Blown headlights - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-17-2015, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Blown headlights

Issues I am having is my low and high beam burn out quickly. As in a brand new low beam lasted me less than an hour of riding. High beam lasted longer but maybe only a week of riding home ~50 miles. Total time on, maybe 8-10 hours.

Okay, so I dont know a lot about electrical systems but this is what I have tested.

I used a digital multimeter on the plugs to the R/r with ohms and they all came back with a 1.

I used the 12volt setting on the headlight low beam and it didn't return anything the first time but after turning on then off the bike it was registering 12.5.

I thought maybe it is the stator going bad and I have the compufire r/r but before I make any modifications I want to properly troubleshoot.

What else should I check?

2011 versys with 55,000 miles.

Steve
34000 miles and counting!
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-17-2015, 07:36 PM Thread Starter
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Okay... I replaced the low beam light socket, the old one had a really bad burnt grounding side.

Now troubleshooting when I hit the starter it sometimes doesn't turn the light on but the bike starts fine.

Steve
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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-17-2015, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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Tested the voltage at the city light. Bike key in the on position, voltage going into the city light (little light above lowbeam) was hitting over 17v and kept rising.

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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-17-2015, 08:36 PM
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regulator

sounds like the voltage regulator is fried... check it's connections just in case it's just a connection issue. It will be shunting excess voltage to ground when working correctly
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-17-2015, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
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I've checked numerous times the connection. It is fully connected.

Guess I get to wire the compufire.

Steve
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 08:57 AM
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Yep, bad voltage regulator, don't ride the bike until you fix it or you'll fry the ECU and speedo.
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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So I used the multimeter on the oem regulator and it passed according to this video. Rick's Motorsport Electrics, Inc. How to test a motorcycle rectifier regulator.

Then when I tested the stator connections the same way that Rick tests in his over video it failed. I am going to redo the tests now that it is light out just to see but is there anyway that the regulator could pass the tests but still not work?

Steve
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-18-2015, 08:29 PM
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So I used the multimeter on the oem regulator and it passed according to this video. Rick's Motorsport Electrics, Inc. How to test a motorcycle rectifier regulator.

Then when I tested the stator connections the same way that Rick tests in his over video it failed. I am going to redo the tests now that it is light out just to see but is there anyway that the regulator could pass the tests but still not work?
Go to technical forum, "burnt stators" , my post 317, follow instructions for comp-u-fire. If you have a meter, which you say you have, make sure your engine ground is not corroded, ( just behind the clutch cable---foot brake side of bike, 3 inches left of starter), also check the frame ground is also sound, re-check your battery connections. Start bike with meter connected to battery or city lights, raise idle to 2000 rpm with idle screw adjustment, if at anytime you exceed 14.5 VDC, shut it down, before you have ECU failure.That is the end of the story---------I am puzzled as to why you have a superior regulator sitting around, honestly, the only thing I would check is the 3 phase voltages at 2000 RPM with the plug to the regulator by the TPS disconnected, measure A to B , B to C and C to A, at 2000 RPM with no load, it should be around 28 to 36 VAC, all readings should be within 2 VAC== next step disconnect the positive post of the battery, cut the wires off the regulator as close as possible to the plug, chuck it in the garbage where it belongs. Next , connect the positive wire to the white with blue tracer, use a good crimp or twist and solder, take the negative wire all the way up to the frame ground or get a large 3/8 ring crimp and connect to engine ground. The 3 phase wires need to be spliced to the three black wires, the brown stator wire needs to be isolated as it is not used. Follow my post in 317 about the headlight relay and discharge diode-------if you are lucky, your stator may be OK



I may need to re-do the instructions for compufire, as I have resolved the power drain issue, this is described somewhere in 317 or earlier.
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-19-2015, 04:18 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the instructions. I read through the stator post which is where I found the information for the compufire. I will be checking the grounding connections, I hadn't checked the engine one yet and will make sure everything is shut down before 15v pops up.

I am learning as I go on this bike and sometimes I get rather frustrated... I'm not very good with electrical.

Steve
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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-19-2015, 01:58 PM
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Thank you for the instructions. I read through the stator post which is where I found the information for the compufire. I will be checking the grounding connections, I hadn't checked the engine one yet and will make sure everything is shut down before 15v pops up.

I am learning as I go on this bike and sometimes I get rather frustrated... I'm not very good with electrical.
Since I have spent several years researching my own set up, and finally resolved the 38 milliamp drain problem, I like to give back when I can, as this forum is one of the very best, and it is this because of the people that frequent it, on the top of my list is " Invader ", I have a 07 purchased in 08, if he hadn't posted about the TPS tweaking, I think I would have sold the bike, as it is, this is one of my best rides ever.

As to electrical, this is my specialty, motors, motor control, generators, alternators, DC drives, frequency drives, large synchronous motors, I specialize in the repair of large inverters, biggest one is 2.5 megawatt.

So if you have a area that isn't clear, post it under this thread and I will try to explain in a different way.
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post #11 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-22-2015, 02:26 AM Thread Starter
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An update!

I have the new regulator installed, then after having my bike on a battery tender i ride into work, go out to get on it for the trip home and.... bzzz. not enough power to start the bike.

Charged it again last night hoping i could make it home, nope. Full bike died while riding. Sounds like I will be looking at testing the battery and checking the stator physically then replacing the bad components.

Yay for progress, my headlight didn't blow!

Steve
34000 miles and counting!
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post #12 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-22-2015, 09:08 AM
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Are you sure the compufire is working? You should not be draining the battery while riding.
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post #13 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-22-2015, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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I was at a stop and turned on the blinker when it died. So I didn't have the engine anything above idle.

Steve
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post #14 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-22-2015, 11:08 AM
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What is your idle at and check your voltage at battery with key off . key in with motor off. Key on motor on at idle 1250-1350rpm. And key on motor on and crank your idle up to 2500-3000rpm and report back with what they are. If it goes over 15 volts abort

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post #15 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-22-2015, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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13.16v fresh off charger, 12.93 idle, 13.00v 3k rpm, 13.07v 5.5k rpm with headlight off. Retesting with light on.

Steve
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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-22-2015, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
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12.64v headlight on and key to on. 12.63v headlight on at idle. 12.67v headlight on 3k rpm. 12.72v headlight on 5k rpm.

Steve
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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-22-2015, 11:55 AM
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If that's without headlight then your voltage is quite low. Mine is 12V key off 13.5-14.2 at idle and same at higher rpm unless the fan is on then 12.5ish at idle and 13 something at higher rpm

yes im a guy.
Silvie=latin for. Of the forest /woods. Fox= Vulpine (also my middle name)

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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-22-2015, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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Would not having a working stator cause it to not have the proper voltage?

Steve
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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-22-2015, 12:05 PM
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Yes a burnt stator would cause that. It could also be the rectifier but normally that causes over charging. So I'd test stator first

yes im a guy.
Silvie=latin for. Of the forest /woods. Fox= Vulpine (also my middle name)

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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 07-22-2015, 03:24 PM
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Yes a burnt stator would cause that. It could also be the rectifier but normally that causes over charging. So I'd test stator first
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