'15 Versys 650 maintenance questions - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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'15 Versys 650 maintenance questions

Hello everyone, new to the forum here and eagerly waiting to pick up my '15 Versys LT this coming Saturday. I have a few questions regarding maintenance.

First Questions surround Oil & Oil Changes.... I plan on doing all of the oil changes myself right from the start.

1. Recon' the oil filter part# for the '15 remains the same as the prev model years?

2. I live in Florida and therefore never experience temps below 30*. Due to high temps and occasionally getting stuck in 30+ minutes of stop-go traffic, I'm considering running 20W-50 synthetic... Any thoughts on this?

3. For no particular reason I have always used Mobile 1 full synth. in all my bikes and cars. The 20w-50 synth appears to suggest use in the air cooled V-twin type bikes and not so much for sport/water cooled counter parts.

LINK >>HERE<<

Any thoughts on this? Is the v-twin 20w-50 fine for the V?


Competing Schools of Thought Questions...

So here are the annoying questions that have been debated for as long as the internal combustion engine has been around... I don't expect much clarification but figured i'd ask regarless...

WARM-UP: Some people let the bike idle while they put their gear on and then take off at normal operation... Other's seem to hop on and immediatly drive, just keeping rps low until warm...

BREAK-IN: So we have 2 competing, polar opposite break-in strategies...

There's the "MOTO METHOD" : AKA Flog it method...<source1> <source2>

There's the"OWNERS MANUAL" : Slow and low method...
0-500 miles, RPM below 4K
500-1k miles, RPM below 6K
"Do not start moving or race the engine immediately after starting it, even if the engine is already warm. Run the engine for two or three minutes at idle speed to give the oil a chance to work up into all the engine parts."
And finally, custom hybrids in-between the two.

My thoughts on Break-in: I think the majority of break-in is already done by arrival, I find it strange the manual doesn't seem to warn against constant rpm driving and feel there may be some weight to the "conspiracy" that the "low and slow" break in exists only to protect new riders on a new bike that they aren't familiar with yet...


Thoughts?

Last edited by Apollo12227; 04-05-2015 at 10:32 AM.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 10:36 AM
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thats vtwin oil for a harley.... aka leaking oil... its only good to leak on the road




na just kidding... if that the kinda oil you wanna run run it... i run http://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-...-Case/19514358 in my versys and cheap car oil in my bobber

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 10:38 AM
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Hello everyone, new to the forum here and eagerly waiting to pick up my '15 Versys LT this coming Saturday. I have a few questions regarding maintenance.

First Questions surround Oil & Oil Changes.... I plan on doing all of the oil changes myself right from the start.

1. Recon' the oil filter part# for the '15 remains the same as the prev model years?

2. I live in Florida and therefore never experience temps below 30*. Due to high temps and occasionally getting stuck in 30+ minutes of stop-go traffic, I'm considering running 20W-50 synthetic... Any thoughts on this? Yeah, I live in South Texas, about the same climate. I use Mobil 1 15w50 in the KLRs but went with Rotella T6 in the Versys because the Versys doesn't have a roller crank.

3. For no particular reason I have always used Mobile 1 full synth. in all my bikes and cars. The 20w-50 synth appears to suggest use in the air cooled V-twin type bikes and not so much for sport/water cooled counter parts. The Mobil 1 motorcycle specific comes in two flavors 10w40 and 20w50. Pick the one you like. Both will work.

LINK >>HERE<<

Any thoughts on this? Is the v-twin 20w-50 fine for the V?


Competing Schools of Thought Questions...

So here are the annoying questions that have been debated for as long as the internal combustion engine has been around... I don't expect much clarification but figured i'd ask regarless...

WARM-UP: Some people let the bike idle while they put their gear on and then take off at normal operation... Other's seem to hop on and immediatly drive, just keeping rps low until warm... I let the bike idle for about 30 seconds and the ride off keeping the rpms below 4k for the first 5 miles.
BREAK-IN: So we have 2 competing, polar opposite break-in strategies... There's the "MOTO METHOD" : <source1> <source2>
There's the"OWNERS MANUAL" :
0-500 miles, RPM below 4K
500-1k miles, RPM below 6K
"Do not start moving or race the engine immediately after starting it, even if the engine is already warm. Run the engine for two or three minutes at idle speed to give the oil a chance to work up into all the engine parts."
And finally, custom hybrids in-between the two.

My thoughts on Break-in: I think the majority of break-in is already done by arrival, I find it strange the manual doesn't seem to warn against constant rpm driving and feel there may be some weight to the "conspiracy" that the "low and slow" break in exists only to protect new riders on a new bike that they aren't familiar with yet...


Thoughts? I used be be old school and easy break-in. Last few bikes and cars have been Motoman. Motoman is the way to go.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apollo12227 View Post
First Questions surround Oil & Oil Changes.... I plan on doing all of the oil changes myself right from the start.

1. Recon' the oil filter part# for the '15 remains the same as the prev model years?...
Yes....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Apollo12227 View Post
2. I live in Florida and therefore never experience temps below 30*. Due to high temps and occasionally getting stuck in 30+ minutes of stop-go traffic, I'm considering running 20W-50 synthetic... Any thoughts on this?
I would follow the "Motoman" break-in w/ an oil/ filter change at 50 miles; another at 500 and at 1,000; then go to Mobil1.

I personally use (and HAVE for years...) Mobil1 CAR synth in 15w-50 WHEN I can find it, 10w-40 when I CAN'T.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Apollo12227 View Post
3. For no particular reason I have always used Mobile 1 full synth. in all my bikes and cars. The 20w-50 synth appears to suggest use in the air cooled V-twin type bikes and not so much for sport/water cooled counter parts.

Any thoughts on this? Is the v-twin 20w-50 fine for the V?
Won't hurt EXCEPT your V MIGHT begin thinking it's a H-D....

See what I use in post above.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Apollo12227 View Post
...Some people let the bike idle while they put their gear on and then take off at normal operation... Other's seem to hop on and immediatly drive, just keeping rps low until warm....
I start it, put it into gear, then ride off, keeping engine-demand low for awhile as it warms up. One of my Vs has 57,xxx miles, t'other 52,xxx kms....


Ed
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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Yes....



I would follow the "Motoman" break-in w/ an oil/ filter change at 50 miles; another at 500 and at 1,000; then go to Mobil1.

I personally use (and HAVE for years...) Mobil1 CAR synth in 15w-50 WHEN I can find it, 10w-40 when I CAN'T.



Won't hurt EXCEPT your V MIGHT begin thinking it's a H-D....

See what I use in post above.



I start it, put it into gear, then ride off, keeping engine-demand low for awhile as it warms up. One of my Vs has 57,xxx miles, t'other 52,xxx kms....

Thank you for the info! Helps quite a bit actually. I'm not one to move from bike to bike. I'll have this thing till it blows up! Hoping to break 75-100K miles.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 06:42 PM
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Thank you for the info! Helps quite a bit actually. I'm not one to move from bike to bike. I'll have this thing till it blows up! Hoping to break 75-100K miles.

So you just want a short timer huh? Take care and you'll see that and more.

Or was that look THEN leap?
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-07-2015, 11:36 PM
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I personally use (and HAVE for years...) Mobil1 CAR synth in 15w-50 WHEN I can find it, 10w-40 when I CAN'T.

I had only 2 quarts of Honda Synthetic 10w-40 in the garage, so I bought the best I could find, Mobil 1 syn 15w-50 for cars. Unless I'm misinterpreting the acronym CAR for 'automobile', I assume with all those miles it's just fine to run that then.. It DID seem quite a bit thinner than the Honda 4 stroke oil..

Also, the manual says no chemical additives, so lucas oil is no go?


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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-07-2015, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by waltermitty View Post
Hello everyone, new to the forum here and eagerly waiting to pick up my '15 Versys LT this coming Saturday. I have a few questions regarding maintenance.



First Questions surround Oil & Oil Changes.... I plan on doing all of the oil changes myself right from the start.



1. Recon' the oil filter part# for the '15 remains the same as the prev model years?



2. I live in Florida and therefore never experience temps below 30*. Due to high temps and occasionally getting stuck in 30+ minutes of stop-go traffic, I'm considering running 20W-50 synthetic... Any thoughts on this? Yeah, I live in South Texas, about the same climate. I use Mobil 1 15w50 in the KLRs but went with Rotella T6 in the Versys because the Versys doesn't have a roller crank.



3. For no particular reason I have always used Mobile 1 full synth. in all my bikes and cars. The 20w-50 synth appears to suggest use in the air cooled V-twin type bikes and not so much for sport/water cooled counter parts. The Mobil 1 motorcycle specific comes in two flavors 10w40 and 20w50. Pick the one you like. Both will work.

V-twins can be watercooled also. Use the oil that best matches your use and climate. I have used mobile one in my cycles and my cars for years and I've never had a problem with either. That's why I keep using it – if it ain't broke don't fix it.



LINK >>HERE<<



Any thoughts on this? Is the v-twin 20w-50 fine for the V?





Competing Schools of Thought Questions...



So here are the annoying questions that have been debated for as long as the internal combustion engine has been around... I don't expect much clarification but figured i'd ask regarless...



WARM-UP: Some people let the bike idle while they put their gear on and then take off at normal operation... Other's seem to hop on and immediatly drive, just keeping rps low until warm... I let the bike idle for about 30 seconds and the ride off keeping the rpms below 4k for the first 5 miles.

BREAK-IN: So we have 2 competing, polar opposite break-in strategies... There's the "MOTO METHOD" : <source1> <source2>

There's the"OWNERS MANUAL" :

0-500 miles, RPM below 4K

500-1k miles, RPM below 6K

"Do not start moving or race the engine immediately after starting it, even if the engine is already warm. Run the engine for two or three minutes at idle speed to give the oil a chance to work up into all the engine parts."

And finally, custom hybrids in-between the two.



My thoughts on Break-in: I think the majority of break-in is already done by arrival, I find it strange the manual doesn't seem to warn against constant rpm driving and feel there may be some weight to the "conspiracy" that the "low and slow" break in exists only to protect new riders on a new bike that they aren't familiar with yet...





Thoughts? I used be be old school and easy break-in. Last few bikes and cars have been Motoman. Motoman is the way to go.




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...Unless I'm misinterpreting the acronym CAR for 'automobile'....
I'm going to TRY to always write "Mobil1 AUTOMOBILE etc" from now on....


Ed
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2015, 01:40 PM
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I'm going to TRY to always write "Mobil1 AUTOMOBILE etc" from now on....




Don't wear your fingers out typing automobile. Car should be fine!


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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2015, 01:40 PM
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I would think your dealer would require you to do the first warranty oil change service to validate it. I KNOW it's BS, and just a way to get you to spend $200 for nothing, but IF something were to go wrong within the first year......


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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-10-2015, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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I would think your dealer would require you to do the first warranty oil change service to validate it. I KNOW it's BS, and just a way to get you to spend $200 for nothing, but IF something were to go wrong within the first year......
I was thinking that too, however, from what I'm reading in terms of laws aroudn warranties... Dealerships cannot "require" you to go through them as part of a warranty UNLESS they provide the required service free of charge.

I'll hunt down the name of the law but I think i'm covered... I may just call Kawasaki directly and talk with them about it.
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