Tach needle shaking - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-30-2010, 02:55 AM Thread Starter
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Tach needle shaking

Hi Guys

A few weeks ago I felt my bike started vibrating more than it used to and noticed my needle on the rev counter also started shaking around the 4 000 and 5000 rpm range. It is not like it is jumping up and down but just shaking. Have any of you guys seen it on your V's ?

This all started after a few weeks after the received its 30 000km service where the valves was checked and spark plugs was replaced. I tried checking if a connector was loose or something but couldn't find or see anything out of place.
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-30-2010, 03:31 AM
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It could be the speedo cable is loose, this happened to me on other bikes with the same result, although it was all the way through every gear, not just at specific revs.
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-30-2010, 05:21 AM
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Hi Guys

A few weeks ago I felt my bike started vibrating more than it used to...
This all started after a few weeks after the received its 30 000km service where the valves was checked and spark plugs was replaced.
Were any valve shims replaced to adjust any out of spec clearances? I wonder if anything was overlooked when they performed the service...
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-30-2010, 06:46 AM
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I wonder if anything was overlooked when they performed the service...
Take it back to the guy who did the 30K service job. RPM needle should hold steady otherwise something is not right or could be as what INVADER has said..
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-30-2010, 11:31 AM
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Hi Goku,

Probably the speedometer cable.

Does the needle vibrate at idle? and do you feel any small bike rpm change when the needle vibrates?

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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-30-2010, 11:57 AM
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Guys,

1) There is no speedo cable. It is electronic
2) I don't see how a "speedo cable" would affect the tach.
3) There is no tach cable either.

The problem is probably electrical. Maybe a loose/bad connection somewhere. It could also reflect an ignition problem of some kind. A vibration could be some kind of ignition miss, which could explain the tach needle vibrating.
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-30-2010, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies.

Shims was not changed but he said that the exhaust valves were on its limit. HSfarber I was also thinking the same thing about loose connection thus I tried checking all the connectors but found it fine.

You also mention ignition and now I'm thinking it might be a bad plug as the plugs were replaced. The extra vibrations (though minor) I'm feeling feels consistant with the needle vibrating.

I really hope they didn't stuff my bike up
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-30-2010, 01:40 PM
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start okay? Idle well? Milage changed?

did he touch the throttles bodies and not telling?? - if not right , always a fav for rougher running, athough normally shows up at idle too. TPS knocked another possibilty? Vac pipe loose?

Ex valves can be tight on these, but should make no odds if he;s not changed shims. I'd Keep a close eye on those though.
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-01-2010, 06:07 AM Thread Starter
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It starts first time everytime and idles fine. The plugs was replaced on the 30 000km service.

By touching the throttle bodies do you mean by taking it off ? I don't know if he did as it was suppose to be a straight forward service.
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-01-2010, 08:42 AM
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from my experience with this engine i believe its the oil level in your crank case.check the quality and the quantity very carefully.happend to me once i had less oil (about 1.6 lt) and the rev needle was missreading.the mechanism under the front sprocket nut is responsible for the rev indicator,check if any screws are not well tight in there also.maybe you changed chain and sprockets in this seervice?
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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-01-2010, 10:21 AM
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from my experience with this engine i believe its the oil level in your crank case.check the quality and the quantity very carefully.happend to me once i had less oil (about 1.6 lt) and the rev needle was missreading.the mechanism under the front sprocket nut is responsible for the rev indicator,check if any screws are not well tight in there also.maybe you changed chain and sprockets in this seervice?
naz
1.6L total or after oil change? but your saying yours was losing pressure/crank starvation and/or partitally seizing = vibration? - or was because of the loose pickup?

"By touching the throttle bodies do you mean by taking it off" - No, by trying to synch the vacuum.
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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-01-2010, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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Well he didn't mention anything regarding vacuum sync so I'm not to sure.

NAZ isn't the mechanism by the sprocket you refering to is the speedo sensor ? Well they did clean the chain and relubbed it. He still complimented me on being on 30 000km with the oem chain and sprocket still looking good.
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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-01-2010, 11:43 AM
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30000 kms on the original chain?! Check if its tension varies as you turn the wheel. If so, it would cause a vibration, especially if they tightened it. Is the vibration speed related, or strictly engine revolutions related?
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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-01-2010, 12:20 PM
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Well he didn't mention anything regarding vacuum sync so I'm not to sure.

NAZ isn't the mechanism by the sprocket you refering to is the speedo sensor ? Well they did clean the chain and relubbed it. He still complimented me on being on 30 000km with the oem chain and sprocket still looking good.
yes this mechanism by the pinion sprocket is responsible for the rev needle.if you unscrew the 2 nuts(very easy task) just check if there are foreign parts like grease oil or concrete .


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the 2 small pieces i show you with red trigers a piezoelectric diode and transfer the pulse to the ecu.This mechanism is vital for the bike and you should be very cautious with sprays,oils etc....if they spray oil to death in the piezo electric diode you may have issues.open it and check it.also it should be very clean as in this photo i borrowed from a versys comrade in our forum

Last edited by naz; 05-01-2010 at 12:33 PM.
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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-01-2010, 07:01 PM
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If you determine its an electronic problem not mechanical and the needle is fluctuating, as opposed to vibrating up and down with shake. Its a sign that the alternator is starting to go out.

Unusual, but its happened to me on another bike.

If alternator needle goes to zero and bike is running-it means alternator has failed and battery is not charging. Unless you disconnect the headlight, you'll run the battery down and be stranded very quickly.

If you keep the revs up (by sound-I know you won't be able to see it on the tach) it is possible to keep the bike going, but once it dies-you are done.
The way to confirm this, is rev the bike from idle, if your headlight brightens even a tad you are good. If headlight stays the same or starts to look dim, its running directly from the battery. If you are directly on the battery avoid using any volt, don't indicate, don't stay on the brakes (LED brake lights don't take much, but every volt helps get you home.)

Very infrequent problem, caused by the alternator brushes getting dirty, happens if you run in dusty areas or lots of dirt roads.

As others have pointed out there is no speedo or tach cable and it would have to be vibrating really badly to upset the tach needle-if its vibrating that bad you'll risk damaging the engine.

Machog


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post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-01-2010, 07:01 PM
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yes this mechanism by the pinion sprocket is responsible for the rev needle... the 2 small pieces i show you with red trigers a piezoelectric diode and transfer the pulse to the ecu
No. You're referring to the speed sensor, for the speedometer and odometer/tripmeters. Your 2 red arrows show the speed sensor's upper alignment pin, and the casing's lower alignment pin bore.
Tachometer relies on the crankshaft sensor's signal. It sits under the timing rotor.

Last edited by invader; 05-02-2010 at 02:21 AM.
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post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-02-2010, 12:32 AM
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check the chain,
my tach was kinda glitchy a bit last year, and it was definitly due to uneven chain tension. Changed the chain, and now it's golden
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post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-02-2010, 11:16 PM
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Two day ago, slaphead90 from the UK Versys forum:
"Whilst traveling to work yesterday I noticed my rev counter needle was bouncing more than usual,
then 1 mile later needle and black base was sitting at the bottom of the unit!
Doh is this an easy fix? or as usual costly main dealer part only?"

Last edited by invader; 05-18-2010 at 12:51 PM.
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post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-02-2010, 11:43 PM
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No. You're referring to the speed sensor, for the speedometer and odometer/tripmeters. Your 2 red arrows show the speed sensor's upper alignment pin, and the casing's lower alignment pin bore.
Tachometer relies on the crankshaft sensor's signal. It sits under the timing rotor.
Invader;

When yo say; tach relies on cranshaft sensor signal, are you refering to some kind of Inductive RPM sensor that picks up the rotational speed of the crankshaft or any Hall sensors/ Hall Effect vane switch. Where does the v pick up is RPM signals and what kind of sensor does the V uses.

Thanks in advance Guru.
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post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 05-03-2010, 12:53 AM
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Crankshaft sensor has no power source. It's mounted beneath timing rotor which is on the end of crankshaft, and is accessible from under the clutch cover. Its positive and negative leads connect to ECU. Tachometer signal is then related from the ECU. A tachometer input frequency input of approximately 133.3 Hz indicates about 4000 rpm.
Crankshaft Sensor Peak Voltage: 1.9 V or more.
Crankshaft Sensor Resistance: 376 - 564 Ω.
If there is more resistance than the specified value, the crankshaft sensor's coil has an open lead. Much less resistance means the crankshaft sensor's coil is shorted.

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