Valve Job? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-25-2009, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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Valve Job?

Has anyone had there valves adjusted yet? I know the service manual says should be checked around 26K. Looking for some personal experience. Yourself or dealer?

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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-25-2009, 11:11 PM
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I just took a look at mine for the 24k service. Canada, I beleive, is the only place that requires a valve check at 24k. I was planning on letting the dealer do only the valves and I would do the rest myself since I've never attempted working on valves before.

Well, I got motivated and decided to look at them on my own and maybe save some bucks. Most of the job is getting the body and tank off the rest is pretty simple. I was fully accepting to move around some of the shims and even replacing some that were too far gone, BUT, I'm a lucky guy and all the valves were within spec. The valve cover gasket was perfect as well. My parts guy ordered me one but didn't think I'd use it, he was right. He even ordered some shims just in case I needed them. Didn't have to use any of the items my dealer ordered, they said no problem, we'll just keep them in stock for you for when you do need them.

For the service I documented everything and took a lot of pictures just in case Kawasaki says I didnt do the service work. I even took a picture of every valve and a feeler guage indicating the clearance. I'm fortunate in that I have a dealer that likes me and is willing to go to bat for me, hell, they even lend me their tools some time. (front sprocket aarrrgh)

I encourage everyone to give it a shot, just read the manual and take a little time. After all whats the worse thing that can happen, you blow your motor, life goes on.

Falling down is your bodies way of saying you just screwed up.

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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-26-2009, 03:05 AM
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I just took a look at mine for the 24k service. Canada, I I encourage everyone to give it a shot, just read the manual and take a little time. After all whats the worse thing that can happen, you blow your motor, life goes on.
Great job Cuff. That's the way to learn, have a go. It's your brain that needs convincing, not your hands. I bet you enjoyed doing it too.
Ted.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-26-2009, 05:24 AM
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I'll give it a go this winter. The description in the service manual makes it sound straightforward. I wonder why we who own the bike in Canada have to do this service twice as frequently as anywhere else in the world?
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-27-2009, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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24K kilometers or miles? I am at just about 23K miles.

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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-27-2009, 07:47 PM
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Great job Cuff. That's the way to learn, have a go. It's your brain that needs convincing, not your hands. I bet you enjoyed doing it too.
Ted.
Found the whole thing pretty fun. Glad I didn't have to change any shims. Still would have done it but it would have taken a little more time taking the cams and timing chain off.

Now that I have the go ahead from my dealer, I'm doing all the services at home. If they screw me over (can't see it though) I have the pictures and documentation for Kawasaki Canada.

As to the 24k klm's service only here in Canada it prob has to do with the short riding season and the small amount of dealers looking for service. That's were they make most of their money, in the shop and not on the show room floor.

Falling down is your bodies way of saying you just screwed up.

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 07-28-2009, 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Mt. Versuvius View Post
I'll give it a go this winter. The description in the service manual makes it sound straightforward. I wonder why we who own the bike in Canada have to do this service twice as frequently as anywhere else in the world?
It's common across Kawasaki's motorcycle line, and is probably attributable to EPA's emission regulations. Canadian models have no mechanical differences, and most checks done at 24000 Kms (15000 miles) on the Versys show no need for adjustment yet... Valve lash clearance check and adjustment (not an actual 'valve job') is pretty easy to do on a DOHC engine. Check on a cold engine and with corresponding pistons at TDC, by turning timing rotor bolt clockwise. (page 2-20 in 2007 service manual download.)
Replacement 7.48 mm diameter shims are available in 0.05 mm increments, and are also used by Honda, Suzuki and Yamaha. Original factory installed shims can be of any 0.01 mm increment.

Last edited by invader; 07-28-2009 at 01:53 AM.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-01-2009, 05:32 PM
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24K kilometers or miles? I am at just about 23K miles.
In Canada the valves need to be checked every 24k kms, which is twice as frequently as anywhere else in the world that the bike is sold. Even after reading the above posts I'm still not clear why.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-01-2009, 09:28 PM
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I just took a look at mine for the 24k service. Canada, I beleive, is the only place that requires a valve check at 24k. I was planning on letting the dealer do only the valves and I would do the rest myself since I've never attempted working on valves before.

Well, I got motivated and decided to look at them on my own and maybe save some bucks. Most of the job is getting the body and tank off the rest is pretty simple. I was fully accepting to move around some of the shims and even replacing some that were too far gone, BUT, I'm a lucky guy and all the valves were within spec. The valve cover gasket was perfect as well. My parts guy ordered me one but didn't think I'd use it, he was right. He even ordered some shims just in case I needed them. Didn't have to use any of the items my dealer ordered, they said no problem, we'll just keep them in stock for you for when you do need them.

For the service I documented everything and took a lot of pictures just in case Kawasaki says I didnt do the service work. I even took a picture of every valve and a feeler guage indicating the clearance. I'm fortunate in that I have a dealer that likes me and is willing to go to bat for me, hell, they even lend me their tools some time. (front sprocket aarrrgh)

I encourage everyone to give it a shot, just read the manual and take a little time. After all whats the worse thing that can happen, you blow your motor, life goes on.
lets see some of the pics of the valves!!
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-01-2009, 11:49 PM
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Here are some 03:30 in the morning shots. I added a pic of the plugs that came out as well.
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Falling down is your bodies way of saying you just screwed up.

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post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-02-2009, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Mt. Versuvius View Post
In Canada the valves need to be checked every 24k kms, which is twice as frequently as anywhere else in the world that the bike is sold. Even after reading the above posts I'm still not clear why.

Can it be due to climatic conditions in Canada and huge temperature differences ?


Actually, the valve clearance adjustment by shims is presently the most reliable system (the clearance doesn't change a lot...), but the adjustment itself is more complicated than with screw-by-screw system used on older engines (ER5, GPZ, BMW Flat Twin), or even with Ducati desmodromic. You have to remove the chain tender, the camshafts, go and see your dealer to exchange shims, reinstall camshafts, tender... I'm always a bit nervous while reinstalling the camshafts and the chain, I count at least ten times the chain pins to see if the number is correct

On a BMW flat twin, for instance, it's so easy... nothing to remove but the cylinder head cover, adjustment by turning a screw... but the check is to be done every 10000 km... (air-cooled engine)...
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post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-07-2009, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cuff View Post
Here are some 03:30 in the morning shots. I added a pic of the plugs that came out as well.

O.K I got my courage together and went after it. Valves are within spec and quite happy about that after 26K Miles. Mixtures of Mobil 1 15W-50 1 qt. and the 10W-40 to top off whats left. I do have an issue though. Put things back together now and now my ding dang along FI light is on. Bike seems to run fine, but me a little on concerned. Any suggestions by Brota's?

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post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-07-2009, 03:33 PM
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Check the service manual. There's a way to read the FI light trouble codes. If you don't have the manual, search for it here on the forum. It's a free download...



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post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-07-2009, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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Manual

Got that and checked. Says likely wiring issue. Can't find anything that is not plugged in tough and everything went back the way it came off. There are not that many connectors to check .


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post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-07-2009, 04:25 PM
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That is interesting. Being a technician myself, my thinking is, no problem before I touched it, problem after I touched it, must be technician induced. Time to tear it apart again for one more look...



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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-07-2009, 10:02 PM
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Plug-ins for IAT sensor in airbox, PAIR valve control in front of airbox, fuel level sensor, fuel pump...
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-08-2009, 04:44 AM
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Can it be due to climatic conditions in Canada and huge temperature differences ?

True, it does get bloody cold here in the winter. On the other hand, for the most part the engines are not being used in these conditions, as most bikes have been put into hibernation by that point.

Interesting to read your observations about the different valve adjustment systems. What is BMW's current adjustment system (on their flat twins)?
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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-08-2009, 10:56 AM
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Plug-ins for IAT sensor in airbox, PAIR valve control in front of airbox, fuel level sensor, fuel pump...
+1

Falling down is your bodies way of saying you just screwed up.

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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-08-2009, 11:12 AM
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Nice job on the valves.

I'm surprised your plugs look so cruddy-I live just down the road in WA state, took my plugs out at 20k and they looked like new.

Were your plug covers correctly seated? Or do you ride a lot in the winter on heavily salted roads?

Machog


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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-08-2009, 02:08 PM
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Nice job on the valves.

I'm surprised your plugs look so cruddy-I live just down the road in WA state, took my plugs out at 20k and they looked like new.

Were your plug covers correctly seated? Or do you ride a lot in the winter on heavily salted roads?

Machog
I ride all year round, rain or shine. The only thing I won't do is snow. Not worth the risk. I don't mind a little frost, you just get up a little earlier and take your time.

I wasn't surprised about the plugs myself, in fact I thought they would be worse off. The coils and covers were seated pretty good but when rubber and metal meet sometimes things get by. It's also hard to dry out the inside parts in the winter. I try and wash/rinse every couple of days once the salt starts flying but you can't get everything off. I'll just try and stay on top of everything and replace whats needed.

When I purchased the V I picked up the 3 year warranty for around $450.00. If the stick coils go two years from now I'll just get new ones If any bearings rust from the winter riding in two years I'll just get new ones. You get the point. I'm documenting every service I do and my dealer likes me.

Falling down is your bodies way of saying you just screwed up.

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