automatic chain oiler - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010, 11:53 PM Thread Starter
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automatic chain oiler

is anyone using a loobman (or a scottoiler) on their versys? i'm looking for mounting ideas.
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-23-2010, 01:28 AM
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Try the UK forum.
Versys.UK
They are mad over there about Scotoiler and there is quite a few mounting instructions and tips.
It's seems like a nice setup but expensive.


Cheers.
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-23-2010, 04:59 AM
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A friend did this for his V.


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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-23-2010, 09:31 AM
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Using Acumen Automatic Oiler. See image, Acumen is installed just under the seat. You will be able to see the Oil Refill Can. Easy to use and cost ..yes/no depends on your call. Each refill can last from 2000Km to 4500km depending on your dose setting. cost of refill USD10

have to be wired to speed sensor so need someone with good wiring background. system cost about USD 200max, can be cheaper!
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-23-2010, 09:42 AM
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What would one be oiling on a sealed o-ring chain???
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-23-2010, 10:24 AM
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It is mostly lube. They still rust. Personally I bought a spool lift stand and a 5.00 can of premium chain lube. This way I can raise the rear tire, adjust the chain and lube it. 10 minutes.
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-23-2010, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by jcctx View Post
What would one be oiling on a sealed o-ring chain???
Not that I am an expert in chain mechanics but an o-ring chain still exposes at least one face of the o-ring to the environment. By keeping that portion of the o-ring oiled you extend the life and reduce wear on the both the sprocket and the chain. The loobman is a cheap alternative to more expensive systems, costs about $30. With the propoer set up you can easily extend the life of a chain to 30,000 miles.

Dan
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-23-2010, 11:21 AM
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I originally installed a 'Loobman' onto my Bandit and KLR, but then converted them to powered by using a 12v windshield washer pump through a "momentarily ON" switch so it pumped while the switch was held ON, then went to OFF when released.
They worked OK, but there're aspects of the 'Loobman' that leave something to be desired, so ultimately I removed it from the KLR (sold the Bandit) and went to using WD40 ONLY (remember - you DON'T lube an O-ring chain; you lube the O-rings so they don't 'gall' and stick to the sideplates, ripping them and letting the lube out). I changed out my ORIGINAL KLR chain at 54,000 kms - 33,400 miles - in Whitehorse on last summer's Alaskan adventure.
The "V" chain has had NOTHING but WD40 on it since new (13,600 miles), and it's been adjusted a TOTAL of 6 'flats' on the adjusters (1 turn)!

Ed
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-23-2010, 04:06 PM
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+1 on WD40. I've been using it on my dirt bikes since 2002 when I first got a bike with an O-ring chain. Every lube I have ever seen attracts dirt/dust and makes a real mess of everything. WD40 keeps everything very clean and dry. I apply it before almost every ride/race. Helps repel mud and water as well. And I apply it after I was the bike to keep the chain from rusting.

Mike
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-23-2010, 06:15 PM
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I had a Loobman but it took too much adjusting on the chain after just a bit of use, so I didn't use it for a long time. Then I just redid it by using the same bottle and tube that ran between two foam paint brushes that rub against the top of my chain. Now my chain is ALWAYS clean and lubed. I just use WD40 and since the lube is constant, it works very well for me through the last 10,000 or so miles.
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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-23-2010, 08:25 PM
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+1 on WD40. I've been using it on my dirt bikes since 2002 when I first got a bike with an O-ring chain. Every lube I have ever seen attracts dirt/dust and makes a real mess of everything. WD40 keeps everything very clean and dry. I apply it before almost every ride/race. Helps repel mud and water as well. And I apply it after I was the bike to keep the chain from rusting.

Mike
Let me get this straight. You don't have to use chain lube? Just wd40?

How do you clean the chain? I use chain cleaner and then lube it every 2 weeks. And every week I have to try to clean the black spots off my rear wheel from the chain lube.
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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-23-2010, 09:48 PM
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No I don't use any chain lube. If you ever get any chain lube on your hands it feels more like glue than lube. Everything sticks to it, making a real mess of things. And it is a bugger to get off once it gets a bit of dirt and grime sticking to it.

When I wash the bike I use a mild degreaser like Simple Green on the chain and rinse (not high pressure) it off, then I wipe it dry and spray the chain with WD40. Wipe the excess off with a rag and you're ready to go. The WD40 repels water and cleans the muck off. It'll look clean and shinny. The chain stays surprisingly clean and is much easier to keep clean. My thought is a clean chain will last longer. I have herd people say that the WD40 isn't good for the rubber o-rings, but I have never had a problem. And it seems a few others here agree.

Usually the night before a race/ride I will spray the chain again and wipe off. Till the next day most of the carrier in the WD40 has evaporated, leaving a pretty dry chain that has a thin coating of protection. It doesn't attract mud and dirt, and doesn't make a mess on the wheels, sprockets and whatever. I do this very often, pretty much every ride on my dirt bikes. Street bikes require much less love.

Mike
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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-24-2010, 07:31 PM
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Thanks windwalker. I think I'm going to try this.

I commute on my bike every day rain or shine so it's hard keeping my chain clean. Also it's a pain in the ass trying to clean my aluminum wheels from all the lube.
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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-24-2010, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by rumbo75 View Post
Let me get this straight. You don't have to use chain lube? Just wd40?

How do you clean the chain? I use chain cleaner and then lube it every 2 weeks. And every week I have to try to clean the black spots off my rear wheel from the chain lube.
Spray the WD40 on, spin the tire, then use a rag to remove excess from the chain.

Clean AND lubed...!

Ed
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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-24-2010, 11:31 PM
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Has anybody used “Tri-Flow” or “Break Free” on a chain?

I’ve used them both for years in countless other applications and they’re good cleaners, they penetrate well, protect well and lubricate amazingly well (far better than WD40).

What I don’t know is how well they’d hold up to the centrifugal force of running around a sprocket...

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post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 12:40 AM
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Do automatic oilers produce more fling off on the rear wheels? Webbikeworld gave great reviews to this dry chain lube. Unfortunately I cannot find a place to buy it.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motor...n-chain-saver/

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post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 07:14 AM
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Using a Scottoiler. Using cheap 80W90 gear oil as recommended by DID.
It does fling out and makes the rim messy.

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post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 07:40 AM
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I received my new Rider magazine Monday and thay have a good article and tests of all the chain oilers.
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post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-25-2010, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twowheels View Post
Do automatic oilers produce more fling off on the rear wheels? Webbikeworld gave great reviews to this dry chain lube. Unfortunately I cannot find a place to buy it.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motor...n-chain-saver/
Not actually, as you can control the drop/km and reduce flingings. The rim does get a bit messy after a few rides. somewhere along the line you need to compromise between what you want..Dry chain clean rim. wet chain messy rim.Wet chain long life, dry chain short life. The objective is to remove friction and heat, nothing else.
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post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-27-2010, 09:02 AM
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Scottoiler installation on Versys

Here is a picture of my underseat installation, using a Scottoiler "Lube-Tube" large reservoir so you can mount the control unit horizontal. You can't normally do this as the open vent in the lid must be upwards.
Cant fault it. I have used them for over 20 years.

Ted.
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File Type: jpg Scottoiler + reservoir+ GPS power-supply+ sprocket-lock.JPG (146.5 KB, 866 views)
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