Tire alignment...a little issue - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-13-2014, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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Tire alignment...a little issue

Okay, so aligning my tires using the string method. I'm about 5mm off from center, but I can't seem to get that last 5. Every time I tighten the rear axle, the block on the right side of the bike(brake side) slides back a tad and throws it off.



You can barely see the gap, but it keeps showing up.

It seems like the axle won't let the blocks stay where I put them, so there's not much I can do. Even with pressure in that rear gap while tightening, it still separates. I may try clamping it in place, but I'm wondering if anyone has a trick they've come up with.


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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-13-2014, 07:26 PM
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Start by tightening the axle nut so that you are moving against resistance when adjusting the alignment. You want the adjuster bolt pretty hard to turn. Then when you torque it down the axle won't move.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-13-2014, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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Thats pretty much where I got, but I did a bit more and it seemed to help. I ended up jamming a wratchet handle into the adjustment channel and the block to keep it in place and it seemed to hold it (mostly). Next time I adjust the chain I'll just have to do it on the chain side with very minimal loosening of the axle bolt.

The chain is a tad too tight, so that should happen relatively soon if it doesn't blow first.

Well, not that tight...but only 1.125" of deflection at the shortest point.

We shall see....

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-14-2014, 02:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waltermitty View Post
Start by tightening the axle nut so that you are moving against resistance when adjusting the alignment. You want the adjuster bolt pretty hard to turn. Then when you torque it down the axle won't move.
Um... this might wear out the Adjustment bolt threads of the Aluminium swingarm.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-14-2014, 03:07 AM
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Yeah, I can see what your problem is. Your rear brake caliper is not bolted up in its holder (mount) holes, and the front bolt is held back by it. Why had you unbolted it? Hopefully, I caught it before you rode off that way... I like your new stainless steel adjuster bolt and nut.

http://shop.sw-motech.com/cosmoshop/..._zusatz_20.jpg

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-14-2014, 07:56 AM Thread Starter
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Brake was off to pull out the tire. Not sure if that was completely necessary, but I did it. It didn't hold anything back, from what I could tell...pretty loose on there. I had the same problem last time I did alignment, too. I'm still just a tad off, but pretty damn close. Maybe like 2mm. Might have to sand the block down or something to get the angle right. Maybe next adjustment...

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-14-2014, 01:08 PM
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I think the rear brake caliper holder can only move ahead so much, and your caliper mount's front screw (bolt) is up against it... Have you tried it again with your caliper properly mounted?
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-14-2014, 05:17 PM
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Try putting the plastic handle of a screwdriver between the chain and the sprocket and turning the wheel forward. This will put forward tension on the wheel and keep it against those bolt "blocks" or whatever you call them
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-14-2014, 07:15 PM
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There's no forcing anything. Start by installing your rear brake caliper as it should.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-14-2014, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
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Invader,

I had it off in the pics, but I have made this adjustment (EDIT: with the caliper in place)and run into the same issue.

It still has the issue with them properly installed and torqued. Maybe alignment was off from the factory and caused the block to be deformed to the point of making the bolt head recede into it. It's close enough for me, and I doubt it will end up causing a ton of premature wear.

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-18-2014, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lacucaracha View Post
Okay, so aligning my tires using the string method. I'm about 5mm off from center, but I can't seem to get that last 5. Every time I tighten the rear axle, the block on the right side of the bike(brake side) slides back a tad and throws it off.

You can barely see the gap, but it keeps showing up.

It seems like the axle won't let the blocks stay where I put them, so there's not much I can do. Even with pressure in that rear gap while tightening, it still separates. I may try clamping it in place, but I'm wondering if anyone has a trick they've come up with.
I ALWAYS stick a screwdriver between the chain and rear sprocket, then turn the wheel till it's REALLY lodged in there, then tighten the axle, and remove it.

THAT will stop your problem!

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-18-2014, 08:38 PM
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lacucaracha

You seem to be struggling a lot for this operation, even with all those nice and helpfull suggestion by reader

Did you consider that something might be VERY MUCH out of wak ?


My 2 cents


LOP

BTW Love your avatar and nick !
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-18-2014, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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I was thinking that. Worst case scenario, the blocks are deformed or reversed somehow. I'm pretty sure they're both the same, but haven't tried the switch. I don't think anything is too majorly off- especially if I could get the adjustment to within 2-3mm without really getting creative in order to hold the clock against the bolt.

Hell, it's way better than it was from the factory.

I'm going to get one of the motion pro alignment tools to make sure I'm not crazy. I got 5000 miles with about 1000 more to go on the stock tires so it can't be all that far off.

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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-18-2014, 10:15 PM
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When I pulled my back wheel off to put new Sprockets and chain. I took the alignment blocks off, cleaned them then marked them which is L-Top and R-Top. That way I can keep the blocks on the correct side and original orientation. I also cleaned the swing arm pockets thoroughly.

Maybe there is some grit or gravel trapped in the swing arm pocket then the alignment block slides in that is making the block slide easier back and forth when you tighten the Axel nut.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-18-2014, 11:04 PM
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http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0048/.

To get the wheeel true centre try using a chain aligment tool. I dont use the original markers as they are a rough guide only and not true to the last mm.

Using the chain aligment tool i find i dont have disc rubbing and chain travel is much smooth. (just my humble thought.)
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