engine problems/dealer problems... - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-11-2009, 01:47 AM Thread Starter
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engine problems/dealer problems...

where to start, my gas milage has steadily dropped from the 50s to an all time low of 32. At first I figured it was winter and all I was doing was city driving but not anymore. I changed out the plugs and it got a little better and then dropped again. Then I noticed the oil in the sight glass doesn't look like it used to... It's has an almost yellow color to it. Plus tonight the level went from the low mark to the high mark. so yeah it still runs almost fine I've been thinking it has lost some power but I think it's in my head. from bornriders post on stuck valves I figure it would be noticeable if one cylinder wasn't firing correctly but it idles fine... anyway I will prob. take it to my selling dealer even though I hate them... I bought the 3 year extended warranty which my one year mark was last month, I have just over 12k miles on it.
I guess basically my questions are, how to I avoid getting harassed by the dealer, and should I worry that I changed my own plugs, oil, air filter, and have an aftermarket 2bros exhaust and the 16t front sprocket oh and I have dropped it 4 times (3 being worth it...)

08 Versys 32+k and counting


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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-11-2009, 02:20 AM
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If you have documentation/records of the service you performed, showing that it was done per the maintenance schedule and on time, it shouldn't be a problem (it's the law).

Gustavo


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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-11-2009, 03:41 AM
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Add 6% to your indicated mileage to get actual mileage with the 16T sprocket. Oil level is higher once the engine is warmed up. What type and grade of oil are you using?
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-11-2009, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by asdf38 View Post
where to start, my gas milage has steadily dropped from the 50s to an all time low of 32. At first I figured it was winter and all I was doing was city driving but not anymore. I changed out the plugs and it got a little better and then dropped again. Then I noticed the oil in the sight glass doesn't look like it used to... It's has an almost yellow color to it. Plus tonight the level went from the low mark to the high mark. so yeah it still runs almost fine I've been thinking it has lost some power but I think it's in my head. from bornriders post on stuck valves I figure it would be noticeable if one cylinder wasn't firing correctly but it idles fine... anyway I will prob. take it to my selling dealer even though I hate them... I bought the 3 year extended warranty which my one year mark was last month, I have just over 12k miles on it.
I guess basically my questions are, how to I avoid getting harassed by the dealer, and should I worry that I changed my own plugs, oil, air filter, and have an aftermarket 2bros exhaust and the 16t front sprocket oh and I have dropped it 4 times (3 being worth it...)
Is your dealer a DICK or is he customer oriented ???
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-11-2009, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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Add 6% to your indicated mileage to get actual mileage with the 16T sprocket. Oil level is higher once the engine is warmed up. What type and grade of oil are you using?
I'm using royal purple synthetic I don't remember the weight but I think it was 15w40? the only concern with that is it was the automotive with some weird additive but a local motorcycle shop sells the same kind so I don't think it could cause problems plus even if it did it would be to the clutch?... as for the level, it was just above the low mark when it was warmed up... yes my dealer is definitely a dick (at least the sales teams) I think the management is a little better... but I wanted the bike so bad I didn't care... anyway as for the records for maintenance I have some receipts for the stuff I bought online but only dates other wise... should I worry? I'm probably going to go drop it off this morning and go from there...?

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-11-2009, 10:10 AM
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When was the las time you cleaned your air filter?

2007 Versys Black, V35 Bags, H&B Bars, Skidmarx Hugger.Fender Ex., Avon Distanzia, Braided Lines, Hella 65W bulbs Arrow Can, DNA Air filter, GIVI tall screen (for winter), PCIII, Baldwin Saddle. **SOLD**

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-11-2009, 11:04 AM
 
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I hate to say it but does anyone think maybe a head gasket issue citing the oil color change and increased volume of oil?
Does the oil have a "baby food" type appearance? If so some coolant is likely getting in there!!!
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-11-2009, 10:40 PM
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I'm using royal purple synthetic I don't remember the weight but I think it was 15w40? the only concern with that is it was the automotive with some weird additive but a local motorcycle shop sells the same kind so I don't think it could cause problems plus even if it did it would be to the clutch?... as for the level, it was just above the low mark when it was warmed up... yes my dealer is definitely a dick (at least the sales teams) I think the management is a little better... but I wanted the bike so bad I didn't care... anyway as for the records for maintenance I have some receipts for the stuff I bought online but only dates other wise... should I worry? I'm probably going to go drop it off this morning and go from there...?
Most of the automotive synthetic oils have an additive that WILL affect your clutch. If your losing mileage and it feels like your power is down you may want to change the oil back to the recommended oil in your manual. Don’t, I repeat, don’t tell your dealership. If their pricks they will use the synthetic automotive oil as an out.

You’ve probably messed up your clutch plates a little with what is “too good” of an oil, and lost some of the friction needed to operate your clutch. An oil change or two might just do the trick. Good luck.

Falling down is your bodies way of saying you just screwed up.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-11-2009, 11:34 PM
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Most of the automotive synthetic oils have an additive that WILL affect your clutch...

You’ve probably messed up your clutch plates a little with what is “too good” of an oil, and lost some of the friction needed to operate your clutch.
I didn't look up this particular oil composition, but as a blanket statement, this is simply not true. Energy Conserving oils may affect your clutch. Often the problem is not related to the oil at all, but rather to outright abuse of the clutch. If the clutch has not been abused, I'd look for the problem elsewhere.

Gustavo


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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-12-2009, 08:06 AM
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Well.......I think we ought to take a few steps back. It may be that there are no problems to begin with. As far as your fuel consumption......try another brand of gas after you rid yourself from the existing tank. Re-test milage. Ethanol readings have been known to exceed 25 {!} percent from some stations, as well as the fact that we still have winter-blended fuels. They both will make your bike run lean and fuel milage will suffer. Your oil color is not that uncommon and may be as a result of "aeration" from perhaps being too full. Make sure your level is in the middle when cold. The oil level will change as we've discussed when the motor reaches temp. Visually check your coolant. If there is a leak, it will turn color as well, and the level will change. . I wouldn't take it in just yet.......of course I'm also assuming it's running fine. If there were a mechanical problem internally, it usually will show up somewhere from a performance deficit......

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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-12-2009, 11:53 AM
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I hate to say it but does anyone think maybe a head gasket issue citing the oil color change and increased volume of oil?
Does the oil have a "baby food" type appearance? If so some coolant is likely getting in there!!!
I was thinking the same thing... The oil in my old YZ80 used to look like coffee with lots of creamer when I was driving it through lakes. God I miss that poor abused bike.
I guess we need some more info here. Is the oil just slightly different in color, or kind of cloudy/opaque as well?

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-12-2009, 04:21 PM
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Most of the automotive synthetic oils have an additive that WILL affect your clutch. If your losing mileage and it feels like your power is down you may want to change the oil back to the recommended oil in your manual. Don’t, I repeat, don’t tell your dealership. If their pricks they will use the synthetic automotive oil as an out.

You’ve probably messed up your clutch plates a little with what is “too good” of an oil, and lost some of the friction needed to operate your clutch. An oil change or two might just do the trick. Good luck.
TOTALLY disagree with this post! I've had CAR (NOT motorcycle!) Mobil 1 15w-50 in my Versys from about 3,000 miles to the present 8,150. NO problems!

Had a '79 Yamaha SR500 till my son bought it last year, and it was on Mobil 1 CAR 10w-30 as long as I had it. NO problems!

My '04 KLR has 49,665 kms (30,000 miles) and has been on CAR Mobil 1 15w-50 since 4,713 kms. NO problems!

I sold an '03 Suzuki Bandit 1200S (104 horsepower!!!) last summer with about 40,000 kms on it, and it had been on CAR Mobil 1 10w-30 since 4,000 kms. NO problems!

And when I say "NO problems!" - I mean NONE, not with the clutch, transmission (shifts WAY better on Mobil 1) or engine, AND I've used "extended" oil change intervals on all 4.

ALL my vehicles (and my lawnmower and snowblower) run CAR Mobil 1 with NO problems!

Cheers,
Ed
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-13-2009, 05:54 PM
 
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