Total oil removal on 2012 KLE650 Versys - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-20-2013, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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Total oil removal on 2012 KLE650 Versys

Hi there all:
Have any had the experience in totally removing your V's engine oil? Would like to share your experience on the subject, given I would like to change the automotive oil I initially used for a motorcycle type oil, concerned on potential damage to the clutch plates, etc. How can oil be totally removed, (oil filter must go too), and wash or clean with any chemical, flush formula, etc. without causing damage to the motorcycle. A friend did something like that but he poured gasoline into the oil chamber, let the bike sit for a couple of days, then removed the gas an opened all venues to the engine and let sit for 2-3 more days. During this operation, he did not risk turning the engine on. Then installed new oil filter and new oil. No problems at all. And he is a very fast rider on a heavily poisoned ninja. Good for him.
But I am more concerned in sharing your experience on the subject.
Cheers, McGyver.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-20-2013, 08:23 PM
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Fill with your new desired oil.

Ride for 20-30 mins.

Drain said oil.

Replace filter.

Replenish with new oil.

Whammy. Done.

Hooligan
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-20-2013, 08:25 PM
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Drain the oil. Refill with what you want to run. Go for a short ride to circulate the oil, and drain again. Refill and live life.

I would just personally change the oil and not worry about it.

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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-20-2013, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by HAWKSHOT99 View Post
Drain the oil. Refill with what you want to run. Go for a short ride to circulate the oil, and drain again. Refill and live life.

I would just personally change the oil and not worry about it.
+1
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-20-2013, 08:36 PM
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You could just McGyver it... Drain it hot and remove oil filter. When it's almost done dripping, shift it up in 6th gear with rear wheel jacked up and rotate rear wheel a couple turns to pump out more oil. Lean it over both sides for a while as much as you can to drain more oil out. Then when it's done dripping overnight, pour in about 1/2 cup of good new oil to rinse out oil pan... Reinstall drain plug and new filter, and refill with good oil. Rotate rear wheel in 6th gear again to prime it, then check oil level. Check it again after a short run and complete cooldown.

*McGiver trick: Shift up out of neutral by rotating rear wheel fast enough by hand while lifting shifter with your other hand without using the clutch.

Last edited by invader; 10-20-2013 at 09:00 PM.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-20-2013, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by HAWKSHOT99 View Post
Drain the oil. Refill with what you want to run. Go for a short ride to circulate the oil, and drain again. Refill and live life.

I would just personally change the oil and not worry about it.
+2

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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-20-2013, 10:04 PM
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You could just McGyver it... Drain it hot and remove oil filter. When it's almost done dripping, shift it up in 6th gear with rear wheel jacked up and rotate rear wheel a couple turns to pump out more oil. Lean it over both sides for a while as much as you can to drain more oil out. Then when it's done dripping overnight, pour in about 1/2 cup of good new oil to rinse out oil pan... Reinstall drain plug and new filter, and refill with good oil. Rotate rear wheel in 6th gear again to prime it, then check oil level. Check it again after a short run and complete cooldown.

*McGiver trick: Shift up out of neutral by rotating rear wheel fast enough by hand while lifting shifter with your other hand without using the clutch.
Or roll into the driveway in 6th gear, stop the bike in 6th gear, and put it up on the stand.

I would warm up the engine, drain the oil and replace with a quality motorcycle oil. If concerned, add a little seafoam to the oil before warming up and draining.

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-20-2013, 10:18 PM
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No Seafoam... 6th gear is a tad high to drive up driveway into garage. 2nd gear would do. Rear wheel has to rotate to shift up from neutral. With rear wheel jacked up, you can rotate rear wheel in 6th gear by hand to pump more old oil out.

Last edited by invader; 10-20-2013 at 10:22 PM.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-21-2013, 03:37 AM
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Get it to normal operating temp. Place bike on level floor. Drain oil, remove filter, rock bike side to side a couple of times. Leave until dripping has stopped. Fit new filter and fill with oil. Simple.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-21-2013, 04:57 AM Thread Starter
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Again, thanks you all for your input. Noticed none went with the wild idea of pouring gas for flushing. The formula: warm+change oil & filter+run for a short while+drain+2nd oil change & filter+tilt rear+rotate wheel 2nd to 6th gear+drain till dry+refill oil new filter. Ready to go. This puts in motion the entire mechanism, ensuring whatever trace of the automotive oil... goes!

Also HackShot99's simple and direct approach makes sense too. The ounce or two of the automotive remains will dilute in first change and out will go when drained. There is more fun riding the thing for a short while rather than replicating gear actions by hand...

Life is short and if riding is part of the fix, what are we waiting for?
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-21-2013, 08:05 AM
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No Seafoam... 6th gear is a tad high to drive up driveway into garage. 2nd gear would do. Rear wheel has to rotate to shift up from neutral. With rear wheel jacked up, you can rotate rear wheel in 6th gear by hand to pump more old oil out.
What do you have against Seafoam? It says right on the can that it can be added to the oil prior to an oil change to help clean the internals. I has cleared a sticking lifter a time or two for some of my high mileage vehicles.

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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-21-2013, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by twowheeladdict View Post
What do you have against Seafoam? It says right on the can that it can be added to the oil prior to an oil change to help clean the internals. I has cleared a sticking lifter a time or two for some of my high mileage vehicles.
I might try that before my next oil change. How much should I put in the crankcase?
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-21-2013, 11:36 AM
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This falls under the 'cleaning your house with a cotton swab" OCD mentality. Just change the oil and move on with life.

Someday is not a day of the week.
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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-21-2013, 06:28 PM
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'McGyver' did ask how to remove as much oil as possible, on the first shot.
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-21-2013, 06:57 PM
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I would just personally change the oil and not worry about it.
This is what I would do.
I think you are trying to do more to change over to motorcycle oil than is necessary.

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Last edited by DK35vince; 10-21-2013 at 07:00 PM.
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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-21-2013, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by McGyver View Post
Hi there all:
Have any had the experience in totally removing your V's engine oil? Would like to share your experience on the subject, given I would like to change the automotive oil I initially used for a motorcycle type oil, concerned on potential damage to the clutch plates, etc.
If the clutch isn't slipping why bother?

Browse the motorcycle used oil analyses here to see how various motor oils (including ones that don't claim to meet motorcycle standards) actually hold up in various motorcycles.

I believe in changing oil a lot more frequently than some owners--primarily because of the loss of viscosity from the oil lubricating the transmission. And I even tip the bike from side to side a bit when draining, to get more out. But I wouldn't drain the oil just because it's not motorcycle oil. If you're still concerned, search in that link I provided for used oil analysis from a similar motorcycle with exactly the oil you used, to see how the oil held up, if wear metals were too high, etc.
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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-22-2013, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by HAWKSHOT99 View Post
Drain the oil. Refill with what you want to run. Go for a short ride to circulate the oil, and drain again. Refill and live life.

I would just personally change the oil and not worry about it.
+1

Your oil is not poison, just replace it with a new filter and you are good to go.


Sent from Motorcycle.com App
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post #18 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-22-2013, 03:22 PM
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McGiver - FWIW - the ONLY time my two Vs have had motorcycle-specific oil in the engines, was on the ride home from the dealers as I 'broke' them in (motoman method), then changed it. ...To "car" oil. Then (around 3,000 miles and a couple more changes, or so) they were put on Mobil1 synthetic CAR oil, either 15w-50 or 10w-40, which they've been on SINCE. Check the threads by "jdrocks".... The 15w-50 is all he uses too.


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post #19 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-23-2013, 11:11 PM Thread Starter
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Excellent input, you all. I will just pick from there on. Cheers.
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post #20 of 23 (permalink) Old 10-25-2013, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by kiwitourer View Post
Get it to normal operating temp. Place bike on level floor. Drain oil, remove filter, rock bike side to side a couple of times. Leave until dripping has stopped. Fit new filter and fill with oil. Simple.
+1! That's what i do. Otherwise loss of money...and time to ride! Hold the front brake and lean it as much as you can to the right a couple of times until dripping has stopped each time. It ables me to pour in fresh oil more than it says in the manual for a full oil change.
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