One of the benefits of my new V is reducing the wrench time that was required on maintenance tasks on my previous 15 year old bike. Of course, there's the mandatory farkling, but that's fun wrenching.

At some point in the near future I'll be installing a fuse panel in some TBD location near the front of the bike. So, I anticipate that I'll have to pull the tank to route a power line up to the front.

As long as I'm removing the tank, I want to solicit input about anything else that I should be doing while I'm in there. The bike is low mileage (prolly a couple of thousand miles when I get around to this), so there's not really any maintenance required - just wondering if there are any other little tasks that I should perform that may make life easier down the road.

Thanks in advance!

Couldn't hurt to clean and oil your air filter while you're under there. Maybe have a look at your spark plugs?

If you have a Sync tool, syncing the throttle bodies is pretty quick and easy to do. Yours probably won't be too far off, but i believe i heard member here say his low mileage Versys was a off a bit with under 6k miles.

- I just sync'd my TBs and it made huge difference.

Be very careful of the fuel line fittings... they can be pretty fragile and a new fuel pump is big bucks!

Here's an example of a breakage and a smart and economical fix.

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ad.php?t=16462

Have you considered placing the fuze box under the seat? Many have, works fine, and no need to bother with the tank. And, you'll need to access the fuze box when you add accessories.

True Dat... what if you blow a fuse in the middle of nowhere at night. Do you really want to be removing your tank?

I placed my fuzeblock under the seat where the toolkit sat and it's quickly accessible and I ran wires forward without removing the tank.

Cowboy,

Do have a link to a recommended Sync tool? Thanks.

Dave

Thanks for the reminder about that fuel line. I hate it when you can instantly go from "Almost done - I'll be riding in 15 minutes." to "Oh !#$##!!?" so quickly.

And yeah, I looked at putting a fuzeblock under the seat, but everything that I'll want to power off of it will be located in the front, and I prefer the idea of running just 1 long power line. I don't plan on powering anything that's mission-critical with the possible exception of heated gear. However, if it's cold, dark and I blow one of those fuses - I'm heading for a motel.

I use the MotionPro sync tool. http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0411/

This one doesn't have gauges to measure the actual vacuum, but works for fine synchronizing purposes.

There might be better ones, or cheaper ones, but this is what i use and it works well. If you're on a tight budget here is also a homemade tool, that many claim works well...

Really though the tool pays for itself the first time you use it.

Why would you remove the tank for fuzeblock?

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ad.php?t=18741

I mounted my Fuzeblock under the seat where the OEM tool kit goes.
I used velcro to secure so I can lift it out to work with it.
I used 8 or 10 gauge wire from battery to block.
I used the tail light circuit for my switched power connection.

I don't think you should have to do anything else while you have the tank off. With only 2000 miles if you have to have maintenance with that low mileage that would be pretty bad. Just my humble opinion!


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Be thank full you have a Versys. pulling the tank of is quite easy.

Once the side panels are off you are only 2 bolts and 3 hoses away from tank release.

It is a whole lot easier working on the bike with the tank removed when routing wires upto the front. Just make sure you make a note of the gaps between frame and tanks so you do not put a wire where the tank could rub on it.

You should NOT need to do anything w/ plugs (or air-filter at 2,000 miles UNLESS you're in a VERY dusty environment) at that mileage.

As i was reading what you guys were saying about the fuel lines, i had a question.

Is it normal for the fuel line (red plastic fittings each end) to be fairly stiff or rigid?

A joke in there somwhere. ...

I see its about 80 bucks to replace. I think there is a bit of a formed elbow or some curves in it..

Your sayin its ok to just replace the fuel line and re-use the fittings... is it truly a formed line with curves, or is mine just old, and stuck in a curved mode?

Again, insert jokes...

Didn't mean to swing the topic or distract from the OP's initial quest....

I'm with fasteddie on this, but for a different reason: When you remove the airbox, you are taking a very small risk with very frustrating consequences. To wit: There's a tiny chance that, when you remove the allen bolts securing the airbox, one of them will fall into a throttle body.

It's probably not going to happen. But the risk outweighs the reward when your mileage is so low.

Similar story with the spark plugs: When you remove them and then screw the plugs back in, there's a tiny chance that you'll misalign the threads and cause a huge headache. Again, the risk outweighs the reward when your mileage is so low.

The less you mess with the engine, the less likely you are to make a mistake that damages the engine.

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it..." applies here.

I guess I'd have to agree with this too.

If it ain't fixed, you should prolly fix it...

Hahaha! Ooooops! Better fix that so as not to spread bad advice.

Well, if you are going to mount the fuse box up front, Think about putting strong magnets (rare earth, found at home depot) on the back. Then just stick it to the tank. Under the fairing. I have a 08. I did that to my Ipod wireless remote. It connects to a connie left control. So if I need to remove for any reason, no problems.

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