2nd Oil Change at 194 Miles - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-31-2010, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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2nd Oil Change at 194 Miles

I just did my second oil change on my 2010 V at 194 miles. I did the first one at 51 miles. Both times I was able to see metallic specs in the oil that was drained. My next change will be at 600 miles. IMHO, you can't be too careful with a new engine.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-31-2010, 02:38 PM
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Did my first at a thousand miles; no metal or anything else in it and it was still new looking.
New cars go up to 15K on the first change, can't really see why any water cooled modern engine should be any different??
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-31-2010, 03:53 PM
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Overkill IMO but what colour is the crucial info? If bronze? your in trouble!

If silver? just normal clutch basket flashing etc. Nothing to worry about.
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-31-2010, 04:12 PM
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That's why a magnetic drain plug is invaluable.

Integrity is doing the right thing, even if nobody is watching.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-31-2010, 05:00 PM
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That's why a magnetic drain plug is invaluable.
thats true.but in the rare case its alu you have serious problem ...
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-31-2010, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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Overkill IMO but what colour is the crucial info? If bronze? your in trouble!

If silver? just normal clutch basket flashing etc. Nothing to worry about.
Not sure about it being nothing to worry about. The thought of shavings being circulated throughout a running engine cannot be a good thing.
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-01-2010, 12:17 PM
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I think is not that good to change the oil and filter that fast.
A new filter allows small particles to pass, a filter that is there few hundred km will block ( retain) more of the particles that can come in the engine; not to keep it for more than 1000 km, though...

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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-01-2010, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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I have never heard anyone suggest that you can harm an engine by changing the oil too often.
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-01-2010, 02:08 PM
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I have never heard anyone suggest that you can harm an engine by changing the oil too often.
Some manufacturers of CARS put additives in for the break in and demand that you wait X amount of miles before the first change and even then they say to not swap the filter (that sounds nuts though). I do not know about bikes, but changing the oil too often is more of a waste of money than anything. Warranty would surely cover a motor that died due to particles at under 200 miles. I'd have the dealer document it, but my guess is that its normal as everything is just getting started in life.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-01-2010, 02:12 PM
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Not sure about it being nothing to worry about. The thought of shavings being circulated throughout a running engine cannot be a good thing.
You said they;re tiny specks, not shavings? - One job of oil is to hold those too small to be filtered, and carbon in suspension.

The clutch plates and basket fingers typically create most tiny specks, espcailly from new. Aluminum debri of larger sizes is normally just case/clutch flashing. which is normal. Often it will safely lay in the case anyway or else get filtered. Sometimes caught by a mesh pump pickup filter (not sure what the V has?)

steel would be gears/rotating parts (sometimes pump rotor) but I've not seen really fine steel particles, more like bits/debri, normally a precursor to catostrophic g/box failures. selector forks, dogs, bearings etc.

You've still not said, but bronze/copper/gold will be crank bearings. that you have to worry about.
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-01-2010, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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You said they;re tiny specks, not shavings? - One job of oil is to hold those too small to be filtered, and carbon in suspension.

The clutch plates and basket fingers typically create most tiny specks, espcailly from new. Aluminum debri of larger sizes is normally just case/clutch flashing. which is normal. Often it will safely lay in the case anyway or else get filtered. Sometimes caught by a mesh pump pickup filter (not sure what the V has?)

steel would be gears/rotating parts (sometimes pump rotor) but I've not seen really fine steel particles, more like bits/debri, normally a precursor to catostrophic g/box failures. selector forks, dogs, bearings etc.

You've still not said, but bronze/copper/gold will be crank bearings. that you have to worry about.
the specks are silver only
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-01-2010, 06:41 PM
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I'm not sure why anyone would change the oil so early.
I don't care to look to see what is in my old oil.
Sometimes ignorance is bliss.

Your bike will probably grenade the engine a week or so after warranty expires.

I change mine as the manufacturer specifies, not before.
Heck I change my VW oil every 10,000 miles, just like they specify. 245K so far, and not an issue. In Europe, the OCI is specified even longer. I wonder if it is the same case on the V??

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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 02:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Cruiseman View Post
I just did my second oil change on my 2010 V at 194 miles. I did the first one at 51 miles. Both times I was able to see metallic specs in the oil that was drained. My next change will be at 600 miles. IMHO, you can't be too careful with a new engine.
You must be breaking in your bike according to motoman... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I break in all my bike the same way... Wondering what oil you use... Not starting a oil thread though...

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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-03-2010, 11:58 PM
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I think is not that good to change the oil and filter that fast.
A new filter allows small particles to pass, a filter that is there few hundred km will block ( retain) more of the particles that can come in the engine; not to keep it for more than 1000 km, though...

You have that backwards. As the filter gets more loaded it will allow more and larger particles through due to the increase pressure drop across it. A new filter will always perform better than a loaded one.


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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 10:36 AM
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I did mine the same, oil changes at 50, 200, 600 and then every 2500 miles.

On the Versys it always looked good and was probably overkill. On my old Buell there was a lot of "stuff" in the oil the first 2 times and it was pretty clean by the 3rd oil change. If that is a quality indicator, the Versys will last a lot longer than the Buell did.

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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 11:59 AM
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It is completely normal for there to be metal particles in oil durring break in. That is why most manufacturers have a 1st service after 300-600 miles, to change out the particle filled oil, its just part of breaking in a new motor. A change at 51 miles is definatly overkill.
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 01:23 PM
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hell it was 900 miles before i changed mine the first time..lol
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 03:35 PM
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Some people like to waste money LOL

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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 04:35 PM
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I changed mine a lot in the beginning. I happen to believe Motoman. He's got pictures and proof. The way I look at it, it's only 2 1/2 quarts per change and all you do is two extra maybe three extra oil changes. (the cost of a night out drinking). You only have one chance to break in a new engine right. When you see how much metal is in the first changes, leaving it in there bouncing around can't be good. I'm happy.
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-04-2010, 08:17 PM
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You must be breaking in your bike according to motoman... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I break in all my bike the same way... Wondering what oil you use... Not starting a oil thread though...
I concur! Have over 30k on my KLX Still running strong!

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