Kawasaki Special tool Rotor holder - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2015, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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Kawasaki Special tool Rotor holder

Hi, I have been searching online for the rotor holder (part number 57001-1658) and could only find what seems to be a newer version of that tool (part number 57001-1672)

Do you know if the 57001-1672 fits on a versys generator rotor (2009 model)?

I also tried a strap wrench to hold the rotor but no luck. Perhaps the rotor bolt have to be unscrewed clockwise. Unfortunately the repair manual is not specific about this

Any help is appreciated.
Thx!

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2015, 07:57 PM
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You need that $300 tool? Are you only replacing your stator?
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-23-2015, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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No. I am rather after the one-way clutch. I have the engine startup failure issue, which is happening when the one-way clutch is getting worn (bike is at +50k kilometers).

The problem symptoms are when you fire the engine, there is a strange noise and the engine does not start - it will start on a second attempt but the problem is occurring more and more often.

So I have to remove the flywheel to replace the one-way clutch.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-23-2015, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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For the record, I finally got the rotor bolt off.

The bolt is unscrewing on the counter-clockwise direction (a regular bolt).

I bough a decent strap wrench at my local carquest store today for 32$ + **** load of taxes. The wrench is a Lesle part number 28500. Still a lot cheaper than the original kawasaki rotor holder and more interestingly it can be reused for something else

Here how the setup looked like when I finally succeeded unscrewing the rotor bolt



I had to use a pipe extension and more importantly an hexagonal socket recommended for impact wrench - a cheap socket can scrap the bolt head.

Next step: I tried an M35 puller I ordered a few weeks ago to remove the flywheel and it was not the right size - an M38 is required

Anyhow, I now see the light at the end of the tunnel!

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-23-2015, 11:29 PM
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Cool.... The Lisle 28500 tool is plenty strong with its reinforced rubber belt?

http://www.mechanicstoolsandbits.com...ch-p-2886.html

Did you get a Motion Pro M38 puller?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Motion-Pro-Fl...cb18e6&vxp=mtr

Last edited by invader; 03-23-2015 at 11:40 PM.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 07:37 AM
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The wealth of knowledge on this forum never fails to amaze me. Just curious, could you use an impact gun to remove that bolt?
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 08:08 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by invader View Post
Cool.... The Lisle 28500 tool is plenty strong with its reinforced rubber belt?

http://www.mechanicstoolsandbits.com...ch-p-2886.html

Did you get a Motion Pro M38 puller?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Motion-Pro-Fl...cb18e6&vxp=mtr
Yes the Lesle belt is pretty strong and sticky. It did'nt slide, stretch or bend while I applied torque (about 110lbs/foot). @ 15$ it is pretty cheap. Note that it is a plastic wrench, I would have prefer a metal wrench but could'nt fine any around.

Thx for the M38 puller link, that seems a reasonable price (however still a couple of weeks waiting to get that to the door here in Quebec)

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Last edited by burnedstar; 03-24-2015 at 08:16 AM.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-24-2015, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by redden68 View Post
The wealth of knowledge on this forum never fails to amaze me. Just curious, could you use an impact gun to remove that bolt?
I asked the question to a mechanic and he told me the torque is too high for an impact wrench. They end up using a pipe extension for those situations. But assume an impact wrench has enough torque, I wonder if that could end up demagnetizing the flywheel, that's apparently what happens when you knock on an magnetized part. A new fly wheel is 400$+ so I would rather not take a chance.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-02-2015, 01:41 PM Thread Starter
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I received the flywheel puller today.

Here the setup with the puller:



It was not too hard to remove, I received the tool at 12:30, got the flywheel off at 1pm

After math, I saved a few hundred dollars using after market tools rather than Kawasaki special tools.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-02-2015, 07:07 PM
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Nice documentation. Thank you for the information. What kind of noise did you hear? I am at 37k miles on mine and some days I have to hit the starter twice.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-08-2015, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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Something similar to an hammer noise.

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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-08-2015, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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I went forward disassembling the one way clutch and I was quite puzzled. It looked almost like the one I just bought with very little signs of wear and it was still working as expected



So I took no chances and reassambled the rotor with the newest clutch, but what I observed is wear marks with rough edges on the side of the engine:



I put the gear in place and spin it manually and I would think that was the real problem - I could clearly hear and feel the gear hitting the edges. I used a file to soften the edges and reassembled the whole thing.



I started the engine a few times since and I did not encounter the problem. Most likely I bought the one way clutch a little too early.

I am consider adding a thin spacer washer like the one used between the one way clutch and the rotor to avoid the gear and the motor side wall to touch each other.

So that was it - a winter project that was way too long to my taste
I'll report again if the problem comes back.

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