Need help quick - sheared off engine mounting bolt! - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 61 (permalink) Old 07-05-2013, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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Need help quick - sheared off engine mounting bolt!

I've heard some REALLY bad buzzing for the past couple weeks on my 2009 Versys when in the 3000-3800rpm range. I just did a once over on the bike, checking fairing fasteners, etc....Then I saw it.....The right hand side(when sitting on the bike) front engine mounting bolt is completely sheared off, making the Hepco & Becker crash guard rattle against the frame where a bolt usually goes. The end of the bolt is still there, along with the nut. Looks like it's sheared off inside the hole. Problem is, I'm leaving on the 16th for my annual MotoGP trip!
1.) How can I get the remaining bolt out of there, and...
2.) Is this a bolt that I can go purchase at AutoZone or Home Depot or is it a specialized HB bolt that I'll need to order online???


Thanks. Here's some pics so you can see what I mean.




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post #2 of 61 (permalink) Old 07-05-2013, 05:44 PM
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Here ya go.


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post #3 of 61 (permalink) Old 07-05-2013, 05:49 PM
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I'd think a grade 8 bolt and nut of the right size should work. Any good hardware place should have a Allen bolt of that size.
FAstenal has them listed on their site.

Good luck. Oh blocking the motor and using a car jack to slightly lift the motor, just enough to take the weight off the bolt, will make it easier to get to old bolt out and new in

Or was that look THEN leap?
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post #4 of 61 (permalink) Old 07-05-2013, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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THANK YOU guys! Good call on a jack to take the load off. It's a b!tch to get to as well.....If I take the load off, do you think I could simply back out/push through the bolt using a small pair of pliers?
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post #5 of 61 (permalink) Old 07-05-2013, 06:00 PM
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You may have to fiddle around a bit to find the sweet spot but Yep.

I did the rear shock on my KLR with a couple of wedges under the tire as the bike was on the lift and I need to get the wheel lined up just right. Once it was there the bolts slid right in.

OH yea I'd check all the Motor Mounts if I were you and might replace the bolt on the other side. I bet the bolt was loose is why it broke.

Or was that look THEN leap?
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post #6 of 61 (permalink) Old 07-05-2013, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
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Checked the other motor mounts that attach to the crash bars....All tight. But yeah, I'm sure it came loose and busted. If I can't find a matching bolt, would it be totally unsafe to go on a long ride like this?
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post #7 of 61 (permalink) Old 07-05-2013, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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The nut and remaining part of the bolt are fairly loose, but I can't seem to turn the bolt either way with needle nose, and that's about the only way I can get up in there between the header pipes......And you can't turn the nut because it is recessed into a spot which doesn't allow it to turn....
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post #8 of 61 (permalink) Old 07-05-2013, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
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The nut and remaining part of the bolt are fairly loose, but I can't seem to turn the bolt either way with needle nose, and that's about the only way I can get up in there between the header pipes......And you can't turn the nut because it is recessed into a spot which doesn't allow it to turn....
The headers come off easy..

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post #9 of 61 (permalink) Old 07-05-2013, 06:12 PM
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As long as it fits and is a Grade 8 it' shouldn't matter if it"s a socket head or a hex head bolt. Might look funny but that's all. Make sure that it seats correctly and remember what KLR stands for. Keep Locktite Ready!

Or was that look THEN leap?
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post #10 of 61 (permalink) Old 07-05-2013, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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"The headers come off easy"......Uggh. That's something I've never done, and I have limited time and less than a week.
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post #11 of 61 (permalink) Old 07-05-2013, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
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"The headers come off easy"......Uggh. That's something I've never done, and I have limited time and less than a week.
Looks like one clamp, where it hooks to the muffler, then the four nuts at the head and it'll land on your foot! You might want to replace the gaskets before you button it back up.

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post #12 of 61 (permalink) Old 07-05-2013, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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The header gaskets? That *should* be something that a Kawasaki dealer should have in stock, yeah? The remaining bolt and nut are literally so loose that they jiggle around.....It's more a matter of finding which tool to use to grab the remaining threaded bolt and whether I should back it out or pull it through..?!?
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post #13 of 61 (permalink) Old 07-05-2013, 07:13 PM
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I've re-used the header gasket before.No issues.

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post #14 of 61 (permalink) Old 07-06-2013, 12:18 AM
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Here's something that happened to me w/ H-B crash bars: the nut (supposed to be 'captured' by the engine case to stop it from turning) started turning well below the specified torque when I installed the H-Bs, and then there was NO way to remove the bolts.

I ended up stripping my V down to the point that the computor was out of it (did NOT want to "fry" THAT!), then towed it to a welder who welded 'tits' made of 1/4" round stock to 'flats' on the nuts, so that now the nuts MIGHT turn about 1/3 turn, then the 'tit' comes against the engine case, holding the nut, and I could remove the bolts. Here're 2 pics - nut & tit, and nut w/ tit against the case. (And I had 2 more welded up in case my BC V needs the same "cure"....

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post #15 of 61 (permalink) Old 07-06-2013, 12:29 AM
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Nice tits! I like that idea.

The only easy way to remove the broken bolt as I see it, would be to cut a slot on the protruding end of the bolt with rotary tool (Dremel) or hacksaw blade, to turn broken bolt back out of the nut with a standard (flat) screwdriver. Try not to damage the threads with pliers, and apply oil to it... Another way would be to drill a hole in the bolt's broken end and use an Easy-Out bit.

Last edited by invader; 07-06-2013 at 12:38 AM.
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post #16 of 61 (permalink) Old 07-06-2013, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
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Nice tits! I like that idea.

The only easy way to remove the broken bolt as I see it, would be to cut a slot on the protruding end of the bolt with rotary tool (Dremel) or hacksaw blade, to turn broken bolt back out of the nut with a standard (flat) screwdriver. Try not to damage the threads with pliers, and apply oil to it... Another way would be to drill a hole in the bolt's broken end and use an Easy-Out bit.
I've removed a bunch of bolts using the easy out method. It can be a little bit of a challenge sometimes, but if the bolt isn't rusted in, it should be pretty easy.

For someone who knows what they're doing, it shouldn't take more than a couple of hours to get this job done from start to finish. Someone with little to no experience might need a good part of a day to do it, but you can get it done before your trip. If your local hardware store doesn't have quite the right length of bolt, you can always get one a little longer and use some extra washers or cut it down with a dremel if you have one. Or just order the bolt you need today so it will be there in enough time to replace it.

I guess the other alternative is to take it to a shop and have them do it. No need to panic though, you can get this done before your trip. I am sure of that. If I were local to you, I'd totally come help you out.

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post #17 of 61 (permalink) Old 07-06-2013, 12:34 PM
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DEFINITELY do not go on your ride with a broken motor mount.

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post #18 of 61 (permalink) Old 07-06-2013, 03:33 PM
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Tenover,
Since no one has done this yet, I'd like to offer a few words of caution, based on my own experience. First of all, the nut is a locking nut and will be tight onto the bolt, made even tighter by the heat and corrosion of four years of usage. Secondly, there are several opportunities for making this problem worse: If you try to drive the bolt and nut on thru the hole, you will break away aluminum that is holding the nut in place - which could lead to a crack in the case - not likely, perhaps, but possible. If you are mechanically inclined, then the problem is solvable. If not, or if you have not had experience with removing broken studs or bolts, I recommend you not try to do this yourself. Take it to someone who is experienced: make sure you ask whoever you take it to how much experience they have with such problems. Your local Kawasaki dealer may not have this experience. A good machine shop might be better.

If you are inclined to do it yourself, I see a couple of options:
1. Try either drilling a hole into the end of the broken bolt and twisting it out using a Easy-out tap. This is not likely to work, unless the nut is fairly loosely locked on the bolt.
2. Try Invader's suggestion. I think the problem will be similar to 1, but maybe doing both together would work.
3. Split the nut off the bolt, and then drive the bolt back thru the hole. I like this better but you must be careful cracking the nut. A machine shop would be helpful with this approach.

Anyway, unless experienced here, I recommend finding help.
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post #19 of 61 (permalink) Old 07-06-2013, 09:59 PM
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I agree with the 3 previous posts... A good general mechanic or machinist will get the broken bolt out quickly and safely.
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post #20 of 61 (permalink) Old 07-07-2013, 03:35 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I talked to Hepco & Becker, and I think they are going to send me a replacement bolt. The problem is that I now have to remove the old bolt. It is VERY loose in there, it's just that nut that is making it so I can't get it out, if that makes sense(the remaining bolt and nut just jiggles when I touch it, but because there is a little bit of the bolt still in the hole, I can't pull it out, the nut won't turn because it's in that little recess, and the bolt won't turn inside the nut). I could cut a slot but will have to remove the headers....Is it really just the four bolts at the engine and then the one that holds the muffler up? Any tricks?
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