Technique for cutting a windscreen - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-12-2009, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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Technique for cutting a windscreen

Yesterday I bought a Versys. It is a wonderful bike but I want to make just a few changes. One is a larger windscreen. I have this extra screen from a previous life, the euro version for the K1200LT. It looked tiny on the LT but it's massive on the Versys. So what I have here is a chance to cut out exactly the shape I want.

Does anyone have advice on how I should go about cutting out my new windscreen?


Thanks,
Peter

"Veni, Vidi, Velcro"-- I came, I saw, I stuck around.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-12-2009, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmdean650 View Post
Yesterday I bought a Versys. It is a wonderful bike but I want to make just a few changes. One is a larger windscreen. I have this extra screen from a previous life, the euro version for the K1200LT. It looked tiny on the LT but it's massive on the Versys. So what I have here is a chance to cut out exactly the shape I want.

Does anyone have advice on how I should go about cutting out my new windscreen?


Thanks,
Peter
Once you've figued out your line, I'd recommend taping it off with duct tape, both sides {with your line through the center}, and make your cut with a fine blade jigsaw ...slowly. If in doubt, call CalSci windscreens, or look up the web page. There is a how-to, somewhere.....
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-12-2009, 10:22 AM
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Personaly I use a high speed angle grinder. I begin by cutting the large pieces I want to remove with a metal cut off blade. (Same as used on a chop saw) This really melts its way through more than cuts. Don’t go too close to your edge, maybe about ˝ inch or more. Then I switch to a medium grit sanding disk and use it to sand down to my line the rest of the way. It takes as long to lay out the pattern as it does to use this method. Once I have got the shape correct I wet sand the edges smooth. The thing that is just as hard as the cutting is drilling the holes, a normal metal cutting drill bit will almost always catch and crack the shield. I have finally purchased some special plastic bits but before I had them I would use an old dull concrete bit. Go very very slow. Good luck with which ever method you use and let us know the results.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-12-2009, 04:26 PM
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For drilling plastic, I'd recommend you start with a 1/16" bit, then work up one size (1/64th per...) at a time till the hole's as big as necessary. With small 'steps' the bit's won't break the plastic.
Ed
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-12-2009, 04:34 PM
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The best drill bit for plastic is a "spur point" or "brad point" drill that's made originally for drilling wood. It won't crack the plastic.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-12-2009, 05:44 PM
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I prefer using a dremel with carbide flutes and a rounded tip. Speed around 7 of 10. I hold it with both hands and use my pinkie to steady it as I drag it along the cut line.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-12-2009, 05:52 PM
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I use the saw that came with my field butchering kit. It is small and thin and cuts only on the push stroke. Takes a long time to cut but it is acurate.

Here is the kit.



The blade is made for cutting bone so plastic cutting is very efficient and clean.



I used it to cut down a windscreen from my MP3. Funny but this screen was so small on the MP3 but very big on the Versys. Here it is being cut.



Kind of a poor pic of the result.



Better pic after I added a Laminar Lip. The Laminar Lip reduced wind noise down to acceptable levels so that I don't need ear plugs around town or on country roads.

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-12-2009, 09:14 PM
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Once you get the edge sanded smooth from the cut wet a rag with MEK (Methol Ethal Ketone) and rub it on the sanded part. On a clear shield this gives a nice factory blue edge. Don't get it on the surface of the shield, it will melt it.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-13-2009, 03:04 AM
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After you have drilled a hole seal the edges to stop cracking by inserting a heated nail or similar round implement to melt the edges. Smaller than the hole and run it round the edge till you see it has melted a bit all round.
Ted.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-13-2009, 10:07 AM
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The person who made our roadrace shields always included a spur point drill bit with each one shipped, so I have a few still around.
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-23-2009, 08:28 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone for your help so far. I drilled the new mounting holes by starting with a very small bit and working my way up slowly (five steps) to the size that I needed. That part seems to have worked well.

I put the BMW screen on the Versys and I found I love its shape. I don't know how it performs on the road yet because it is still too big but I don't want to cut away any more than I have to.

I decided one way to give the bars and mirrors a little more clearance was to put on a set of risers. I got the Rox risers that allow me to rotate the 2 inch offset to the angle I like. They are now rotated all the way back so the bars are extended back toward the rider.

In this position the control cables are fine. They have enough slack for the bars to have full movement. The electrical bundle from the left hand switches is another matter though. The bundle is stretched very tight. I need to get a little more slack before I try a test ride.

I took off the side panels but this bundle is routed under the tank. Before I take everything apart (haven't even taken the bike in for its first service yet) I wanted to ask the group how I can get some more slack out of this bundle of wires. Any ideas?

Also, if I do end up taking things apart and re-routing the wiring I would like to re-wire the flasher button for the hi-beam and make it do the same thing as the mode button. That way I can easily switch from the clock to the odo and trip meter displays as I am riding. Has anyone attempted this conversion?

Thanks for any help you can provide.
Peter

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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-23-2009, 10:14 AM
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i just reshaped mine..used a dremel tool and a drywall bit, worked great!
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-23-2009, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmdean650 View Post
...I took off the side panels but this bundle is routed under the tank. Before I take everything apart (haven't even taken the bike in for its first service yet) I wanted to ask the group how I can get some more slack out of this bundle of wires. Any ideas?

Also, if I do end up taking things apart and re-routing the wiring I would like to re-wire the flasher button for the hi-beam and make it do the same thing as the mode button. That way I can easily switch from the clock to the odo and trip meter displays as I am riding. Has anyone attempted this conversion?

Thanks for any help you can provide.
Peter
That bundle is tight. It ties into another bundle just at the front of the gas tank. Not sure how much slack you're going to get from it unless you just simply release the mounting pegs and let it float.

I rewired the pass button on my control to operate the PTT function on my autocomm. It's simple enough to open the control (two phillips screws), unsolder the high-beam wires (and insulate them) and run two new wires to it. My suggestion would be to open the instrument panel and run you a set of wires from where the button is on the instrument panel back up the bars and tie it into the pass button, but if you want to trace through that ungodly bundle, more power to you. The service manual does have a wiring diagram.

Last edited by acinonyx; 04-23-2009 at 01:53 PM. Reason: Grammar
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-23-2009, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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I was browsing through the shop manual and I got a view of that wiring bundle under the tank. Not much room there. I'm going to experiment with releasing it from the front as you suggest.

I looked through the wiring diagram and did not see any wiring on the mode switch. Then I found a picture of the back of the instrument panel. That mode switch is integrated on a circuit board. There is no external wiring. Oh well ...

"Veni, Vidi, Velcro"-- I came, I saw, I stuck around.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-23-2009, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by pmdean650 View Post
I was browsing through the shop manual and I got a view of that wiring bundle under the tank. Not much room there. I'm going to experiment with releasing it from the front as you suggest.

I looked through the wiring diagram and did not see any wiring on the mode switch. Then I found a picture of the back of the instrument panel. That mode switch is integrated on a circuit board. There is no external wiring. Oh well ...
With a decent soldering iron (and decent skill), it wouldn't be that difficult to tie into the existing switch and run the wires out.
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-05-2009, 03:37 PM Thread Starter
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I’m still working on converting an old BMW screen to fit the Versys. My progress so far:

I liked the shape of the BMW screen but it was massive on the Versys and I couldn’t move the bars much. My first problem was finding clearance for the bars.

I took the mirrors off and installed Rox risers (rotated back to give more clearance) but the BMW screen was still too big.

I decided I had to cut two inches off each side of the BMW screen. This now gives enough clearance to move the bars all the way to the stops. I kept the original mirrors and with Speedy’s mirror extenders they clear the screen too.

The screen shook around a bit on the road so I added a stabilizing strap across the upper Versys and BMW mounting holes. Now I have a big stable screen to ride behind but I do have turbulence at the top of my helmet.

The top of the screen is well below my line of sight so I can add a wind deflector to the top. What I would like to have is something on a hinge that I can rotate up or down as I wish. This hinge would need to lock into at least two positions, all the way up and straight back.

Does anyone know if this sort of hinged wind deflector exists? I would like something at least 4 inches high and 12 inches wide.

Thanks,
Peter

"Veni, Vidi, Velcro"-- I came, I saw, I stuck around.
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-06-2009, 09:55 AM
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Yes, its called a Madstat, or something like that. Its made for both the Versys and the VStrom. There are a couple of threads on this on our forum, maybe under "cosmetic".
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 05-06-2009, 10:09 AM
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Here is a link for the Madstad windshield bracket for the V. http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/4893

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