ABS / Disconnecting/ ON/OFF switch / Discussion - Page 2 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #21 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-06-2016, 10:26 PM
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Update; From the Dealer service department, which was, by the way, very reluctant to offer this conclusion as it is against company policy to dick with the bike as it sits....

If you remove the ABS fuses under the seat, it will disable the ABS feature. HOWEVER, it will also throw a fault code and the ABS will REMAIN disabled, even if you put the fuses back in. The fault code can only be cleared by the dealers ECU reader and, if under warranty, the documented fault code might void any warranty claim having to do with the braking system or service related issues related to the braking system.

So, it still looks like removing the sensors are the right solution although I am not clear on whether that throws a fault code and whether or not the fault light goes out when the sensors are re inserted....
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post #22 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-07-2016, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by afineride View Post
...
So, it still looks like removing the sensors are the right solution although I am not clear on whether that throws a fault code...
YES it does register a fault code, as I wrote earlier.
THAT's why I ask about the no-mod rear tire slipping, which I think you are ready to see answered...
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post #23 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-07-2016, 07:34 PM
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YES it does register a fault code, as I wrote earlier.
:
Yes, but I didn't see if you addressed the fault code fix. If the code fixed itself when you re[laced the sensor then, it wouldn't be so bad. But if the light still indicates a faulty ABS, that's not so good. ...that's all I'm saying.

At this point, I'm just going to remove the rear sensor, tape it and zip it out of the way..
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post #24 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-09-2016, 07:41 PM
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I believe the sensor uses magnetic sensing of the alternating metal/air passing by. Placing a thin piece of tin like from a tuna can between the sensor and ABS ring on the wheel should theoretically prevent the sensors from detecting any wheel rotation.

There is a sensor in the transmission somewhere sensing the speed of the output shaft. Idk if a code would be thrown when the system detected no tire rotation when the transmission was turning. If no code would be thrown, this is a pretty simple way to disable the ABS. Slip small tin covers over the ABS sensors. Just be sure they're secured well.
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post #25 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-12-2016, 09:16 PM
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I really like your use of the hazard lights switch. Great idea. I'll be doing this mod shortly.
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post #26 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 05:46 AM
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I really like your use of the hazard lights switch. Great idea. I'll be doing this mod shortly.
please post details and pictures
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post #27 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 06:52 AM
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please post details and pictures
Will do. Let me try and organize the pictures first I'll get them up in a few days. It starts with this...
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post #28 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 08:02 AM
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Got to be the Green / Tear Bike Apart Syndrome

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Originally Posted by afineride View Post
Will do. Let me try and organize the pictures first I'll get them up in a few days. It starts with this...
Ah someone else with a bike lift, looks well used. I am interested in what is mounted , upper left side, looks like a possible compressor for a air horn?
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post #29 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 10:09 AM
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Sensor Connector / Fuse ID

So I had a look, FYI to get at the rear sensor plug, you need to remove the plastic piece on the right, single Allen head cap screw, this screw has a unusually long spacer, what I found was the screw was so tight I thought I was going to round out the Allen key , when it came time to put together I realized the tube spacer is too long, hence the over tightening, I removed it and added a rubber washer and a small amount of loctite.

The fuses are ID as 25 amp ABSMOT which stands for motor and 15 amp ABSVAL which stands for valve relay.

The way I see it, the only way is as Invader suggested , switch the rear sensor. What I have found is the red wire is a positive feed from the ABS system, before I go any further I need a male and female Bosch socket / plug/connector, that matches the sensor. I have several ideas, one on the line of the starter solenoid and high beam light in combination with the emergency flasher.

Pulling fuses isn't a option, as I want the front ABS working. Also no taping into anything, no male and female connectors ==hands off!

Below are pictures of the connectors that say Bosch on them
Attached Images
File Type: jpg brake sensor #1.jpg (30.8 KB, 255 views)
File Type: jpg brake sensor #2.jpg (33.2 KB, 237 views)
File Type: jpg 9165c214-c4b5-4451-9222-a4dbf03571f8 brake sensor #3.jpg (29.7 KB, 237 views)

Last edited by onewizard; 04-13-2016 at 10:35 AM.
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post #30 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 07:34 PM
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Ah someone else with a bike lift, looks well used. I am interested in what is mounted , upper left side, looks like a possible compressor for a air horn?
Good eyes. It IS the air horn. All one unit. Made by WOLO. Nice and loud so I can scare the hell out of the senior citizens falling asleep at the wheel or the idiots on their cell phones drifting lanes....
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post #31 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 10:32 PM
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ABS Disable Rear Only

I see your solution, you are assuming the rating of the emergency flasher is 15 amp. Your circuit disables the whole ABS system.

I already have a plan, using relay logic, two SP relays to trigger the disable rear sensor relay, using the right and left turn signals as a "AND" gated switch. A double pole double throw relay used to disable the rear sensor, reset using the high beam headlight . The disable relay coil ground is connected to the positive terminal of the high beam headlight, one NO contact is a latch circuit once triggered, the instant the high beam comes on the relay drops out, the N.C. contact of one pole is what is connected in series to the rear sensor.
I have the Newark part numbers, altogether $20.

I still need those male and female connectors.
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post #32 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 01:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
I see your solution, you are assuming the rating of the emergency flasher is 15 amp. Your circuit disables the whole ABS system.

I already have a plan, using relay logic, two SP relays to trigger the disable rear sensor relay, using the right and left turn signals as a "AND" gated switch. A double pole double throw relay used to disable the rear sensor, reset using the high beam headlight . The disable relay coil ground is connected to the positive terminal of the high beam headlight, one NO contact is a latch circuit once triggered, the instant the high beam comes on the relay drops out, the N.C. contact of one pole is what is connected in series to the rear sensor.
I have the Newark part numbers, altogether $20.

I still need those male and female connectors.
Excellent point regarding rating of flasher. I'm now thinking about wiring the hazard light switch to a pair of rigid industries DOT fog lights with 2.29 amp draw. Do you think that is safe enough? What do you need for connectors? One Headlight and two turn signal pairs? I am looking forward to understanding your wizard plan.
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post #33 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 05:27 AM
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Connectors

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Originally Posted by IAMRA View Post
Excellent point regarding rating of flasher. I'm now thinking about wiring the hazard light switch to a pair of rigid industries DOT fog lights with 2.29 amp draw. Do you think that is safe enough? What do you need for connectors? One Headlight and two turn signal pairs? I am looking forward to understanding your wizard plan.
male and female Bosch as pictured for the rear ABS sensor---I like the idea of turn signal, but I am old school and can splice and solder almost anything, yes in the future I may start using a patch cable with proper male and female connectors. My first will be the ABS sensor.
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post #34 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
I see your solution, you are assuming the rating of the emergency flasher is 15 amp. Your circuit disables the whole ABS system.

.
Uhh...yes. That's what I wanted. What part of the ABS system would I still want to be working when I turn it off?
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post #35 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
male and female Bosch as pictured for the rear ABS sensor---I like the idea of turn signal, but I am old school and can splice and solder almost anything, yes in the future I may start using a patch cable with proper male and female connectors. My first will be the ABS sensor.
Those connectors seem difficult to source. Alibaba has Male and Female with 500 pieces min order. UK seller on Ebay has just the Females.
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detai...435861247.html
Bosch ABS Speed Sensor Connector Loom Side | eBay
Do you think these are the correct connectors?
Anyone have any idea who else sells these?
I am going to send emails to Cycle Terminals and Eastern Beaver.
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post #36 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 06:21 PM
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ABS partial Disable

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Originally Posted by afineride View Post
Uhh...yes. That's what I wanted. What part of the ABS system would I still want to be working when I turn it off?
Since tomorrow will be my first ride, I am dependent on what I hear. My understanding is that when engine braking / braking on gravel, the ABS fires both front and back brake, or is it just the wheel that has broken traction?
Since you have gone to great efforts to disable yours, could you explain the reasons for , and how it improves your ride.
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post #37 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IAMRA View Post
Those connectors seem difficult to source. Alibaba has Male and Female with 500 pieces min order. UK seller on Ebay has just the Females.
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detai...435861247.html
Bosch ABS Speed Sensor Connector Loom Side | eBay
Do you think these are the correct connectors?
Anyone have any idea who else sells these?
I am going to send emails to Cycle Terminals and Eastern Beaver.
holy crap, are they gold plated?
Supply and demand, someone must sell these real cheap.
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post #38 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 08:28 PM
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Since tomorrow will be my first ride, I am dependent on what I hear. My understanding is that when engine braking / braking on gravel, the ABS fires both front and back brake, or is it just the wheel that has broken traction?
Since you have gone to great efforts to disable yours, could you explain the reasons for , and how it improves your ride.
Well, I am no engineer so I will explain it as I understand it;

ABS prevents your wheels from locking up during braking. This allows you to maintain directional control. When driving on a solid surface, this helps you maintain traction and steer the vehicle.

When you are riding on gravel or other loose or soft (sand) surfaces, you may not necessarily want the wheels to continue rolling. Imagine braking in order avoid a tree or the edge of a cliff. Imagine the wheels continuing to roll because the ABS prevents you from intentionally applying the desired amount of braking power, to include intentionally locking up the wheels.

When riding on gravel, your tires are essentially riding on marbles. Somewhere underneath those marbles the substrate becomes more "solid". By locking up the brakes, your force the wheels/tires to dig in, creating a burrow which helps you actually stop the bike. Same thing is true in sand.

We're not talking about engine braking. We are talking about the use of hand/foot mechanical braking.

Trail braking, (applying slight braking at the rear wheel) allow you to control speed without altering, to a significant amount, the attitude of the motorcycle. But with ABS on, and loose substrate, it gets a harder to even trail brake because the wheel wants to continue rolling.

Again, disabling ABS allow you more control of the braking mannerisms of the bike. If what I have told you wasn't true, manufacturers of some of the best Dual Sport Bikes in the world would not include switchable ABS on their bikes. By design, Dual Sport bikes travel both on paved and unpaved surfaces.

And... before everyone starts bashing me be reminding me that the Versys is NOT a Dual Sport bike...I will agree. It's not. However, it has some characteristics that, with minor mods (tires, etc.,) allow it to navigate uncomplicated hard packed dirt and gravel which SOME riders would like to take advantage of without having to buy a true Dual Sport bike.

So, I am sure there will be some members here who will chime in about the technical accuracy of my explanation and they will, in some manner, be correct. But, I tried to tell you what time it is without telling you how the watch is made.

Hope this helps.

Last edited by afineride; 04-14-2016 at 08:41 PM.
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post #39 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-15-2016, 08:24 AM
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Abs

Thank You
ABS has been around a long time, a good driver can get by 90% without it, however on black ice and you can't see it, a whole different story. First time I drove a ABS fitted service truck I almost piled into a conveyor in a gravel pit. I had several wheel sensors fail and a complete ABS module, all $$$$$$$$.
So before I do anything I plan on riding it and finding out for myself. Normally with ABS and ice, you hit the brakes as hard as possible to stop fast. On gravel or sand you sure don't want to do that and I see there should be a simple override .
I am pretty sure I can use my original idea but apply it to the ABS solenoid fuse.
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post #40 of 60 (permalink) Old 04-16-2016, 04:18 PM
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Glen - you just GOTTA get out there, OFF the pavement...!


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