Inlet Air Pressure Sensor - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-11-2014, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Inlet Air Pressure Sensor

After recently having some work done which involved tank removal I've had my FI light come on a couple of times. Always under hard acceleration, and always only until I let off the juice. I did the FI reading, and it comes back telling me the issue is Inlet Air Pressure Sensor. Any advice before I take it back to the shop? I'd love to try to sort it out myself, as I suspect it's just something they didn't fully reconnect and don't feel like trying to get them to repair for free since it'd be hard to prove it was something they did (and possibly is not)...


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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-11-2014, 07:44 PM
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Cant find the exploded view, but the diagram says its a yellow wire from the ecu and a black/brown wire from "waterproof joint e". Maybe follow those wires and see what you find. But probably going to need to take stuff apart
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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-11-2014, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah- been reading up. Sounds very much like something that might happen when a vacuum sync is being done. Which was part of the most recent service. I'll give them a call tomorrow and see what they say. They're usually pretty cool.


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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-11-2014, 10:03 PM
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Inlet air pressure sensor is ontop of the airbox on RHS. there is an electrical connector on RHS they may have forgotten to re-connect as it always get pushed down when putting the airbox in.

to see if that is the problem you have to remove the side panels and tank.
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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-11-2014, 10:29 PM
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Sensor on the airbox is the inlet air temperature sensor. Inlet air pressure sensor is not normally disconnected. Check to make sure the IAP sensor vacuum hose is good and snug on sensor and on left TB's outer (left) fitting, and that there is a rubber cap on each TB's vacuum access fitting.

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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-11-2014, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
Sensor on the airbox is the air temperature sensor. Inlet air pressure sensor is not normally disconnected. Check to make sure the IAP sensor vacuum hose is good and snug on sensor and on left TB's outer (left) fitting, and that there is a rubber cap on each TB's vacuum access fitting.
Invader is right again... I was talking about the temp sensor.
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-11-2014, 10:36 PM
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Inlet air temperature sensor, to be specific... There is also a water temperatrure sensor.
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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-12-2014, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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I called him this morning and told him what I'd found. He wants me to bring it in so he can look at it. I'm reticent to get hit with another labor bill for him to fix it. Might be able to take the tank off this weekend and see if everything is snug. The fact that it only comes on when being really jammed on, and that it goes off right as throttle is decreased makes me suspect that tube is less than secure over something like a disconnected wire which, I would think, not clear immediately as an F.I...

Will report back


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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-12-2014, 03:03 PM
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Which trouble code number did you retrieve?
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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-12-2014, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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Which trouble code number did you retrieve?
12 from FI memory, as it's only ever been on for 1-2 seconds at a time, and only high in rpms being pushed hard.


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post #11 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-12-2014, 05:41 PM
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That's strange. You're sure it's # 12? It runs fine otherwise? Connector, hose, and caps all seem to be in place?
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post #12 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-12-2014, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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That's strange. You're sure it's # 12? It runs fine otherwise? Connector, hose, and caps all seem to be in place?
Definitely 12. I shot a video while i was doing it to make sure I could take my time with it. One long and two short. Repeat. Besides that she's running just fine. I did notice after the vacuum sync that the low rpm engine note is more growly, almost like in decel, but past that haven't noticed anything else. I haven't been able to take the tank off yet. That will be a project for the weekend in garage. I'm really hoping it's just a poorly reconnected hose. Also pretty pissed that I have to take the tank off for something that started during a shop service, is directly involved in the work done, etc etc. Hopefully I can sort it out.


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post #13 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-12-2014, 07:56 PM
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Can't you see the front of your throttle bodies, where the IAP sensor hose hooks up on the left TB's left fitting, and both TB rubber caps?
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post #14 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-18-2014, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry for the delay guys. I have a beak on my bike which makes even taking the side fairings off a bit of a trick. Anyway- Stripped down the left side and found the sensor. Initially it appeared that the tubing coming from it took the longest way around/under the (i think) airbox. Due to this it appeared to enter the IAP sensor at a bit of an angle. Sort of hard to describe. Regardless I rerouted it somewhat to the side of the box there, which appeared to give a nice even and straight connection to the sensor. Tested it out and still getting the F.I. Also disconnected the sensor to make sure there was no dirt in the connector. Seemed fine.

More specifics on the conditions that trigger it: Have to get past 9k rpms, let off completely, and from 9k to about 7.5k rpm the light comes on (whilst engine braking) and when it gets to about 7.5-7k it goes off. This is the only time it's ever come on. So it does SEEM like something easily cause by a pinched air line, but I can't seem to find one. Interestingly there seemed to be a real lack of length to that particular line. Seemed to just barely be long enough, though I verified it was fully seated on both sides.



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post #15 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-18-2014, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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Also- Is there any part of a vacuum sync that could cause this? I ask because the sound of the bike changed a bit- hard to describe but just before engine braking kicks in it gets a lot more growly...


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post #16 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-18-2014, 02:44 PM
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Is the IAP sensor hose hooked to the left TB's left (outer) fitting? Also, is there a rubber cap on each TB vacuum fitting?
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post #17 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-18-2014, 03:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Is the IAP sensor hose hooked to the left TB's left (outer) fitting? Also, is there a rubber cap on each TB vacuum fitting?
Gonna have to take another look and let you know. Will do as soon as I can. It's a bitch to get the beak/side off when parked on the street...


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post #18 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-23-2014, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Is the IAP sensor hose hooked to the left TB's left (outer) fitting? Also, is there a rubber cap on each TB vacuum fitting?
Okay, so the hose from the AIP sensor is the lighter gray one seen with arrow in picture taken from the left side of bike. It is going to the 'inner' port (further from lefthand side of bike. Is this wrong? The other of line has enough slack to make me believe it's possible. You can see that the AIP hose is taught against the side of that plastic box. It was initially routed under it making it even tighter.




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post #19 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-23-2014, 07:24 PM
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Ok you got the right hose but it looks like it is in the wrong position. Whats that brown hose with the little hose clamp??

The air inlet hose (your dark grey one) should be on the outside nipple eg. the far left side.

Here is mine looking from the top.
Please ignore the blue hose - this is a Throttle sync balancing mod with a tap to turn it on and off - normally this would be capped off with a rubber cap 1-2in long



as you can see there is 2 hoses going to the Left throttle body. The black Left hose is the Air intake hose... MY blue one is normally capped off.
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post #20 of 33 (permalink) Old 08-23-2014, 07:56 PM
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Yes, your IAP sensor hose is on the wrong inner port. Switch it to the outer port.

Is the brownish hose on the other port for an automatic chain oiler? That's probably what threw them off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by goat12 View Post
After recently having some work done which involved tank removal I've had my FI light come on a couple of times. Always under hard acceleration, and always only until I let off the juice.

More specifics on the conditions that trigger it: Have to get past 9k rpms, let off completely, and from 9k to about 7.5k rpm the light comes on (whilst engine braking) and when it gets to about 7.5-7k it goes off. This is the only time it's ever come on.
Take it easier on your engine. It doesn't need to be wrung out like that. Have more mechanical sympathy.

Last edited by invader; 08-23-2014 at 08:00 PM.
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