I finally got a c-tec red, yellow, green voltage check light, and it revealed, after sitting for 2 days on the weekend, that my charge at idle was yellow to red (low charge.) But it immediately bumps to green when the throttle rises a 1000 or so rpm from idle at 1000 rpm (that may be too low and a problem.)
Part of that may be heated grips, but most is due, I assume, to my bright lights on all the time: they are staying on, period. So I stopped at Cycle Gear and got a MAGNABOOST charger on half price sale for $40 which is pretty nice, and more powerful with more options than a Battery Tender. It took 30 seconds on the 2a (it also has 4a) charge to turn green, so I caught it before any significant battery damage took place. MAGNABOOST also detects bad battery cells.
So my question to the Guru's is are there any alternatives to keep voltage charged where it will read green charge at idle like:
1. increasing idle until green light never goes out (to over 2K rpm?), or
2. put a capacitor charging unit that activates at low rpm/idle?
Maybe just the battery tender MAGNABOOST sitting on it every chance I get will be what I need, as I did nothing before since I rode it every day, almost. My dual horns were weak sounds at idle after sitting over the weekend, as my BMW 650's dual horns were also weak at idle too (all the time): but I thought the superior Japanese electronics would overcome that problem - evidently not.
Like someone said here, I'm putting the voltage light indicator on my handlebars in front of my eyes to always monitor that, and afterwards, I'll likely bump up my idle (unless someone has a capacitor gadget to boost voltage at low rpm's.) Hopefully, I will not have any electronic problems from running at low voltage some owners seem to have various electronic problems. The bike ran perfect and I'm glad I put the c-tec voltage light meter on my wire connectors or I would have never known until I messed something else up like my battery or worse ($$$.)
Any useful input would be appreciated.
Your ignition system, tail light, headlight, fuel pump, instrumentation, city lights.
Additional intermittent loads
Fan, signal and brake lights, plus anything else you have added.
capacitor charging unit
------------had to do that
Not possible, simple method is remove some of your load, change city lights to LED, plate light to LED
You could also change the regulator to Polaris, as this way the stator only runs at actual load not full output.
Stator output equals running load
around 1380 to 1420 rpm,(1450 RPM is my IDLE
) add 5 amp load above OEM and raise RPM by roughly about 100 RPM, this only works for about 7 amp total increase above OEM (150 RPM increase or 1570 to1600 RPM), ( your fan running[additional load
] will also be equal to roughly 5 amp) after that you need to be at or above 3000RPM for maximum output. Remember the stator is something like 330 watt at 27.5 amp / 12 volts. Volts X amps = Watts. To find amps, divide by volts. So maximum amps at 14.2 volts is 23.23 amps. Last time I checked, my running load was something like 9-- 11 amp. I have 65 watt Osram lights.
To relate to something we use every day at home;your toaster or electric kettle uses 4 times the maximum power of the stator output, OR the Stator output is 1/4 that of what you need for your toaster to run.
Thanks Joe< I assumed the OP new what idle was suppose to be, even mentioned it may be low. Added edit to my post of idle.