Join Date: May 2009
Location: NW FL Panhandle
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
After putting the bike up on the rear standby push as many flat blocks and shims (that are about 5" X 9") under the rear tire as you can easily push by hand. Then loosen the axle. You can then drive the axle out with a short dowel. When you put the wheel and tire back, turn the chain adjusters in a couple of turns. Add a 1/4" shim to the stack under the rear wheel. Put the wheel, sprocket carrier, caliper, chain and spacers back in place. Put the washer and the adjusting block on the axle. You can look at the rub marks on the blocks and tell which side and which way they were installed originally. I like to put them back the same so I don't get any new rub marks :-) Now since the swing arm is hanging down a a good angle, you can look through the axle slots in the SA and roll the tire backwards and forwards until the axle slot height lines up with the spacers and bearings. Look at the right side and line the caliper up with the bearings, spacer and swing arm slot. Start the axle through the caliper and into the first right (silver) spacer. Now if you used a short tapered dowel to hold the spacers and sprocket carrier in place you can push the short dowel out with the axle. If everything is lined up real good, you can use your hand. If not a small soft faced mallet or a 2 X 4 block in hand is plenty. Pull the blocks and shims out. Put the left adjuster block, washer and nut on. Adjust chain and torque nut. I don't usually put the cotter key in until I have test ridden the bike and and made any track adjustments necessary.
Just in case you think you might like to replace the rear wheel without moving the adjusters: It's not impossible but you will bust your butt doing it! Time to R&R rear wheel = <30min. and not even break a sweat, if you have your tools, blocks & shims, and a center stand or race stand.