Broken clutch cable - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
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Broken clutch cable

My clutch cable broke with only 12500km on bike. Is this normal? Just a helpfull hint installing this; start with the clutch end and not the lever end. Removal is in reverse order. Wasted time figuring this out.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 08:49 AM
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I replaced mine at 47,500 kms. I did it as a "just in case" before heading out on the big Colorado Tour. Upon closer inspection of the old cable, I could find no wear or signs of any damage. I do shoot some lube on the lever end from time to time but I'm certain I never really lubed it according to any correct standards.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 08:58 AM
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Leave the old cable in place and use it a guide for properly routing the new cable. Clutch cable will last a long time if properly maintained. I lube cable about once a year.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-24-2015, 02:45 PM
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On my '10 the cable broke with only 5,000 miles on the clock or so, and it broke on the engine side of the cable, and from what I've found here, that is not too common.

I usually lube the cable at least on every service and every now and then I'll put in a few drops of oil. I'm at 42Kms and there is no noticeable wear on the cable but it looks pretty dirty, and when I lube it with one of those cable lube things and a can of lube, dirty oil comes out. Next time I'm going to try cleaning it with carb cleaner before the cable lube.

Last edited by Süsser Tod; 07-24-2015 at 03:11 PM.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-25-2015, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twowheels View Post
My clutch cable broke with only 12500km on bike. Is this normal?....
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Originally Posted by Süsser Tod View Post
On my '10 the cable broke with only 5,000 miles on the clock or so, and it broke on the engine side of the cable, and from what I've found here, that is not too common....
For both of you: the bikes come from Kawasaki w/ the clutch adjusted so that the "friction-point" is quite far from the handle-bars (ie - the dis-engage/ engage point) is JUST as you start to move the clutch lever. Think this through - any MORE squeeze on the lever is STRETCHING the cable, leading to breakage.

Does that sound familiar on your bikes?

I have ALWAYS adjusted my cables (and friends' cables, Vs and KLRs) to where the 'dis-engage/ engage point' is closer to the bars, and in fact helped a new Versys owner do the same on his 2015 650LT yesterday.

BTW- I drip some WD40 down the cable from the lever-end, regularly, and then put some grease around the 'barrel'.


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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-25-2015, 03:03 PM
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+1 grease on barrel.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-25-2015, 03:05 PM
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I found air tool oil is the best for cables. Flows down the cable well and repeals water and is cheap

yes im a guy.
Silvie=latin for. Of the forest /woods. Fox= Vulpine (also my middle name)

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-25-2015, 03:10 PM
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The little cable thingy that fits around the cable end and takes a spray can/straw is worth its weight in gold.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-25-2015, 08:04 PM
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44,000 km original cable

Last edited by MaverickAus; 07-27-2015 at 11:25 PM.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-26-2015, 09:26 AM
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Before my cross country a couple of years ago I purchased a new clutch cable and pre-routed it along my original and regularly lubricated cable which had about 5k miles on it by that time. I sealed both ends of the spare clutch cable with plastic bag and duct tape. I figured if my cable broke I'd be miles ahead by just having to disconnect one cable and hooking up the spare. 21k miles on my original cable now and still prepared for the worst.

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-26-2015, 09:43 PM
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apart from regularly lubing the cable (and grease the part where the cable end meets that metal)

i add a rubber cover on top of it for further protection. 73k kms and i am still on the original cable.

Current : Maroon 2011.
- Fender Extender - Radiator Guard - 19mm Nissin radial master - Nissin 4-pot caliper - SS brake lines - Osram Hyper 65W both low/high beam - LED 30w aux floodlights & 3w DRLs - Rear Hugger - Givi crash guards - Yoshimura TRC Carbon - Dynojet PC5 - Scottoiler - R1 shock with Ohlins 14.2 kg/mm spring - Imitation Givi Windshield - Rear Givi rack with 24ltr Givi top box - Bosch dual tones - Z800 stock mirrors.

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-27-2015, 07:50 AM
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As already stated- grease the barrel at the lever. That is where they always break. No need to disassemble every time. I take mine off once a year, drip some 3-in-1 oil down the cable, clean off old grease then re-grease and assemble. A few times each season I shoot some chain lube into the barrel, usually when it starts to feel less smooth. Those cables can last a long time but some attention is required.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-27-2015, 08:07 AM
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apart from regularly lubing the cable (and grease the part where the cable end meets that metal)

i add a rubber cover on top of it for further protection. 73k kms and i am still on the original cable.
Where can I get one of those rubber covers?

Thanks
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-27-2015, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
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Where can I get one of those rubber covers?

Thanks
Egay I know some older Hondas (twinstar for sure) came stock with them

yes im a guy.
Silvie=latin for. Of the forest /woods. Fox= Vulpine (also my middle name)

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-27-2015, 09:39 PM
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Where can I get one of those rubber covers?

Thanks
as stated by silvie above, just search for "clutch lever rubber cover" or "clutch lever dust cover" and you would be presented with a few choices. most popular among older dirtbikes.

Current : Maroon 2011.
- Fender Extender - Radiator Guard - 19mm Nissin radial master - Nissin 4-pot caliper - SS brake lines - Osram Hyper 65W both low/high beam - LED 30w aux floodlights & 3w DRLs - Rear Hugger - Givi crash guards - Yoshimura TRC Carbon - Dynojet PC5 - Scottoiler - R1 shock with Ohlins 14.2 kg/mm spring - Imitation Givi Windshield - Rear Givi rack with 24ltr Givi top box - Bosch dual tones - Z800 stock mirrors.

Up next :
- Protaper SE ATV Low - PIAA Platinum low
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