Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: western canada (Ab)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
addressing the original post and some comments after.
1) make sure the brand and style of master link is the same as the chain (read the side plates)
there are very slight differences in pin diameter, length and strength between brands, just because it fits in the hole, doesn't mean it's the correct one and slightly different ones will lose the easier clips from slightly different tolerances and/or rattling in the hole. one with too long of pins will catch the clip on chassis parts and flip it off. Some Hondas have a d-type chain, extra narrow o-ring...if you run a normal o-ring chain it will wear a hole in the engine case...good argument for run proper replacement chains only, and/or don't believe all chains are the same..lol
2) dot says endless chains only on street bikes, make your own choice here. personally, I run a clip so I can service it easier if required (carry over from dirt bike days when a thrown chain needs to be un-tangled from the axle). I also make sure the clip is still on everytime I lube, and carry a spare clip under the seat.
3) grind the rivet head flat before breaking the chain with a tool, a good quality breaker will push out a un-ground pin but few people buy the best quality ones unless they are mechanics. just price out the tools , they range from $20-$250, (can you guess which is a better one-lol) BTW-once ground flat, all you need is a punch and hammer.
4) suzuki endless chains are pre-riveted in the box, you have to remove the swingarm to change the chain if you don't cut and re-rivet.
5)paint brush, cake pan, and a couple of cups of deisel is my cleaner.