Tank removal and plug change - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-05-2015, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Tank removal and plug change

If I'm taking the tank off to re-organize some wiring with a new fuse box, and to clean the air filter, should I change the plugs. I got a little wary when I heard talk that I also should do some other more technical items than I am familiar with. I'm coming up on 7,000 miles and while she is running great, my gas mileage is staring to decrease, but I am doing almost all city riding.

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-05-2015, 06:57 PM
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If your going to have the tank off you might as well go ahead and change them. Very simple to do, you might have to pry the stick coils off.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-05-2015, 08:01 PM
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There is a 7500 mile service that includes replacing the spark plugs and cleaning the air filter.

Now is the time to do the above. Why put the bike back together now and then remove the tank again in 500 miles.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-05-2015, 09:49 PM
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reduced fuel millage can be due to dirty coked up cylinders... taking the spark plugs out is a quick and easy check to see how your engine is running.

If the Spark Plugs are fouled and dirty with a lot of carbon, then you heads and valves will also be dirty and this will reduce you millage.

Checking the plugs is basic bike health maintenance. At 7,000 miles You probably do not need to change them... some have used the originals for many many more miles.

While you have the Tank off - check and balance your Throttle Bodies. This can also help millage.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-06-2015, 01:55 AM Thread Starter
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Joe, I haven't pulled the manual out yet, but am doubting that the term "prying off sticky coils" is in there. What's the rub and what's the process? With regards to the balancing of the throttle bodies that Gigett mentioned, is this something that is explained in the manual, and will i need anything special(tool) to calibrate or adjust? Please realize that the only engine M & R done in the last 40 years has been changing out the plug(s) on lawn mowers.

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-06-2015, 09:56 AM
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here is a nice low tech write up of that procedure.
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ad.php?t=77513

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-06-2015, 10:37 AM
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Suggestions for you:
  • Buy a pair of spark plugs. When you remove the plugs and check on them, you can put them back if they look fine. Then you have the replacements in your possession when you need to replace them in future.
  • Get a few feet of spiral wrap or wire loom or whatever you call it from the auto parts store. Use it to protect the wiring between the new fuse box and the front of the bike. Wires can get pinched easily under the tank and in the area where the tank meets the saddle. Check the wiring after you put the tank back on to make sure you're not pinching anything.
  • This project is harder when the tank is full. The lighter the better.
  • Before you take the tank off, figure out where you're going to put it. I recommend laying two short lengths of 2-by-4 on the floor and spacing them apart 6 or 8 inches or so. The tank's fuel connector is plastic and it sticks down from the bottom of the tank. Setting the tank on the 2-by-4s, with the fuel connector dangling between them, will protect it from breakage. (The boards can be set on the floor on their wide sides.)
  • When you put the tank back on, make sure both rubber mounts are still on. They're near the headstock. Sometimes a rubber mount wants to fall off and roll away.
  • The next time will be easier.

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-06-2015, 01:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayj View Post
Joe, I haven't pulled the manual out yet, but am doubting that the term "prying off sticky coils" is in there. What's the rub and what's the process? With regards to the balancing of the throttle bodies that Gigett mentioned, is this something that is explained in the manual, and will i need anything special(tool) to calibrate or adjust? Please realize that the only engine M & R done in the last 40 years has been changing out the plug(s) on lawn mowers.


I didn't see it the manual that you would need to stick a screw driver through the original oil filter to get it off or get a bigger gorilla than the one kawasaki uses to get the front sprocket off in there either..

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-06-2015, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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Joe, I did not know what the stick coils were, not having changed anything but a lawnmower spark plug in 40 years. Do I have to replace these every spark plug change, and if so, what do they cost?

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-06-2015, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayj View Post
Joe, I haven't pulled the manual out yet, but am doubting that the term "prying off sticky coils" is in there. What's the rub and what's the process? With regards to the balancing of the throttle bodies that Gigett mentioned, is this something that is explained in the manual, and will i need anything special(tool) to calibrate or adjust? Please realize that the only engine M & R done in the last 40 years has been changing out the plug(s) on lawn mowers.
You do not need to replace your stick-coils as a regular occurrence, ONLY if they fail. (Stick-coils are the spark-plug wires CONTAINING your coils.)

What Joe meant, was, that they are hard to pull up, so sometimes GENTLE use of a pry of some sort will help them come up enough to be able to pull them off the plugs.

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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-06-2015, 04:11 PM
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Joe, I did not know what the stick coils were, not having changed anything but a lawnmower spark plug in 40 years. Do I have to replace these every spark plug change, and if so, what do they cost?

Some of the 2008's had issues with the stick coils cracking. I found some cheap ones off a 2010 and upgraded my 2009. It wasn't needed i just like to spend money doing stupid things sometimes.

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-06-2015, 04:28 PM
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My stick coils come off easily. The spark plugs don't have those screw-on nipples on them. Should they? (If so, I have to find some. When I bought plugs recently, the screw-on nipples weren't in the packages.)

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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-06-2015, 04:30 PM
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My stick coils come off easily. The spark plugs don't have those screw-on nipples on them. Should they? (If so, I have to find some. When I bought plugs recently, the screw-on nipples weren't in the packages.)

Screw on nipples not needed...

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With all this talk, I have to get one of my old jokes in here.

Do you know what bumps are around a woman's nipples? It a form of Braille saying, suck me.

Sorry, I can't help myself. To many jokes upstairs I have to get rid of. Thanks for all your help and advice as usual.

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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-06-2015, 05:38 PM
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Then I'm a compulsive Braille reader.

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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-06-2015, 05:48 PM
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With all this talk, I have to get one of my old jokes in here.

Do you know what bumps are around a woman's nipples? It a form of Braille saying, suck me.

Sorry, I can't help myself. To many jokes upstairs I have to get rid of. Thanks for all your help and advice as usual.
I bet her say "Yummy"
544583_10200358780186629_1405519864_n by weljo2001, on Flickr

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Last edited by weljo2001; 05-06-2015 at 05:51 PM.
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-08-2015, 04:11 PM
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...It wasn't needed i just like to spend money doing stupid things sometimes.

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