Clutch won't disengage - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch won't disengage

Hello,

I've been a lurker for some time... since i have found answers to all of my questions except this...

I decided to lube my chain and change the oil today. I put the bike on a rear stand and after lubing the chain i decided to run it in 1st with the wheel off the ground to let the lube penetrate and spread (fingers and body far away), However i noticed that when i pull the clutch lever in, the wheel does not stop moving, even with some friction on the wheel, it keeps spinning pretty strongly. Is this normal? I have adjusted clutch cable to the proper spacing... I have noticed that it is somewhat of a chore to walk the bike backwards in first but since this is my first bike, I just got used to it.

Thanks,
-Shaun
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010, 06:13 PM
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Check that the clutch cable is properly adjusted - slack, no binding, etc.. Search the forum for "clutch cable" or clutch adjustment" if you are not sure how to do it.


Gustavo


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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010, 07:27 PM
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If you check the clutch cable and it's good, keep in mind that there's always going to be a little drag on that wet clutch.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010, 07:59 PM
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Yeah, it is normal. Power is still being transmitted with the disengaged clutch by oil drag from the engine oil between the seperated but close clutch friction plates and metal plates.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies.
I did adjust the clutch cable and loosened some of the hangers that were squeezing the clutch cable which made the clutch smoother. I tried shifting into first while holding the back tire (not releasing the lever) and I felt it fighting to move to the point where I had to let go pretty fast.
I am pretty sure it isnt supposed to be that strong when disengaged.
I also noticed the chain sort of jumping sporadically (only in first and idle, gets better after 3k rpm).

edit: I think I found the problem was the idle was set too high, I set it down some and it doesn't fight too much anymore, however the chain hopping still exists. Would this be caused by the chain being too tight?

Last edited by pockchicken; 04-08-2010 at 09:23 PM.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010, 10:45 PM
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So idle is now set to specified 1300 rpm? How's your chain slack? See if the slack varies as you turn the wheel, as it might be worn (stretched) unevenly like mine did during break-in. I replaced my original chain at 2600 miles, but they normally last up to about 15000 to 20000 miles..
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Invader,

It seems you are spot on, the slack does vary, from what i can measure, I can get it to just 5/8 inch of play and then to 1 and 5/8 inch of play with a full turn of the wheel.
The manual says to spin the wheel until the chain has least play for measuring the tightness but makes no mention of the different amounts of play being an issue...
So I guess I'll research chains.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 12:13 AM
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Yup. You'll need new sprockets too to go with the new chain... I replaced the stock EK 520 MVXL X-ring chain with a lighter DID 520 VM (8050 lbs tensile strength, 3.35 lbs per 100 link) 120 link X-ring gold chain, cut down to 114 links.
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