Seized(Corroded) Gas Cap Lock - Help! - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
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Seized(Corroded) Gas Cap Lock - Help!

The tank lock(Gas cap) of my bike has seized. It basically is a powdery white color now, and I can only get my key 3/4 of the way in. It definitely will not turn in any way. I have tried the following to alleviate it, in order performed.

1) Jiggling the key inside. When I started, I could only get my key half-way in but after enough jiggling I was able to get it to 3/4.
2) Jiggling the key with WD40 on it. I have also run an oil moistened key up and down into the lock for at least 1 hour of time, each time cleaning it off.
3) Soaking in WD40 - overall, I've sprayed half a can of WD40 into the lock. I have flooded it, I have sprayed some in and let sit for several days, etc.
3a) Soaking with 3 and 1 oil
4) Cleaning out the lock with very fine wire. I got alot of white crud out, but still couldn't get the key in.
5) Hammering the key into the lock. No dice.

I am at the end of things I can possibly do. Nearest Kaw dealership is 50 miles, I have less than reserve left in the tank so riding it is not possible. I do not own a truck/trailer.

My question is this.
What are my next steps? I can't take the cap off without unlocking it... the "tounge" from the lock prevents that. I guess I can order a new tank and lock from Kawasaki, but that seems a bit overkill. What about drilling out the lock? Has anyone ever done it ? Is it possible?
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 06:22 PM
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If all else fails and you can't bring the bike to the dealer mabey just take the tank off and bring that to the dealer. did you try your spare key?
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by glowcat13 View Post
If all else fails and you can't bring the bike to the dealer mabey just take the tank off and bring that to the dealer. did you try your spare key?
Yeah, spare key has same effect. I didn't think of taking the tank to the dealer - that's a good idea.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 06:47 PM
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hopefully someone has a better fix and it won't come to that though.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 06:58 PM
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can you just remove the 5 hex bolts and remove the whole cap ?
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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can you just remove the 5 hex bolts and remove the whole cap ?
Not possible. If the cap is locked the "tounge" off the lock will stay in the tank, keeping the cap from being removed. Already tried.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 09:02 PM
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I just sprayed some penetrating oil with molycote into my lock after reading your post.
I was going to suggest what was previously said, and you are right, gas cap is designed to be pushed closed with a small amount of give in the upper cap assembly. So if you manage to get the key to the point of turning clockwise, pressing down on the black portion of the cap will release tension / drag on the locking tabs of the cap, allowing the key to turn easier. As to getting the key in you may be screwed, never drive a key in under force, one trick is to take a piece of hardwood, like a small hammer handle , tap the edge of the key while putting slight vertical force on the key, this is the same thing thieves use to break in . The idea is to get the pins to bounce.The other option is to see if a lock smith can pull the lock cylinder, I would be asking a Kawasaki dealer this first.
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-03-2010, 02:04 PM
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I had the same thing...sort of. Tried opening my cap to check fuel for first ride of the year and key would not turn. Sprayed all the snake oil I had in the shop into and around the tumbler, no success. Started rapping on cap with the hard plastic handle of a screw driver and she opened. Everything looked fine inside and in the cap locking tabs. WTF????
Good luck!
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-03-2010, 07:16 PM
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Surprised that it didn't free up after soaking with WD40 and leaving it overnight. No good for now, but I lube my gas lock (and the other two locks) almost as often as I lube my chain (every 300 miles or so).
When you get it working again, try this stuff;


You can get it at Lowes, (not HD) great on chains and locks.

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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 08:54 AM
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When you do manage to get it free I recommend cleaning it thoroughly with alcohol or something that won't leave a residue and then using powdered graphite to lubricate it.
Oil and silicone lubricants will just attract dust and cause the lock to fail again.
I bought some graphite powder from the hardware store when my gas and ignition locks started exibiting symptoms like you are describing, not as bad obviously, and they immediately started turning smooth as glass after squeezing a puff of graphite into each lock.
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 09:49 AM
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It is possible there is a piece of debris lodge down in there?

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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 01:52 PM
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siezed gas cap

On my bike the lock was not seized. It is stored in a heated garage all winter.
The gas cap lock tabs hook under a sheet metal lip in the filler neck. It seems to me that the sheet metal reacted with the dissimilar metal of the locking tabs and formed a little corrosion bond. Could be the fuel preservative I used..who knows? But rapping on the cap is what released the bond.
Rod
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by wl650klr View Post
On my bike the lock was not seized. It is stored in a heated garage all winter.
The gas cap lock tabs hook under a sheet metal lip in the filler neck. It seems to me that the sheet metal reacted with the dissimilar metal of the locking tabs and formed a little corrosion bond. Could be the fuel preservative I used..who knows? But rapping on the cap is what released the bond.
Rod
Could it be when riding the gas splashes up into the locking mechanism and that is whats causes the corrosion.
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010, 05:51 AM
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Have noticed that after a wash, there is water that is trapped between the space of the petrol cap.
I would be good to wipe it dry. Maybe it's the reason why the petrol tank lock is seizing up. Plus,if opening the cap, noticed this water flows into the petrol tank.

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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-08-2010, 09:08 AM
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Lubricants

Conventional wisdom usually calls for graphite in lock mechanisms because it doesn’t freeze, doesn’t attract dirt and lubricates (duh), however most lock cylinders are (inherently corrosion resistant) brass...

I’ve seen a couple of posts now where folks are reporting `white crud’ in the V’s lock cylinders. That sounds like aluminum oxide (aluminum rust) and if that is the case, it’d be a better idea to use something that also displaces moisture & protects.

The best general purpose lubricants that I have found which also clean and protect are “Tri-Flow” and ”Break-Free CLP”. I’ve been using them both for many years now in countless applications and the stuff never ceases to amaze me.

As soon as I got my new V home, I checked for oil leaks & tire pressures and lubed the lock cylinders. Just a couple of drops in each... and then slide the key up & down a few times...

http://break-free.com

http://www.triflowlubricants.com

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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 04-09-2010, 12:29 PM
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This may be a stupid thought or even possible but would it not be possible to remove the tank, tip it over and remove the petrol pump. Maybe if you lucky you should be able to push the 2 holdings pins back or just assist the key while turning it ?
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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 06-09-2010, 10:01 AM
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Same thing happened to me. I tried driving it to the dealership, but ran out of gas about 1/4 mile short so they came and picked me up. The mechanic eventually drilled out the lock cylinder and replaced it and the ignition cylinder. Now, here I am a year later and the corrosion is back, though, I caught it just before it seized so maybe I can clean it out.
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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-08-2014, 04:36 PM
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... replying more than three years later...

This happened to me yesterday. I stopped to refuel, and the key would go only 4/5 of the way into the fuel cap lock. There was white gunk around the lock, under the protective flap.

I had enough fuel to ride home, where I sprayed carburetor cleaner into the keyhole. That worked. Carb cleaner is potent stuff. I followed up with liberal spraying of WD-40 into the keyhole. But still, it takes more effort to turn the lock, and to close the cap and lock it, than it did when new.

I think this happened because I tried lubricating the keyhole with a waxy chain lube. Mistake.

I park the bike outside at work every day, and it rains frequently especially in summer, so I have to keep that fuel cap lock lubricated.

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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-08-2014, 07:21 PM
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... replying more than three years later...


I park the bike outside at work every day, and it rains frequently especially in summer, so I have to keep that fuel cap lock lubricated.
Or you could get one of these off of e-bay for about $35.00 and never have to worry about a key in the fuel cap again.
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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-08-2014, 09:16 PM
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Or you could get one of these off of e-bay for about $35.00 and never have to worry about a key in the fuel cap again.
Ditto........

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