Clutch adjustment Question - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 77 (permalink) Old 07-17-2008, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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Clutch tip;

My clutch was not adjusted correctly at the dealer. It caused my clutch to slip under heavy load. I read one magazine review that described poor 0-60 and 1/4 mile times compared to the Ninja 650R due to the exact same symptoms I was experiencing. I figure there may be some other V owners suffering from an unpredictable clutch.

If there is too much play in the clutch lever, the clutch will slip. If there is not enough play, the clutch may not disengage. See page 45 of the service manual if available. Here is a picture of the area you want to inspect when checking the gap;



Adjust the cable using the black knurled knobs until you have a 2-3mm gap when the play is taken out of the lever.




If your clutch feels sub par, take a couple minutes (you can do it on your next ride it's so easy) and adjust the cable slack to obtain the correct 2-3mm gap at the lever and you will be rewarded with a perfect feeling clutch. If this causes a longer reach to the clutch lever, simply adjust the chrome wheel using the different index numbers until the correct reach is obtained.




I'm almost positive that the magazine reviewer who commented on the Ninja having a much better clutch was experiencing the same issue as I was. Since the motors are almost identical in both bikes, I'm willing to bet both bikes have identical clutch components. Adjusting the clutch cable made my bike WAY more ridable, predicable and quicker to accelerate. Prior to figuring this out my motor would continue to rev for a second or so even if I dumped the clutch under heavy load (WOT!). I hope this helps somebody else out there on the internets!


Luke
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post #2 of 77 (permalink) Old 07-17-2008, 03:18 PM
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Excellent find!! Great pics!!


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post #3 of 77 (permalink) Old 07-17-2008, 08:53 PM
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Thanks for the post. I, too, had to adjust my clutch within my first week. Now it works fine.

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post #4 of 77 (permalink) Old 07-23-2008, 12:57 PM
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Ditto here. My dealership didnt do jack for prep. I had to go over the whole bike. Would have done it anyway, but I now know not to believe in the dealer's abilty.
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post #5 of 77 (permalink) Old 07-23-2008, 09:05 PM
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I don't trust the dealer ether. I don't want a 16 year old school kid working on my bike. That seems to be the way the dealers operate.
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post #6 of 77 (permalink) Old 11-07-2008, 11:14 PM
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Great info,
Thanks!
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post #7 of 77 (permalink) Old 11-08-2008, 04:25 AM
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Clutch lever play needs to be checked periodically. As the cable ages it will stretch a little.
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post #8 of 77 (permalink) Old 11-08-2008, 06:24 AM
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You are all gonna laugh ,but I use a feeler guage(narrow obtained fronm Grainger thru my work) to check the gap,started doing it on my Triumph originally (same adjustment range) it workes and makes measuring very easy. And as stated above keeping the adjustment correct is very important,as is checking it once in a while and LUBEING the cabel and pivots!

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post #9 of 77 (permalink) Old 11-09-2008, 08:52 PM
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So, I suspected my clutch was getting a little slippy. i checked it today, and I had to back it out it bit. It was sitting with constant tension on the cable. BAD BAD BAD!

It's so much better now that I adjusted it!

Thanks a million!
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post #10 of 77 (permalink) Old 11-10-2008, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maddjack View Post
You are all gonna laugh ,but I use a feeler guage(narrow obtained fronm Grainger thru my work) to check the gap,started doing it on my Triumph originally (same adjustment range) it workes and makes measuring very easy. And as stated above keeping the adjustment correct is very important,as is checking it once in a while and LUBEING the cabel and pivots!
I'm not gonna laugh, cause that is a brilliant idea!


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post #11 of 77 (permalink) Old 11-10-2008, 12:17 PM
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Looking at my Hydraulic clutch on my KLR with woundering eyes. Looks like it will fit in place of the Cable and Dual Star out of Washington sells them for the KLR's. Works awesome on the KLR and is also adjustable. Winter times a commin' and I just might have to try it on. The mounting is very similar on both and automatically adjusts the slack. Really nice when loaded up and riding stop and go in a Hilly town.
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post #12 of 77 (permalink) Old 11-10-2008, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buckthebushman View Post
Looking at my Hydraulic clutch on my KLR with woundering eyes. Looks like it will fit in place of the Cable and Dual Star out of Washington sells them for the KLR's. Works awesome on the KLR and is also adjustable. Winter times a commin' and I just might have to try it on. The mounting is very similar on both and automatically adjusts the slack. Really nice when loaded up and riding stop and go in a Hilly town.
By all means, give it a try and let us know. I would really prefer the hydraulic setup!
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post #13 of 77 (permalink) Old 11-10-2008, 03:11 PM
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Somone on this forum already did the Magura Clutch mod - http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...hp/t-1288.html

Let us know if the KLR will work with the Versys.
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post #14 of 77 (permalink) Old 12-03-2008, 08:56 PM
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"If there is too much play in the clutch lever, the clutch will slip. If there is not enough play, the clutch may not disengage. See page 45 of the service manual if available."

Hmmm, if there is too much play, the clutch won't Engage enough (interrupt power transfer), if there is not enough play, the clutch will Slip (stay engaged and some horsepower will turn into friction at the slipping clutch plates). but I know what you're saying, check your clutch adjustment!
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post #15 of 77 (permalink) Old 02-04-2009, 11:19 PM
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My clutch cable seems to be getting stuck when it's really cold out (tonight in Raleigh, NC the temp is 26F, "realfeel" 18....which isn't that cold...but for NC it is).

Any ideas? I pull it in, and it is stuck. It slowly comes back out over a period of 10-20 seconds. Makes for dangerous riding. Does it need lubrication?


David

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Little Rock, AR (previously Raleigh, NC; Morehead City, NC; and Virginia Beach, VA)

2008 Kawasaki Versys
Bought in May 2008 and have 58,000 miles on it as of July 2014
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post #16 of 77 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 12:00 AM
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David, I would say that you definitely should lube the cable, but it may be a little more than that.

Have you done any work around your steering head lately? I would trace the clutch cable as it routes to the steering head and then angles down. You may have somehow gotten a bend in the cable with too tight of a radius that is causing some cable drag in the sheath.

Good luck with it.

Chris in Oneonta, NY
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post #17 of 77 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 07:05 AM
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Or there is moisture in your cable that has frozen. Like DragonBreath said, your cable needs a good lubing.

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post #18 of 77 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 07:13 AM
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I adjust my cable often as it doesn't seem to want to hold a steady position. The locking hub vibrates loose and the cable gets out of sync often. I noticed this the first week I owned the bike. Short of Locktite, I'm ok with adjusting the cable as long as I know it needs to be done.

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post #19 of 77 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 07:56 AM
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I adjusted mine within the first two days of getting mine. I like to have power almost right away so mine is in quite a bit. I've done this with all of my bikes before and not had any problems. Is this bad for the cable and I've not known it?

I have it set up with a little play and then power, not like from the dealer where the clutch had to be almost full out before I even started going.
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post #20 of 77 (permalink) Old 02-05-2009, 12:54 PM
 
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From my experience my clutch and throttle cables were way out of adjustment when new. It caused a very jerky response. Ten minutes of readjustment and then bike was much more rideable. Check them and adjust them often.
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