Intro & 1st brake job - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-30-2015, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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Intro & 1st brake job

I'm the accidental owner (took as part-ex on a truck I sold) of a red 08 non-ABS with 10k miles, (with a backfiring Two Bros aftermarket exhaust) a few weeks ago (I had an older KLR 650 a couple of years ago).

I'm on an island 15 miles long, 5 miles wide and if I'm not going up hill, I'm either going down hill or round a bend.

To the best of my knowledge, I'm the 3rd owner, 2nd had owned for 3 years and didn't really know much about history, beyond that, don't believe he did any maintenance, which included checking tire pressures, when I took possession pressures were 24Fr, 9.5Rr (handling was squirly to say the least and rear Michelin PR3 was toast, the softer sides having been totally worn away, tire has ruts where the side grip should be!

Read various posts here about brake longevity, which should be well beyond my 10K miles, but ordered new EBC pads anyways as mine looked pretty worn.

They arrived today and I had planned to wait til my new rear tire (Michelin PR4) arrives and do all at once - but I had some spare time and decided to put them on - what a breeze, all three sets in less than 20 mins )

Anyways, the brakes I took off were EBC, not the Toyo??? (sp) brand that was original equip, so both tires and brakes have been replaced and worn out again with 10K!!!!

It is widely accepted that the cost of living in the islands is high, but this is just another factor, motorcycle tires and brakes last about 5K miles!.

Regarding brake discs, I'm thinking these are in my future, they are smooth, but there are definite concentric smooth ridges.

Given this, I'm a little concerned about chain and sprockets, chain slack is at the upper limit and I had planned to correct to mid range when I replace the tire, rear sprocket doesn't look too bad, worn, but not terrible.

Have already done,
1. Oil & filter change
2. Brakes
3. Custom Panniers (cheap)

Anyways, have the following immediate future planned,
1. New rear tire
2. Rim reflective tape
3. New Spark Plugs
4. Clean Air Box
5. New Air Filter
6. Adjust Throttle Sensor
7. Pair Valves
8. Connect throttle bodies
9. 12V Gauge & Socket.
10. Additional LED brake light.

Longer term
1. Back Off lights.
2. Back rack

When I have the tank off, what else should I do? don't want to get too deep (or any deep) into the engine right now.

Anyways, thanks in advance for any assistance and thanks for all the assistance this site has already provided.

Regards, Glen
St Thomas VI
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-30-2015, 09:03 PM
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Stock plugs are iridium and last a long time.
Airfilter can be washed and oiled.
Screwin' with the PAIR valve will get you nothing.
Same with connecting throttle bodies.
Groves only add surface area on brakes, no need to replace.

Might want to consider checking valve adjustment.
Change coolant
Change fork oil
Change brake fluid
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-30-2015, 09:37 PM
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The spark plugs' non-iridium ground electrodes would be slightly worn down by now. Sealing the PAIR valve along with a main throttle sensor adjustment will take care of the backfiring with a couple of brothers, and improve low-end throttle response and drivability.... I see what you mean now by 'connect the throttle bodies' with a 6" long 5/32 ID vacuum hose hose, which does improve low-end tractability without sacrificing overall performance.

You could also synchronize your throttle bodies after your tune up and valve adjustment. You're on the right track!
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-30-2015, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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1 characrter!

Stock plugs are iridium and last a long time.

Many thanks for the comments, bought new $10 NGK Iridium plugs, if the originals (good for 60k miles) look good, I'll take back

Airfilter can be washed and oiled.
Bought a cleaner kit - would probably have been cheaper to buy new filter!

Screwin' with the PAIR valve will get you nothing. Honestly, I don't know what this is, except I read it (here) it would improve low rev back-firing.

Same with connecting throttle bodies.
As above, read it improved low rev manners.

Groves only add surface area on brakes, no need to replace. Had been my gut feel, my rear pads were really bad (guess PO had a lead foot) fronts had about a 1/3 left.

Might want to consider checking valve adjustment.

Change coolant - checked and added, original was clean, may do a flush and refill when rear tire is off.

Change fork oil - for ATF??? This is a short on road commuter, little or no off road, should this still be on the list?

Change brake fluid - probably a good idea, given pad wear, might do SS line replacement -just not yet.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-30-2015, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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Opps, messed up message and reply formatting!!

Damn newbie!!
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-31-2015, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millarg View Post
...Change fork oil - for ATF??? This is a short on road commuter, little or no off road, should this still be on the list?...
I use (and recommend ATF in the forks). Here's what I use from WalMart.
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File Type: jpg -WalMart fork oil copy.jpg (37.7 KB, 38 views)

Ed
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-01-2015, 12:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millarg View Post
I'm the accidental owner (took as part-ex on a truck I sold) of a red 08 non-ABS with 10k miles, (with a backfiring Two Bros aftermarket exhaust) a few weeks ago (I had an older KLR 650 a couple of years ago).

I'm on an island 15 miles long, 5 miles wide and if I'm not going up hill, I'm either going down hill or round a bend.

To the best of my knowledge, I'm the 3rd owner, 2nd had owned for 3 years and didn't really know much about history, beyond that, don't believe he did any maintenance, which included checking tire pressures, when I took possession pressures were 24Fr, 9.5Rr (handling was squirly to say the least and rear Michelin PR3 was toast, the softer sides having been totally worn away, tire has ruts where the side grip should be!

Read various posts here about brake longevity, which should be well beyond my 10K miles, but ordered new EBC pads anyways as mine looked pretty worn.

They arrived today and I had planned to wait til my new rear tire (Michelin PR4) arrives and do all at once - but I had some spare time and decided to put them on - what a breeze, all three sets in less than 20 mins )

Anyways, the brakes I took off were EBC, not the Toyo??? (sp) brand that was original equip, so both tires and brakes have been replaced and worn out again with 10K!!!!

It is widely accepted that the cost of living in the islands is high, but this is just another factor, motorcycle tires and brakes last about 5K miles!.

Regarding brake discs, I'm thinking these are in my future, they are smooth, but there are definite concentric smooth ridges.

Given this, I'm a little concerned about chain and sprockets, chain slack is at the upper limit and I had planned to correct to mid range when I replace the tire, rear sprocket doesn't look too bad, worn, but not terrible.

Have already done,
1. Oil & filter change
2. Brakes
3. Custom Panniers (cheap)

Anyways, have the following immediate future planned,
1. New rear tire
2. Rim reflective tape
3. New Spark Plugs
4. Clean Air Box
5. New Air Filter
6. Adjust Throttle Sensor
7. Pair Valves
8. Connect throttle bodies
9. 12V Gauge & Socket.
10. Additional LED brake light.

Longer term
1. Back Off lights.
2. Back rack

When I have the tank off, what else should I do? don't want to get too deep (or any deep) into the engine right now.

Anyways, thanks in advance for any assistance and thanks for all the assistance this site has already provided.

Regards, Glen
St Thomas VI
Welcome. I would suggest downloading the service manual from this site, it's in the tech section.

EBC HH pads are best and give great brake feel. Not the same as EBC non HH pads.

The brake rotors should never need replacing unless you damage them thermally from say track use or not replacing the pads. You can lightly sand them with emery paper and a block if you wish but this should not be necessary with 10K. I would however make sure the calipers are well cleaned and there is no gunk around the brake cylinders as this can prevent them from retracting and ruin new pads and possibly your rotor. You may have to remove the cylinders and replace the seals. Remember hold the larger cyl to allow the smaller one to pump out when removing the cyl. Pump them out with the brake handle and hydraulic pressure, don't pull them out with a vice grip or you'll scratch them. Cleaning the cylinders will prevent future brake and rotor issues. Also clean and lube the brake sliders. It is very, very, important these can slide freely.

Don't forget to synch the throttle bodies. Throttle sensor should never need adjustment normally. Idle speed is easily adjusted. No pair valve work is needed. Disabling these has no benefit.

Last edited by twowheels; 08-01-2015 at 12:07 AM.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-01-2015, 04:35 AM
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-01-2015, 07:36 AM
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Many thanks for the comments, bought new $10 NGK Iridium plugs, if the originals (good for 60k miles) look good, I'll take back
The plugs may look good, but , check them with an OHM meter to the new one`s just to be shure the resitors are in specs,, + or -,, 2 %
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-01-2015, 09:02 AM
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If you don't have a rear rack then no huge rush for the Back-Off add ons... But! Once you have a rear rack and maybe a top box, your OEM brake light will be severly obscured from drivers close behind you who are in a tall vehicle. Back-off lights mounted low... before the rear rack is the way to go.

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2011 Kawasaki Versys
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