Crush washer - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-14-2009, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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Crush washer

does anyyone know what size crush washer fits on the oilpan bolt?
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-14-2009, 09:31 AM
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I purchased several from my local Kawasaki dealer. They are very inexpensive but I had to order them. I think they cost $0.30 each.


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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-14-2009, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brothercannon View Post
I purchased several from my local Kawasaki dealer. They are very inexpensive but I had to order them. I think they cost $0.30 each.
... or buy a (some...) copper washer(s) that fit, and then anneal it each time you change oil.
Ed
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-14-2009, 05:01 PM
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I can't believe they just don't give you one every time you buy a filter...it should just be part of the deal.
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-14-2009, 05:12 PM
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I just use the old one.

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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-14-2009, 07:01 PM
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The dealer told me you don't really NEED to change it every time. Once every 3-4 times should be plenty.
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-14-2009, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kayaker View Post
does anyyone know what size crush washer fits on the oilpan bolt?
I've changed my oil 6 times and still using the original crush washer. Hate to admit it but I did not know there was cooper crush washer up there. I've always changed the oil on my own with all my engines. I have never had anything drip from the nut. Learned something new. But i wouldn't sweat it unless it dripped on you. :insert harley joke here:


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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-14-2009, 08:02 PM
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I've changed my oil 6 times and still using the original crush washer. Hate to admit it but I did not know there was cooper crush washer up there.
I just did my 600 mile oil change on my '09 and used the old washer, it wasn't copper it was aluminum. No leaks. Generally I always like to use a new washer and do on my Goldwing because it has leaked when I tried to reuse the washer. I tried buying new washers for the V and the dealer didn't have any in stock, very strange for such an inexpensive part.
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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-14-2009, 08:57 PM
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Size is 12mm, but a 1/2" washer works OK. In a pinch, a 12mm spark plug gasket works fine.

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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-15-2009, 01:37 AM
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Copper 'crush' washers are hollow, like the exhaust manifold gaskets. Drain plug washers are solid.
http://www.magneticdrainplugs.com/gaskets.htm

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimJim View Post
I just did my 600 mile oil change on my '09 and used the old washer, it wasn't copper it was aluminum. No leaks. Generally I always like to use a new washer and do on my Goldwing because it has leaked when I tried to reuse the washer. I tried buying new washers for the V and the dealer didn't have any in stock, very strange for such an inexpensive part.
Mine is aluminum too. An aluminum gasket is better than copper on an aluminum oil pan. It requires less torque to seal for less strain on the aluminum pan's threads... Also, copper is a dissimilar metal. When in contact with one another in the presence of an electrolyte, galvanic action occurs, resulting in the deterioration of the metal with the lower galvanic number. The electrolyte may be rain water running from one surface to another, or moisture from the air containing enough acid to cause it to act as an electrolyte. Since copper has one of the highest galvanic numbers or nobility of the active metals, it'll not be harmed by contact with any of them, but will cause corrosion of the other metals if in direct contact. It's not necessary to isolate copper from lead, tin or stainless steel under most circumstances. The principal metals of concern in terms of direct contact are aluminum and zinc.

Strangely enough, my 2002 Yamaha WR426F came with copper washers on the aluminum oil pan and oil line fittings. It didn't seem to be a problem over 6 years, maybe because of a residual oil film. There were a few reports of stripped pan threads.

I never felt the need to replace my drain plug washer... Recommended torque on engine oil drain plug is 22 ft-lbs.

Last edited by invader; 08-15-2009 at 04:04 AM.
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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-15-2009, 06:20 PM
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I've always just heated the washer to a dull red and let it cool down on it's own. Someone earlier called this anealling. Voila, good as a new one.

Jeff
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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-15-2009, 07:16 PM
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The shop where i Buy my K&N oil filters always ask what bike you have and just put the right washer in the oil filter box when you buy it, at no charge. (Not a Kawasaki dealer)
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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-15-2009, 07:53 PM
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The shop where i Buy my K&N oil filters always ask what bike you have and just put the right washer in the oil filter box when you buy it, at no charge. (Not a Kawasaki dealer)
Cool... Which shop is it? Do they give you an aluminum or copper washer?
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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-15-2009, 08:40 PM
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Just as an aside, if you look under the left side of the engine, there are bolts that have copper washers under the heads. Electrolysis has never been a factor on engines, even in cooling systems, as long as the proper coolant is used.

I usually replace soft sealing washers with Stat-O-Seals, which are steel washers with a Buna-N "O" ring bonded to the inside diameter. They don't crush down, and last almost indefinitely.

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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-15-2009, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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thank you

I appreciate everyone's input.. I' try annealing my old one.

MB
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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-15-2009, 09:57 PM
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I used original washer and a little bit of loctite (white) for drain nut... Never have to replaced a washer yet on any of my bikes at all...

If you use Loctite (white), the drain nut will never come off... I don't have the exact Lotite model... bu it's low strength threadlocker.

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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-16-2009, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
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I appreciate everyone's input.. I' try annealing my old one.

MB
Kayaker,
Suggest you DON'T try to anneal the Aluminum crush washer, just ones made of Copper. I've always heated them to bright red and dropped them into a container of water. That softens them for reuse so that they conform to any irregularities present. (Been doing this since the early '60s, starting w/ my Triumph's copper head gasket which ran 12-1 compression!)

Ed
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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-16-2009, 04:51 PM
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I always reverse the washer and give it a new surface to bed in. Never had a leak or any other problem. I've done this at least 8 times on my current bike.

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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-16-2009, 05:17 PM
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I've always reused the original time after time, no flipping or heating or anything over complicated. Never so much as a drop of leakage.



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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-16-2009, 05:50 PM
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I've always reused the original time after time, no flipping or heating or anything over complicated. Never so much as a drop of leakage.
This has been my experience as well.

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