Sand off the oxidation on top of your battery posts.
You can see VDC across dirty contacts, buy amps will not cross dirty contacts
If it does not help , then at the least you have one less thing to worry about
I am not sure if you are referring to my post, if you are, you have missed several things. First, measuring resistance of starter. I would like to see how you could have 12 volts between the solenoid load side and ground, without the starter turning over. Measuring from the start solenoid yellow with red tracer to ground and pressing start if you get 12 volts, proves the start relay works, do you hear clicking of the solenoid? I have seen solenoid coils fail, that is you have 12 volts at the solenoid but nothing happens, ain't the battery, it is the solenoid. This is the point where shorting out the solenoid proves your battery is OK.
I am going to suggest a really easy way to prove your starter is OK and your battery is OK, if you have booster cables. Most cables have about 2 feet of free cable at each end. First disconnect your positive battery terminal at the battery.If you have a meter available connect it to the battery and follow my instructions:
Next, slide the rubber boot connection back at your starter. Pay attention !
Use a piece of hard cardboard , piece of wood , anything you can clip one end of the cables to, just like you were going to connect to a car. Clip them on to the cardboard keeping them separate. Next connect the black to your starter post, connect the red to your positive battery. Make sure your bike is in neutral, next, short out the cables connected to the cardboard. Two possible outcomes; your starter begins to turn but battery voltage drops to under 8 volts in less than 5 seconds----------new battery required OR starter spins like crazy and battery remains at about 11 volts after 30 seconds, you have a solenoid or starter relay problem.