Bike fell over/handlebars now forward. Help - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-03-2015, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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Bike fell over/handlebars now forward. Help

So my brand new V had a soft landing last night. I was backing it up into its space in my garage and that space is elevated a step so I got the back wheel up it and then when I was pushing the front wheel up it fell over onto my dirt bike. I have tire smear on the tank and some nicks and scrapes but everything on the handlebars are pushed forward. The levers are pushed/rounded forward so far that my fingers can barely reach them. The bike didn't fall hard but not its different. What can I do to fix it?

Thanks
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-03-2015, 06:43 PM
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The bars themselves are adjustable, can be pushed forward or backward by loosening the middle clamp. Levers and switches can be rotated on the bars to suit rider by loosening clamps. By keeping the loose enough to rotate barely by hand you prevent breakage in little tip overs.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-03-2015, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by waltermitty View Post
The bars themselves are adjustable, can be pushed forward or backward by loosening the middle clamp. Levers and switches can be rotated on the bars to suit rider by loosening clamps. By keeping the loose enough to rotate barely by hand you prevent breakage in little tip overs.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-03-2015, 09:08 PM
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A little more detail. The above posts are correct. The center clamp has four plastic plugs that cover the allen head bolts. Here's how I do it. Put a towel or something similar on the tank to keep it from getting scratched. Completely loosen either top bolt and the bottom bolt diagonally across from it. Now slightly loosen the other bottom bolt. Finally, while holding the bars, loosen the last top bolt. Position the bars where you would like while sitting on the bike. According to the manual there is a punch mark on the bar that you align with the clamp. Now, snug up the bolts in the reverse order making sure the bar is centered under the clamp. Do the final tightening (again, according to the manual) by torquing the top two bolts to spec, then the bottom ones. This puts the clamp gap at the bottom, unseen. The torque setting is 25 n-m or 18 ft-lbs. The bolts should still have some locking agent on them. I always clean it off with a soft wire brush and apply new.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-03-2015, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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Yep, that was the case. All better now thank you please see my next post about the lowering link. That might help fix my tipping over problem. Thanks.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-04-2015, 02:06 AM
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Yep, that was the case. All better now thank you please see my next post about the lowering link. That might help fix my tipping over problem. Thanks.
When you get that done, what helped me is a bar riser. MY knuckles dragged the tank when turning, and it felt SO much better riding and pushing with about an inch extra clearance for better control. When and if you change it, you'll wonder why they did that stock. I'd go for the cheaper one for $50 or used, since the vibrations riser is $150 painted black. I got the vibration one, but the distance is the main thing on the 2012 and 2013 bike since our's don't vibrate like the 2008 and 2009 anyway.

You need control, because that dead weight will squash you! Your garage exit sounds like a booby trap. Stretch and do yoga breathing exercises before you exit
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 05-04-2015, 05:23 AM
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Were you straddling the bike when backing it into the spot? If too tall to do that, tty leaning it a little against your hips while holding both grips and use your leg strength to move it backwards.

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