Shimming front engine mounts - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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Old 04-16-2009, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Shimming front engine mounts

While installing a set of Hepco-Becker engine guards today on my new '09, I noticed that the engine mount-to-engine brackets had significant gaps when the mount bolts were loosened. Right side was about 3/16" and left was about 1/8". Looks like the factory still hasn't made any modifications to the frame. I shimmed both sides to zero gap with washers.

I'd suggest that everyone loosen these mount bolts and check for gaps. As we've seen before, preloading the mount brackets can result in cracked frames at the mount bracket welds. It only takes a few minutes, and will avoid problems down the road. My first impression was that there was less vibration transmitted through the frame after the mounts were shimmed properly.
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Old 04-17-2009, 12:37 AM
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could you, or anyone else for that matter, please post a pic showing which bolts exactly need shimming?
I wanna check mine, but theres soo many different bolts down there


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Old 04-17-2009, 12:43 AM
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Old 04-17-2009, 02:03 AM
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Who has an '08 or '09 with a cracked mount? I think some people are confusing the first '06/'07 mounts (or those on the Ninja/ER6) with what's on the '08/'09 Versys. When checking the gap, make sure both engine mounts are loose, otherwise you will see and artificially large gap on the side that is loose. IMHO, a small gap is nothing to worry about. Shimming it probably wont hurt, but not doing so isn't going to result in broken mounts as some posts imply.

Gustavo


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Old 04-17-2009, 07:52 AM
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redline and I installed SW Motech bars on my '08 V. We both looked for gaps in the mounting bolts and agreed there were none on my bike.


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Old 04-17-2009, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gustavo View Post
Who has an '08 or '09 with a cracked mount? I think some people are confusing the first '06/'07 mounts (or those on the Ninja/ER6) with what's on the '08/'09 Versys. When checking the gap, make sure both engine mounts are loose, otherwise you will see and artificially large gap on the side that is loose. IMHO, a small gap is nothing to worry about. Shimming it probably wont hurt, but not doing so isn't going to result in broken mounts as some posts imply.

Gustavo
I agree. In fact I had mine shimmed (2008) and took the shims out. With the shims in the bike was a bit more buzzy and honestly, I do not think there were needed.
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Old 04-17-2009, 08:38 AM
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Hi Marc11,

You might be right.
Had installed the Hepco and Becker engine guard recently and did the shims as some of the guys. Feels the V vibrates more than previously. Mirrors vibrate differently when it has not before.

I'll give it some time for a proper rundown.
Possibly, get some thin hard DIY rubber washers to replace the shims and see.

Thanks.
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Old 04-17-2009, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by stlee29 View Post
Hi Marc11,

You might be right.
Had installed the Hepco and Becker engine guard recently and did the shims as some of the guys. Feels the V vibrates more than previously. Mirrors vibrate differently when it has not before.

I'll give it some time for a proper rundown.
Possibly, get some thin hard DIY rubber washers to replace the shims and see.

Thanks.

I thought about the rubber washer idea too, but my concern was if the bolts would keep the torque settings. I was worried that the rubber washer would expand and compress under different temps and allow the bolts to become loose.
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Old 04-17-2009, 08:53 AM
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I did loctite the mounting bolt. Maybe a spring washer can also lock the bolt up.
Guess the only way is the trial and error method.
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Old 04-17-2009, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
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It's not good engineering practice to preload those mount brackets, because stress promotes cracking and weld failures. It appears that there's a small amount of frame distortion from heat during the welding process, and this makes the mount location variable. I think it could be avoided by making the mount location and welding process the last operation done during frame manufacture.

The V is one of the smoothest parallel twins I've seen, and I was raised up on British twins and singles. Every bike will have an rpm range where there is a resonance where a certain amount of vibration will be felt. Twins are less critical than singles, and fours the least of all. My old K100 Beemer had a particularly annoying resonance at about 3500 rpm, and the solution was to not spend any more time than necessary at that rpm. The other alternative, of course, is to move on to something that one considers more pleasant to ride. I've done this in the past, and will do the same again if necessary. A bike that's unpleasant to ride doesn't get ridden.
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