From a 15T front sprocket I went... - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-15-2013, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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From a 15T front sprocket I went...

to a 16T. (About 8 percent + in gear ratio.)
I got a more "long legged" bike. I does not hit me in the face as brutal as it did before in first gear/full throttle, but traffic light acceleration is still OK. I can raise the front wheel if I want. It was not that powerful with 15T, it feels a trifle less powerful with the 16T. Not that big of a difference, though. I tested the top speed - about the same, but today was windy.
Now I have a bike I probably will like more when commuting to/from work (76 km's), which is what I use it for mostly. Will get back with a more thorough review in a couple of days if anybody is interested...

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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-15-2013, 02:14 PM
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I switched mine out to a 16T at the 600 mile check up. Have been very happy with it.

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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-15-2013, 03:05 PM
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Why did you guys change the gearing? Better mileage, or perhaps keep it under the "buzzy" rpm while cruising? Something else?
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-15-2013, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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I want to get a smoother highway commuting, 130 km/h with lower revs. I do not expect the change will affect fuel consumption. Or anything else. But my satisfaction with the ride.
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-15-2013, 07:37 PM
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I am interested. I'm still breaking my V in. Just this week started hitting 6K RPM and noticed a distinctive "buzzing" in the saddle, bars and foot pegs. I was just imagining "touring" at higher speeds and what that would feel like for extended periods. Up to 5K it has been comfortable. So yes please share more when you feel you have something... This might just be my "first" modification. Speed limits here are 75-85 MPH. I keep it 70-75 most of the time.
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-15-2013, 11:10 PM
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I changed to 16 teeth after the first ride. It is now better / smoother for touring and i do not change into 7th (as often).
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-16-2013, 04:54 AM Thread Starter
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I changed to 16 teeth after the first ride. It is now better / smoother for touring and i do not change into 7th (as often).
+1, exactly!
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-16-2013, 10:44 AM
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I changed the rear from 46t to a 44t yesturday, speedo now is on and a lot less jumpy around town, can still loft the front wheel when I want not by accident as it did a lot before the change.
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-16-2013, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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I changed the rear from 46t to a 44t yesturday, speedo now is on and a lot less jumpy around town, can still loft the front wheel when I want not by accident as it did a lot before the change.
You have geared up 4,5 percent. From 15 to 16 it is up 6,7 percent - not 8 as I mentioned above. Is my maths right?
Still capable of doing a wheelie if I want, anyway...
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-16-2013, 03:13 PM
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to a 16T. (About 8 percent + in gear ratio.)
I got a more "long legged" bike. I does not hit me in the face as brutal a s it did before in first gear/full throttle, but traffic light acceleration is still OK. I can raise the fabout front wheel if I want. It was not that powerful with 15T, it feels a trifle less powerful with the 16T. Not that big of a difference, though. I tested the top speed - about the same, but today was windy.
Now I have a bike I probably will like more when commuting to/from work (76 km's), which is what I use it for mostly. Will get back with a more thorough review in a couple of days if anybody is interested...
When you said the top speed is about the same keep in mind that before your gear change if you where reading say 70mph at 5000rpm's in top gear you where only going 64-65mph. After the 15 tooth front change when your at 70 at 5 grand your really doing 70 instead of 65mph. I went with a 43 tooth rear change and the speedo is right on plus on the interstate 70-80 is smooth as silk. Although it corrects the mph it throws off the odo so your mileage will read a little lower so it will appear your mileage dropped so you'll have to add about 8-10%
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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-16-2013, 06:36 PM
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Why did you guys change the gearing? Better mileage, or perhaps keep it under the "buzzy" rpm while cruising? Something else?
I went up 1 in the front to 16 so I can make it through an intersection without having to shift in the middle of it. It was the second thing I did to my V after first shimming the motor mounts.
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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 02:58 AM Thread Starter
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When you said the top speed is about the same keep in mind that before your gear change if you where reading say 70mph at 5000rpm's in top gear you where only going 64-65mph. After the 15 tooth front change when your at 70 at 5 grand your really doing 70 instead of 65mph. I went with a 43 tooth rear change and the speedo is right on plus on the interstate 70-80 is smooth as silk. Although it corrects the mph it throws off the odo so your mileage will read a little lower so it will appear your mileage dropped so you'll have to add about 8-10%
True, I did not think of that. So it's actually a little bit faster
And thank you for the tip on correcting the fuel consumtion. I did not think of that either. Btw, you and I have made about the same change in ratio.
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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 12:10 PM
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Did you have to remove a link when you changed the rear sprocket? I can't imagine you'd need a longer chain for just adding one tooth on the drive sprocket.....
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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 12:18 PM
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You have geared up 4,5 percent. From 15 to 16 it is up 6,7 percent - not 8 as I mentioned above. Is my maths right?
Still capable of doing a wheelie if I want, anyway...
I don't weigh a bunch 160 ish so the accidental wheelies don't happen to often but when I want to bring the front wheel up its as easy as before I changed gearing.
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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 12:28 PM
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Did you have to remove a link when you changed the rear sprocket? I can't imagine you'd need a longer chain for just adding one tooth on the drive sprocket.....

No.

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post #16 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 03:46 PM
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Good thread. For me anyway. Anyone have a suggestion for where to get V parts? I can go to my dealer of course, but I'd rather not pay the crazy MFG retail pricing if there is already a reliable discount place you guys might suggest. I'm going to order a front sprocket and change it after break in. Somewhere around 1,200 - 2,000 miles. Thanks.
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post #17 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 04:11 PM
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My dealer can order aftermarket parts and is normally very price competitive. Check yours, you may be surprised. Also get some free advice from the parts guys.
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post #18 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 04:28 PM
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Cheap parts/gearing

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Good thread. For me anyway. Anyone have a suggestion for where to get V parts? I can go to my dealer of course, but I'd rather not pay the crazy MFG retail pricing if there is already a reliable discount place you guys might suggest. I'm going to order a front sprocket and change it after break in. Somewhere around 1,200 - 2,000 miles. Thanks.
I changed my rear sprocket to a 43T because the stock front sprocket has a rubber bushing that takes a little shock out of the drivetrain when you shift from netrual to 1st gear. You don't have to remove any links in the chain either. Plus it's easyer to change the rear. As far as cheaper parts places like bikebandit, Ebay, Amazon, ect.
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post #19 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 09:17 PM
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Good thread. For me anyway. Anyone have a suggestion for where to get V parts? I can go to my dealer of course, but I'd rather not pay the crazy MFG retail pricing if there is already a reliable discount place you guys might suggest. I'm going to order a front sprocket and change it after break in. Somewhere around 1,200 - 2,000 miles. Thanks.

http://www.partshark.com/fiche_secti...009&fveh=26121

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post #20 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-18-2013, 04:31 AM Thread Starter
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I changed my rear sprocket to a 43T because the stock front sprocket has a rubber bushing that takes a little shock out of the drivetrain when you shift from netrual to 1st gear. You don't have to remove any links in the chain either. Plus it's easyer to change the rear. As far as cheaper parts places like bikebandit, Ebay, Amazon, ect.
Today is first day commuting to work with the new gearing.
I am extremely happy with the change of front sprocket - the bike is very smooth and nice. My V is now a true highway commuter!
For those of you hesitating a sprocket change because you fear a higher noise level without rubberized sides (I did) - just go ahead and buy a less pricey one without the rubber. There is absolutely no difference in noise whatsoever. No difference when it comes to noise when driving nor going from neutral to first. I consider myself a perfectionist. I hate mechanical noise that should not be there, I guarantee I would have noticed.
I combined this gearing up with a set of new tires, Michelin PR3's. So far (150 km's) I can only praise these tires.
Unfortunately the ignorant guys at the tire shop obviously didn't have the ability to balance thoroughly. I get a hefty shake over 130 km/h. I am going to buy a balance kit and carry out this myself, instead of complaining to the shop.
A good to know info for you would be that a 114 link chain is long enough for a 16T front sprocket. And that is not difficult to loosen the 27 mm nut. Just block the sprocket against the plastic protection on the swing with a bolt. Use aluminium plate between the bolt and sprocket when tightening, to protect the sprocket. Probably you'll need to extend the wrench with 1 m bar/metallic pipe or something. I think this is much easier than removing the rear wheel and replace the rear sprocket.

Last edited by anders55; 06-18-2013 at 06:48 AM.
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