Versys doesn't hold a charge - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-19-2015, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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Versys doesn't hold a charge

Winter time here in northern Michigan so bikes are parked, I've got 2 KLR650s in addition to the 2013 Versys. Even at low temps the KLRs are easy starters and seem for the most part to be holding charges. This Versys seems to be running down the battery in a matter of a couple weeks. I've added a disconnect lead that I can hook up to a battery tender, and it seems to recharge the battery overnight. But wondering if there is something in the wiring system on this FI bike that continues to draw current even when shut off and parked? I am rotating the tender from bike to bike.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-19-2015, 11:05 PM
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cold kills batteries that are untended
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-19-2015, 11:22 PM
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You have the original regulator/rectifier on it? Any electrical accessories added to it at all?

Current draw with ignition off can be measured by connecting an ammeter inline to the battery.

Quote:
Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
I have a 07 bike bought in 08, original battery and 16,000 KM---------not a good idea to jump start and ride, reason being, the charge rate should be low, same as a battery tender, usually 1 amp or less. The Versys will put out 10 to 12 amp charge on a dead battery, that usually cooks the battery, you then are low on fluids and have limited capacity.
I would check the battery first, however you could also have regulator problems. Best to have a fully charged battery, disconnect the easiest battery terminal and connect a ammeter in series, should have less than 5 milliamp. If you have 30 or more milliamp, try unplugging the regulator, if it goes away you need to follow the manual for testing the regulator.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-20-2015, 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by invader View Post
You have the original regulator/rectifier on it? Any electrical accessories added to it at all?

Current draw with ignition off can be measured by connecting an ammeter inline to the battery.
Yes, connect an ammeter in series with either the negative or positive battery lead. If you notice a current draw over say 10 mA (test a known good bike of the same type to get an exact mA reading), start pulling fuses or disconnecting electrical items to find the fault. Don't forget things like stator and regulator rectifier connections as mentioned above.
Some batteries are faulty and just won't hold a charge,if you can't find any excessive current draw fit a new battery.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-20-2015, 06:42 AM
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I had similar problems with my versys. I left it unattended and un-tendered for months at a time. At first I was willing to replace dead, neglected batteries from time to time but after the third dead battery I switched to a LiPo battery. That was three years ago and I haven't had another battery issue. I dont use a tender, I just balance charge the LiPo once a year when I get the bike out and prepped for the season. There is an extensive discussion thread on ADV Rider that hashes out all of the details: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...t=LiPo+battery Enjoy

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-20-2015, 07:22 AM
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My 2011 has never been on a tender. Starts up fine even after sitting for a month to 6 weeks. When I do ride, it is always at least 20 miles above 4000 RPMs which helps keep it charged up.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-20-2015, 08:59 AM
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How old is the battery? It just may be at the end of it's useful life. Remove from bike, charge fully, leave for a few weeks them test voltage.
I just noticed that the bike is a 2013, but I'd still test the battery first.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-20-2015, 11:45 AM
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There's a small parasitic draw for the clock. Your dead battery is typically a sign your alternator and regulated/rectifier are cooked. But since the bike is new, I'd guess you have a sub-par battery. Test it. If it's good, keep it on a smart charger all the time. My battery's 7 years old and still good. I will probably replace it this summer though.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-20-2015, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TR Versys View Post
There's a small parasitic draw for the clock. Your dead battery is typically a sign your alternator and regulated/rectifier are cooked. But since the bike is new, I'd guess you have a sub-par battery. Test it. If it's good, keep it on a smart charger all the time. My battery's 7 years old and still good. I will probably replace it this summer though.
FWIW - I replaced the battery on my '08 in October (six years and 53,xxx miles since bought) because of the AZ BDR ride I was planning w/ jdrocks, for no other reason than that I didn't want to find it NOT starting in some gnarly, out-of-the-way place.

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-20-2015, 01:07 PM
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I recall testing the parasite draw; found it to be around 23 milliamps. That's about 11.6 amp hours after three weeks, which will impact a small battery - good condition or not.

I keep my battery on a tender (Sears 2amp smart-charger) when it's not being used. My 09V has 20,000 miles, and is still on the original battery - with never a problem.

Last edited by ScottyNeal; 01-20-2015 at 01:18 PM.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-20-2015, 01:26 PM
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First, I definitely agree on testing your current battery. Sounds like a dud to me.

Second, battery tenders are awesome. Besides my versys I also have a 2008 CBR1000RR. The CBR has a tiny battery for weight savings (Honda puts the same battery in little scooters as they put in the big, high compression CBR). I'm extra hard on the batteries as I'm also a year round commuter so I run electric jacket and gloves a lot (probably never allowing the bike's charging system to top up the battery). I've been doing about a battery per year on this bike. The yuasa in this size (YTZ7S) is pricey. Last year I bought a cheap battery from walmart along with a battery tender jr. The two things were about $50-60 combined, $40 less than just getting the yuasa. The combo is working better than the yuasa along - I've had fewer issues with the tended cheapo battery than with an untended yuasa. I also tried a LiPO but it would not start the CBR in winter, even following the "warm up" procedure. That battery ended up in a TTR125, where it fits perfectly.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-20-2015, 03:43 PM
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Tenders are cheap and easy. Throw a piggy back on the battery and it takes 5 seconds to snap a tender on/off the bike. I mostly ride MX so the V is sitting on the tender ready to fire when I'm unable to haul to track. Very happy with it.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-20-2015, 09:49 PM
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I like that so many people have different 'fixes' for this battery issue that work for them. Kind of the same way different Versys owners set up what were at sometime identical bikes! I think this is a attribute of the Versys more so than some other bikes.

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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-22-2015, 06:05 PM
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you may want to look into getting a Shorai battery. You won't believe how light it is and it might be the last battery you buy. not cheap, but there's some peace of mind there.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-23-2015, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomla View Post
you may want to look into getting a Shorai battery. You won't believe how light it is and it might be the last battery you buy. not cheap, but there's some peace of mind there.
Unless it gets cold where you live in which case it might not start your bike in winter.
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