Chain Question - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 08:13 AM Thread Starter
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Chain Question

2900 miles on my V and no chain adjustment necessary. I kind of expected adj. to be needed on a new chain. Too many years on a shaft drive I guess, so I don't have a feel for what may be correct. I lube the chain every 500-600 miles and I am a bit anal on maintenance. So keep me on the straight and narrow guys
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by BEACHBUM View Post
2900 miles on my V and no chain adjustment necessary. I kind of expected adj. to be needed on a new chain. Too many years on a shaft drive I guess, so I don't have a feel for what may be correct. I lube the chain every 500-600 miles and I am a bit anal on maintenance. So keep me on the straight and narrow guys
Contrary to popular belief, chains don't stretch. Their internal bushings wear. As that wear takes place the chain gets longer as there is slop between each bushing and its pin.

There is no magical number of miles chains need cleaned or adjusted. If you ride like a stop light bandit and ride in rainy, dusty, muddy conditions, the chain may require maintenance more frequently. If you ride moderately, on good pavement on nice days it will probably require maintenance less frequently. The manual is there to give you a nice interval of time to have a look. You can get a decent measure of its need for adjustment with a little finger pressure. Too loose is better than too tight and as chains wear, they will get looser. You can also see if it needs a bath.

I haven't had a chain bike in awhile. I really like the idea of this new Teflon based spray. A chain doesn't need oil. All the roller action is sealed internal to the links. The idea is to keep the gunk from working its way into said links. Teflon seems like a perfect product for the job.

From what I've read, Kerosene appear to be the best solvent to clean the chain as it has minimal chemical reaction with a chain's spongy bits.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 09:08 AM
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A chain does need oil. I would oil the chain a little more often. You can even measure the difference between an oiled chain and a dry chain on the dyno, typically 1 - 2 hp.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 09:11 AM
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Good quality chain will need less adjustment. The good ones are high strength and some claimed to be prestretched.

Maintain it and it will last.
Just keep checking chain tension and sprocket wear.

Over maintenance is better than less maintenance.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by waltermitty View Post
A chain does need oil.
Please explain. Remember, we are not talking about bicycle chains here, we are talking about O or X ring chains that seal the roller pin's lubrication internal to the bushing. Since oil can't penetrate that seal, what is the point?

Now I won't contest the usefulness of something like a Scottoiler as if nothing else, the oil will grab the gunk and fling it off with the oil. It's a messy way to do things, but that at least makes sense. Much of what is on the market is senseless. Specifically, this tacky stuff that prevents fling off. Instead, it's a fly trap for road gunk.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 09:44 AM
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Pro Oiler > Scottoiler :P
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Gigitt View Post
Over maintenance is better than less maintenance.
True that.

Just be careful of wax type lubes, I use Maxima myself. BUT too much will make a big mess and it'll spray all over the place, I use a piece of cardboard stuck between the tire and swingarm to keep it under control. It will also build up in the front sprocket cover so clean that out from time to time. I also lube the chain after a ride so the chain is warm.

I have about 17,000 on my KLRs current drive line and I don't think I've adjusted the chain more than 2-3 time, including set up. You want to check for not just how tight/loose it is but that it's aligned so there's no side load in the chain. You can do this with a tape measure, the string method or one of these little tools.

I got it from Motion Pro Tools and it easy to use and was fairly cheap.

Revzilla sell it for under $14.00

http://www.revzilla.com/product/moti...alignment-tool


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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by saddlebag View Post
Please explain. Remember, we are not talking about bicycle chains here, we are talking about O or X ring chains that seal the roller pin's lubrication internal to the bushing. Since oil can't penetrate that seal, what is the point?

Now I won't contest the usefulness of something like a Scottoiler as if nothing else, the oil will grab the gunk and fling it off with the oil. It's a messy way to do things, but that at least makes sense. Much of what is on the market is senseless. Specifically, this tacky stuff that prevents fling off. Instead, it's a fly trap for road gunk.
The pins are permanently lubed but not the rollers. I use 90wt gear oil on my chains but manually and in the bikes I have Scottoilers on. The Scottoilers are messy but effective.

A friend recently made the trip to Ushuaia on a KLR equipped with a Scottoiler. He didn't need to adjust the chain once. Most of the folks he met along the way were on their second or third set of chain/sprockets.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by waltermitty View Post
The pins are permanently lubed but not the rollers.
The part I assume you are calling a roller is a cover that sits over the link. The link rotates around the pin. Whether that cover moves with respect to the link seems immaterial for chain function.

Here's a pic that may help clarify what we are talking about.

Xring.jpg
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 10:05 AM
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Had 22,000 miles on the bike when i sold it I only adjusted the chain twice while i owned it,They say they adjusted it at the 600 miles service???? and it might have needed adjustment when i put 2 sets of tires on it.

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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by saddlebag View Post
The part I assume you are calling a roller is a cover that sits over the link. The link rotates around the pin. Whether that cover moves with respect to the link seems immaterial for chain function.

Here's a pic that may help clarify what we are talking about.

Attachment 61938
Put a few chains on and you will understand. The part that contacts the chain that I have referred to as the roller does move and it not permanently lubed like the pin.
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by waltermitty View Post
Put a few chains on and you will understand. The part that contacts the chain that I have referred to as the roller does move and it not permanently lubed like the pin.
I've put more than a few on, just not in the last decade or so...
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 10:30 AM
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My mom used to hate it when I would cook my chains on the stove.
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, good info. I can assure you there will be over maintenance, maybe a little ocd going on. Thanks for the info on Maxima. I have already noticed the rear sprocket covered with the stuff, had not thought of the front.Gotta check. As far as lube frequency goes, how often do you think? My biggest concern is blowing sand n the road.
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 11:11 AM
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My mom used to hate it when I would cook my chains on the stove.
Can't say I blame her. The smell of burnt Orings in the morning just doesn't sound as appetizing as bacon.
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 11:15 AM
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Can't say I blame her. The smell of burnt Orings in the morning just doesn't sound as appetizing as bacon.
This was long before O-rings.
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 11:47 AM
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This was long before O-rings.
Should we change your name the Gramps Mitty?

I remember doing that with bicycle chains in a double boiler and paraffin wax. Had a guy almost burn down the dorm once because he used a single pot and the wax caught fire.


You can clean the excess wax off the bike with Go-Jo and water. Works better than anything for this I have found and doesn't hurt the finish at all.

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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-05-2015, 04:38 PM
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...I remember doing that with bicycle chains in a double boiler and paraffin wax. Had a guy almost burn down the dorm once because he used a single pot and the wax caught fire. ....
Here's a link to MY chain experience:

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ad.php?t=74962

and, back-in-the-day, when most bike mags were from England - they always wrote that we should "do" our chains in 'paraffin'.

Some years later I learned that what the Brits call 'paraffin', we call KEROSENE!!!

Ed
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-06-2015, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
back-in-the-day, when most bike mags were from England - they always wrote that we should "do" our chains in 'paraffin'.

Some years later I learned that what the Brits call 'paraffin', we call KEROSENE!!!
Hmm, Ed, I think that paraffin is a wax and kerosene is the same as diesel fuel, but maybe I'm wrong.

I thought that I was wrong once, but I was mistaken!
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-06-2015, 04:20 PM
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Hmm, Ed, I think that paraffin is a wax and kerosene is the same as diesel fuel, but maybe I'm wrong....
Well - they CERTAINLY are, here in North America...!


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