what would you do about said problem?

Thanks in advance!
- David.
Dave_ is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2015, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Ok, to answer one of my questions - that piece in the middle isn't a gasket - looks like the water pump housing (part # 13227)

Relevant parts pictures:

http://www.kawasaki.com/Parts/PartsD...2011/KLE650CBF

getting a sinking feeling that this is going to cost a few $$$ to fix...
Dave_ is offline  
post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2015, 08:43 PM
Member
 
invader's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Kapuskasing Ontario Canada
Posts: 7,827
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
No, the dirt did not knock a chunk off of your engine.

That is your water pump drain hole. You simply have a leak at the water pump seal (not at the water pump cover gasket) which can be replaced by a skillful mechanic.

Last edited by invader; 08-18-2015 at 11:42 PM.
invader is offline  
 
post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-18-2015, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
No, the dirt did not knock a chunk off of your engine.

That is your water pump drain hole. You simply have a leak at the water pump seal (not at the water pump cover seal) which can be replaced by a skillful mechanic.
Looking like a bit of a noob right now aren't I? I've since learned that its a weep hole, which by some sorta coincidence exactly explains whats happening..... (slow fluid weep)

I will take it to a mechanic with more skill than I. It does look to my eyes like something hit it there, but that doesn't appear to be the larger issue.

Gut feeling is that its a fix it now type problem, and not a fix it when it gets worse. Even got a recommendation on which shop to take it to. Will ask them to pressure test the radiator cap too, and make sure the overflow system is correctly relieving pressure.

Will try to post a couple ride reports in appreciation this summer :-)
Dave_ is offline  
post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2015, 09:29 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 456
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Rebuilding the waterpump is very easy, easily doable to the noob DIY shade tree mechanic. It's a good saturday project to have a few beers with.
Süsser Tod is offline  
post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-21-2015, 06:00 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 28
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
You're gonna have to rebuild the water pump impeller housing. I had the same issue. Same picture posted on the same forum. It's a weak seal and ca used my coolant to almost drain all out. Fix it now, not later. Parts are not expensive. Labor is.
TonyVersysTheWorld is offline  
post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-23-2015, 04:48 PM
Super Moderator
 
fasteddiecopeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Kelowna, BC - summer; Florence, AZ - winter
Posts: 17,351
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_ View Post
Seems I got a bit unlucky and have a slow (for now) coolant leak.

Something has hit the water pump on the underside (shown in pic) and taken a chunk out, making me sad just in time for spring. To help orient yourselves the right of the image faces outwards on the right hand side of the bike (from perspective of the rider) on the left side you can (just) see the oil filter.



Any advice on what you (or a shop) might do to remedy this?

It seems (to me) that there are three pieces - pump housing, an (apparently very thick) gasket and then the engine casing where you can see the stamped number 8 and the bolts with 12 on them. Am I seeing that right, or is that piece in the middle actually a separate metal part with gaskets either side?

So a couple questions for the more learned than I...

1. IS that a gasket or a seperate metal piece where most of the impact damage is?

2. If it is a gasket, can I replace it and do nothing else and hope it fixes things?

3. Has anyone opened up that part and give me an idea how thick the gasket is? (Asking because it should give me some idea if 2. might work)

4. Suppose I need to fill the part of the hole thats on the engine casing side - How might that be done while still making sure the surface of the gasket seal is smooth.

5. Can I skip 1-4 and just put some kind of goo that will cure so I can stop worrying? Are there any long term consequences of this? (Like accidentilly bonding surfaces together and making water pump replacement difficult / impossible)

6. what would you do about said problem?

Thanks in advance!
- David.
Try SEARCH.

I had a leak on my '08 a few years back, and started a thread about how I fixed it.

Ed
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


'08 V AZ, '15 V650LT BC
Ride to D2D 2013, June '13

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Ride to D2D 2015, June '15

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Ride to D2D 2016, June '16

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
fasteddiecopeman is offline  
post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-26-2015, 02:50 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Apologies for not searching. To be fair I had originally thought something put a hole there and took me a while to understand that the hole is a design feature and its purpose (not my finest moment.)

You did start a thread! Appreciate the pictures in post #17.
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...k-my-08-a.html

Thanks for the help. Hopefully I can resolve soon.

- David.
Dave_ is offline  
post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-07-2015, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
any tips on press fitting the new mechanical seal?

almost there and this seems to be the only tricky part left.

I was thinking of making something with a threaded rod to apply even pressure to the lip that ends up making contact with the water pump housing. (Making the housing hot and the bearing cold wasn't enough to allow press fitting by hand).

- David.
Dave_ is offline  
post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-07-2015, 08:34 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 456
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_ View Post
any tips on press fitting the new mechanical seal?

almost there and this seems to be the only tricky part left.

I was thinking of making something with a threaded rod to apply even pressure to the lip that ends up making contact with the water pump housing. (Making the housing hot and the bearing cold wasn't enough to allow press fitting by hand).

- David.
That's how it is done Long screw and washers.
Süsser Tod is offline  
post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-08-2015, 12:30 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Ok, so I'm on the right track. Will I damage the seal if I remove the spring sealing piece placed inside the mechanical seal bucket?

Its hard to get a good press on the rim of the seal otherwise.

Appreciate your patience,
- David.
Dave_ is offline  
post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-08-2015, 04:03 PM
Super Moderator
 
fasteddiecopeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Kelowna, BC - summer; Florence, AZ - winter
Posts: 17,351
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_ View Post
any tips on press fitting the new mechanical seal?

almost there and this seems to be the only tricky part left.

I was thinking of making something with a threaded rod to apply even pressure to the lip that ends up making contact with the water pump housing. (Making the housing hot and the bearing cold wasn't enough to allow press fitting by hand).

- David.
David - I'm PRETTY sure that I used an appropriate-sized socket to 'press' the new IN, after getting the old OUT.


Ed
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


'08 V AZ, '15 V650LT BC
Ride to D2D 2013, June '13

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Ride to D2D 2015, June '15

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Ride to D2D 2016, June '16

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
fasteddiecopeman is offline  
post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-10-2015, 06:50 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
All back together now, press fitting with a bolt and a bunch of washers ended up doing the trick. Don't think its a great idea to take that thing apart.

Everything else was straight forward. My torque wrench seized, so wasn't able to get the torques to spec. Wish I could check the impeller bolt to make sure its ok. Maybe I'll take it apart in a week or two and check for tightness.

Very happy I decided to see if the torque wrench worked on the rear axle first.

No leaks so far after a half hour ride.
Dave_ is offline  
post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-10-2015, 11:46 AM
Member
 
silviefox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: welches, oregon
Posts: 3,116
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Garage
Send a message via Skype™ to silviefox
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_ View Post
All back together now, press fitting with a bolt and a bunch of washers ended up doing the trick. Don't think its a great idea to take that thing apart.

Everything else was straight forward. My torque wrench seized, so wasn't able to get the torques to spec. Wish I could check the impeller bolt to make sure its ok. Maybe I'll take it apart in a week or two and check for tightness.

Very happy I decided to see if the torque wrench worked on the rear axle first.

No leaks so far after a half hour ride.
theres something to say about the old oldschool dial torque wrenchs..

yes im a guy.
Silvie=latin for. Of the forest /woods. Fox= Vulpine (also my middle name)

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

"closed mindedness causes bliss in simple minded people"
silviefox is offline  
post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-11-2015, 01:17 PM
Super Moderator
 
fasteddiecopeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Kelowna, BC - summer; Florence, AZ - winter
Posts: 17,351
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_ View Post
...Very happy I decided to see if the torque wrench worked on the rear axle first....
I believe that ANY torque wrench that will work on the rear axle is TOO heavy for stuff like the 'water-pump'. Harbor-Freight sells quite good inch-pound torque wrenches for as little as $10....
canit likes this.

Ed
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


'08 V AZ, '15 V650LT BC
Ride to D2D 2013, June '13

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Ride to D2D 2015, June '15

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Ride to D2D 2016, June '16

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
fasteddiecopeman is offline  
post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-13-2015, 06:00 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 456
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
I don't trust my torque wrenches at very low torque values, they are pretty inaccurate at the "edges" of the scales and engine covers requiere what, 10 lb/ft? For that I have a small 1/4" ratchet.

BTW, whenever you're using a torque wrench you should not start and use it right away to torque something. Start at very little torque and torque a bolt that requires a lot of torque, that way you make sure that it is not seized and that everyting inside of it is working, then you work on whatever you're doing, butr even then you torque the bolts in a couple steps.
Süsser Tod is offline  
post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-13-2015, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 20
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
$10 torque wrenches sound great. prices are a little steeper here locally (Australia). After my experience I think I'd prefer a dial/beam type anyhow.

The torque I wanted was at the lower end of the scale for the wrench, and I get that they're not as accurate there. ended up checking over the weekend to see if it was still tight, and it was. Medium-firm (less than a pickle jar) pressure on a torque wrench that was probably less than 4 inches long was enough to move the nut very slightly (less than a degree.) I doubt I've overtightened either, and if I have there's nothing I can do.

one day (hopefully soon) I won't be a rent-paying unpaid PhD candidate getting by on a few hours of tutoring a week, but for now I figure its not a bad outcome given I was working in the uni parking lot.

Either way I learned something.
Dave_ is offline  
post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-14-2015, 11:58 AM
Super Moderator
 
fasteddiecopeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Kelowna, BC - summer; Florence, AZ - winter
Posts: 17,351
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
I believe that ANY torque wrench that will work on the rear axle is TOO heavy for stuff like the 'water-pump'. Harbor-Freight sells quite good inch-pound torque wrenches for as little as $10....
Just checked the latest H-F advert in a magazine - the torque-wrenches are NOW $11.99 each.

BTW - "Car Craft" magazine did a test of torque wrenches several years ago, and rated the H-F ones as VG! (I have several, of EACH size.)

Ed
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


'08 V AZ, '15 V650LT BC
Ride to D2D 2013, June '13

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Ride to D2D 2015, June '15

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Ride to D2D 2016, June '16

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
fasteddiecopeman is offline  
post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 09-14-2015, 12:03 PM
Super Moderator
 
fasteddiecopeman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Kelowna, BC - summer; Florence, AZ - winter
Posts: 17,351
Mentioned: 23 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_ View Post
...After my experience I think I'd prefer a dial/beam type anyhow....
I have BOTH (dial/beam type), as well as 'clickers'. Some jobs just work BETTER for me, w/ a clicker. For instance - torquing an oil-plug where the "dial or beam" would be UNDER the wrench, facing the floor. The IMPORTANT thing is to SLOWLY increase pressure till it 'clicks' - NOT just 'reef' on it!


Ed
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


'08 V AZ, '15 V650LT BC
Ride to D2D 2013, June '13

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Ride to D2D 2015, June '15

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Ride to D2D 2016, June '16

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
fasteddiecopeman is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Versys Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome