Battery Replacement - New Guys with Used Bikes - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-10-2014, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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Battery Replacement - New Guys with Used Bikes

Hey guys, y'all have been so helpful over the last 1 1/2 years, I wanted to give back a little (from an engine/electronic goof).

Bike died while at the library last week (yes, I'm a dweebie V rider) - bunch of clicking & and wouldn't start. Roll-started it, but it died twice on the 2-mile trip home, but thankfully, I was going fast enough to keep roll-starting it.

Made it home and bought a new battery (Walmart Ever-Ready) and battery maintainer. Put the electrolytes that come with the battery in, and I charged the battery with the auto-charger (small $18 Amazon Shulmacher charger). I quit charging when it said it said charge was good. Mulitmeter read at 13+v. Turned ignition on, it cycled through, all systems go; and I hit the starter and got a single, loud click and all stopped. Did it a few times while ck'g everything and same thing - click then nothing.

I ck'd all the fuses and they were good. I was too ignorant to check the starter relay and solenoid. As a last ditch effort, I thought I'd put it on the charger for longer than the green light, auto-charger said.

After waiting two days, I put the battery in today after cleaning the connections with WD40 (they weren't dirty at all, but just to be safe) and thoroughly tightened down battery connections. She started! Woohoo! Rode her around for awhile and all seems to be good.

Before you go to all the research I did (tho' I learned a lot): BE SURE YOUR BATTERY IS FULLY CHARGED! I don't think mine was, tho' the charger read full. Once I did that, it started fine.

As I read on this forum and others, I think we sometimes quit too early on being sure the new battery is fully charged.

Sorry this is so long, but thanks for all the help you guy/gals give about technical stuff. So glad I didn't have to check the relay and solenoid.

P.S. There are other posts with links to the Service Manual (which is different than the Owner's Manual - you can learn a lot).

Thanks for all y'all do in helping us sort out irritating issues. Love my Versys!

Last edited by kawdawg; 06-10-2014 at 11:36 PM.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 12:36 AM
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I don't think mine was, tho' the charger read full.
So, how do we know what the problem was? How long was your new battery charged for initially? How is your original battery taking a charge now?

Poor battery connections can cause a lack of starting current, as well as a lack of charging current.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 08:30 AM
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i read somewhere - that after putting the acid in a new glass mat battery, it's best to let is "soak" over night, and then start the charging. That way the glass matting inside the battery is fully wetted by the electrolyte before it is induced to take a charge.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 10:50 AM
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Spraying your connections was probably PART of the "fix".

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by invader View Post
So, how do we know what the problem was? How long was your new battery charged for initially? How is your original battery taking a charge now?

Poor battery connections can cause a lack of starting current, as well as a lack of charging current.
+1
I'm sure the WD40 fixed it..or was the battery finally allowed to "soak" long enough...the OP didn't even get the Walmart battery brand right...everybody knows its NEverstart

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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I don't have the old battery - turned it in when I bought the new one. I didn't try to recharge it because it was 3 years old, so I figured it had run it's normal life expectancy.

I only charged the new battery for about 3 hours when I got the "green light" that it was fully charged, but the bike wouldn't start. As I'm not mechanically inclined I just figured after the fuse check that I'd try charging it longer. I'm guessing that worked, since the connections weren't dirty and I had them good and tight when I tried to start it earlier.

My conclusion was that the charger may show a full charge on a new battery, when in fact, it's not fully charged (however, that conclusion may be totally wrong or may have been only part of the problem). Perhaps the lesson is keep piddling till something works, though my next step was to haul it to the Kawasaki shop.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 08:28 PM
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My original Yuasa battery is still fine after 7.5 years, even though it was made in China.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 08:45 PM
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My original Yuasa battery is still fine after 7.5 years, even though it was made in China.
hey, invader, I was wondering if a smaller battery---9bs-- could cause a premature failure of my rectifier or stator----to make a short story long, I bumped the 6v/12v switch on my float charger and discharged my bike battery--12bs---and had a new agm9bs laying around so I stuck it on the bike, after I figured out what happened I recharged the 12bs and stuck it on my jetski before I sold it. I will buy a new 12bs battery if I am going to shorten the life of any of the elect. components-----
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-11-2014, 09:18 PM
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Yes, it would be just fine with a smaller battery. It will charge up faster, but wil simply provide less cranking power to start the engine. What is the smaller battery's CCA rating? Try it out. If it starts ok, then you're golden. Make sure to fill up the void with some type of padding to secure battery snuggly in its box.

Last edited by invader; 06-12-2014 at 03:55 AM.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-12-2014, 01:41 AM
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Still using the original battery in my '09.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-12-2014, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
Yes, it would be just fine with a smaller battery. It will charge up faster, but wil simply provide less cranking power to start the engine. What is the smaller battery's CCA rating? Try it out. If it starts ok, then you're golden. Make sure to fill up the void with some type of padding to secure battery snuggly in its box.
looks like the 9-bs is a 8ah and the 12bs is a 10ah rating. is (ah)amphour the same as (cca)cold cranking amps? width and depth are exactly the same . just had to put some foam under it. its about an inch shorter height---thanks for the info
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-12-2014, 09:21 AM
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looks like the 9-bs is a 8ah and the 12bs is a 10ah rating. is (ah)amphour the same as (cca)cold cranking amps? width and depth are exactly the same . just had to put some foam under it. its about an inch shorter height---thanks for the info
AH rating and CCA ratings are different ratings. AH is the energy output rating over a long period of time (the area under the curve, amps x hours = amp hours). CCA is the instantaneous rating of the output of battery (for just a few seconds), such as the power required to start your engine. Car batteries have these same two ratings. For a given battery design, the larger the AH the greater the CCA will be.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-12-2014, 10:57 AM
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Still using the original battery in my '09.
And me too, in both my '08 and '09.

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-12-2014, 11:39 AM
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Hey guys, y'all have been so helpful over the last 1 1/2 years, I wanted to give back a little (from an engine/electronic goof).
Thanks for spelling "y'all" right! I wondered, where is this guy from that he knows how to spell "y'all", must be the South. Sure enough...Texas

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