Need basic help installing grip warmers - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-17-2010, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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Need basic help installing grip warmers

Just got these from AeroStich. I always get a bit nervous when having to do any sort of electrical work. I want to install these on something that is is interrupted by the ignition switch so I don't drain my battery. Like my picture shows, I believe I can twist one wire from each grip together and then ground those to the horn. I don't know where the other three wires should be tapped into and if they can be twisted together and then spliced in to a turn signal hot lead, or.....???? Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-17-2010, 10:53 AM
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One common option would be the license plate light. I've actually run a relayed terminal block on my SV to run the heated grips, GPS, aux lights and other goodies, and was told that's a good one to pick because of the low load and not a big deal to find and tap from. It's a little extra wire to run, but... Also, maybe off of the running lights since the V has them? Don't know if they're always on or not though.
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-17-2010, 01:49 PM
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You look to be on the right track, but I don't recommend tying into the turn signal.

Wiring: Tie together one wire from each grip and tie that into a ground (frame, negative terminal on battery, or most black wires). Tie the remaining two leads from each grip along with the center wire of the switch lead together and this will go to an always on, fused source (typically fust leading to positive terminal of battery, headlight, taillight, license plate light, etc.).

The best way to do this is get a 12V automotive relay and tie that into the switched lead (usually pin 87) of the relay, and run the other switched lead (usually pin 30) into a fuse that runs through a fuse to the positive terminal of the battery. Tap into the taillight or headlight lead (positive, red) and run this to the coil of the relay (usually in 86). ground the other end of the switch (85) (attach to .

Another option is to just tie the switch lead from the grip warmers to a switched, fused lead such as the headlight or taillight but I don't particularly like that setup because you may overload that circuit.

The attached image shows the typical lead numbers for the relay. (Very rough and ugly sketch, but hopefully it helps.)
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-17-2010, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, that sounds great (installing a relay), but you lost me when you started talking about pins! There's got to be an easy way for me to get this done. I do like the idea of a relay though....
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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-17-2010, 02:22 PM
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By "pins", he means the little tabs coming off of the relay. Each one has a number next to it. (30, 85, 86, 87, sometimes an 87A as well)

As long as you take your time, work slowly, and don't use those obnoxious little "clip-loc" type connections, wiring an accessory isn't very hard. Often getting the bodywork back on without dropping a bolt or clip and loosing it is harder than the wiring. Use mechanical terminls or solder joints wih heat shrink tubing whenever possible instead of the clip-loc things.

If I can get the driveway cleared quickly enough, I'll post up how I id my terminal block. wasn't hard at all. Or go to Canyonchasers, I used their directions.

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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-21-2010, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I'm going to go buy all the stuff to install the relay and block today. If I get a 6-block, does that mean I can use it to power 6 things?? I can't see ever needed more than 3 powered items (cell phone charger, heated grips and maybe an outlet for a heated vest or something....). Thanks.
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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-21-2010, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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Got the wire, quick connects, relay and a 4-block. I did not see any "jumper blocks" but I did purchase a fuse block, which I think, should be fine instead of an inline fuse, right? It has 6 30A fuses. It's a bt big, but I think I can find somewhere to put it under the seat....
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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-21-2010, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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Going off the CanyonChasers tutorial, I think maybe my "jumper plate" is already built-in to my junction box. Here's what they say to do, but look at my picture attached and please let me know if it appears that it is built-in or do I need to go back and buy a jumper plate??

From the tutorial:Take your distribution block (Dual Pair Block), the part with all the little screws in the top of it, and the jumper, the metal plate. The jumper will connect half of the poles together by fastening it underneath half of the screws on the distribution block, this is so half of your block will be positive and the other half, with the help of the other half of the jumper, will be negative. You may have to cut the jumper in half or purchase two smaller jumpers.


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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-21-2010, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Oh, and if I'm tapping off the rear license plate light, is it the red wire or the black/yellow wire I want to tap into? I'm assuming red....
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-21-2010, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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Here's what I have...Just waiting to hear back from one of you guys regarding if I need a jumper block or what.....Thanks.
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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-21-2010, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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Is there not an accessory port already under the seat that we can tap into? I see two extra connections under my seat that are not used. One is a massive bundle of wires that is taped off at the end with tape, and the other is that connector that is tucked under the fairing (under the seat, right side if sitting on the bike for both of these)......What are they for?
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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-21-2010, 02:58 PM
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Yeah, you'll need jumpers. Here's a few pics from the Canyon chasers install on my SV

How the jumpers work.





Still debating on hardwiring the TotmTom to the SV, or letting it sit in the file cabinet until I get a V. Or pricing a second Ram mount and powerclip. Hope this helps
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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-21-2010, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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Aarrgghh!!! Nobody here at AutoZone has any idea what a "jumper plate" is! Is there another name or another wayto get what I need?
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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-21-2010, 03:36 PM
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Radio shack.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103227

$2.17 for an 8 block long strip
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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-21-2010, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. So with the distribution block I bought, I'll be able to hook up 3 accessories, is that correct? Also, just picked up an inline fuse holder. Says 30A MAx on it, but I'm assuming I can use a 10A or 20A right?
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post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-21-2010, 03:56 PM
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Correct, 6 items if each is only single use. I've seen people run more then one low draw item (cell phone and such) to a terminal, but I've always stuck with one per screw. Its a sport bike, not a Gold Wing. And yes, you can put a lower amp fuse in there, it's listed as 30 being the largest you can put in safely. Don't forget to get a spare and toss it in your tool kit.
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post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-21-2010, 05:37 PM Thread Starter
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What about the license plate light wires....tap into the red or the black with yellow stripes?
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post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-21-2010, 06:01 PM
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I have no idea about Kawasaki's wiring protocols, my suzuki has brown and gray/black for the plate light. Anyone here have a wiring diagram for a V?
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post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-21-2010, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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It was the red...Did some searches on the forum. so the relay and block w/inline fuse is all good to go. Bike starts up, license plate light works, no smoke, etc....!! No for the second half of this...Trying to figure out how to attach the grip warmer wires. I'm assuming there wil be two wires, and one will go to the neg side of the distribution block and the other one will go to the pos. side of the block....?
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post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old 02-21-2010, 06:42 PM
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yup. Quick hint I wish I would have known about before I installed my heated grips. Put bullet clips on the leads before they go off to the grips. That way if one burns out, or you need to pull the bars off, or whatever, you can simply unplug the grips from the main wiring. My throttle side heat quit working in November, and I need to replace it.
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