License light housing melted. Why? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-10-2009, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 469
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
License light housing melted. Why?

Found my license housing melted. When I took out the bulb, it was black and had a big bulge on it. Very strange. I bought a replacement bulb but this time I drilled some holes in the clear plastic on the bottom of the housing for ventilation. Also put dielectric grease on the metal part of the light before putting it in.

My V has about 41,000 miles but I've never seen a bulb burn out like this, have any of you?

I few weeks ago I noticed that my brake light was staying on. I found that the foot brake housing sensor's stem that goes in and out when you hit the foot brake was not releasing fully. I cleaned it and sprayed some WD40 and since then it has been fine.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG00506.jpg (200.5 KB, 298 views)
File Type: jpg IMG00507.jpg (175.9 KB, 305 views)
atgatt is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-10-2009, 07:51 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Posts: 687
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
I haven't had the bulb problem but the same thing was happening with my brake light. I think it was related to my installation of Speedy's footpeg lowering blocks (which requires adjustment of the brake pedal). I took some needle nose plyers and ever so slightly stretched the spring which activates the brake light. All better now.
Mt. Versuvius is offline  
post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-10-2009, 08:37 PM
Member
 
amir_zwara's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Tempe, AZ
Posts: 813
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
wow, hmm.. if you find out why/how this happened (the meltig issue) let us know... I'd like to aviod such an issue if possible.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
amir_zwara is offline  
 
post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-11-2009, 09:52 AM
Member
 
charlesleblanc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Posts: 108
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
I might have an explanation for that:

Sometimes light bulbs filament will short partially, the result is the bulb become brighter and burns out quickly.

You might have seen a 60W lights becoming really bright just before burning out. You might have had something like that, the bulb was running brighter and hotter and burnt out fairly quickly.

I would check the wiring to make sure that the insulation has not melted but simply replacing the bulb would solve the problem.

Charles Leblanc
2007 Versys
Givi Windshield and side case
Montreal, Quebec, Canada
charlesleblanc is offline  
post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-11-2009, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 469
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Thanks Charles, that could have been. A brighter light may or may not blow the fuse, I don't know. Obviously, mine didn't blow the fuse.

Why Kawasaki made that small housing so seemingly air tight, I don't know either; it's not as if I am submerging the bike in water up to that light height.

I don't know either if it was the bulb that got brighter causing the housing to melt, or the heat building up inside that overheated the light. How long it has been melting, I don't know either.

Now that I drilled holes in the bottom I can't check if after a long ride if the housing felt very warm or not. Also, I don't know if rain water affected it by blowing in any very small crack.
atgatt is offline  
post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-12-2009, 01:21 PM
Member
 
invader's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Kapuskasing Ontario Canada
Posts: 7,846
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Your bulb's filament did end up shorting out, creating more heat until it burnt out... An LED (R5W wide) bulb creates virtually no heat, has less current draw and a much longer life, and is shock and vibration resistant.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2x-21...Q5fAccessories

Last edited by invader; 04-13-2009 at 01:26 AM.
invader is offline  
post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-12-2009, 02:08 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Edmonton AB.
Posts: 326
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
This really is freaky. Filament shorting is the only reason I can think of but, by the time that occurs, the filament is so fragile that going over a bump should break it. I can't imagine this happening again. Charles is right - you should make sure there is no conductor damage - but the fuse should be sized to protect the conductor. If the insulation has overheated we should all be dropping down an amp size with the fuse.
charly is offline  
post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-12-2009, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 469
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Thanks Invader. I'll see if an Auto Parts store has that light with the correct size in a LED.

It took a decent amount of heat to melt and singe that housing the way it did. The inside looks almost as if it was on fire. Like Charly said, it's amazing the fuse did not blow.
atgatt is offline  
post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-13-2009, 12:09 AM
Member
 
invader's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Kapuskasing Ontario Canada
Posts: 7,846
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
License plate light is wired with the 10 amp tail/brake light fuse. LED brake light draws only 0.3 amps (3.7 W), and an R5W incandescent bulb (stock) draws about 0.42 amp. So I suppose a 3 or 5 amp fuse would work.
It's a pretty tight fit with the smaller R5W bulb (same base as 1156), but the LED version should fit and work well without the removable tin shield/reflector. If you get an R5W LED (1st pic), don't get one with LED's just on top which emits light only in that direction, and not down on license plate... I'd like to try the larger and more available 1156 LED (2nd pic) with 13 brighter flat LED's (10 around).
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ledR5W.jpg (66.3 KB, 72 views)
File Type: jpg LED1156.jpg (13.1 KB, 262 views)

Last edited by invader; 04-13-2009 at 06:00 AM.
invader is offline  
post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-13-2009, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 469
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Thanks Invader. I just ordered the 1156 from the site you posted. I'll let you all know how it works.

I should write to Kawasaki about this too.
atgatt is offline  
post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-14-2009, 11:38 PM
Member
 
invader's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Kapuskasing Ontario Canada
Posts: 7,846
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
You should be able to push your LED 1156 in the soft rubber around the socket to install it. You could seal up the holes you drilled with clear silicone or something, to keep dirt and moisture out. You can get a new license lamp cover # 14025-1725 to replace your roasted and drilled one for $7.29.
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....e=13&A=15&B=56

You should, you could... you can!

Last edited by invader; 04-15-2009 at 12:01 AM.
invader is offline  
post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-02-2009, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 469
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
License plate light is wired with the 10 amp tail/brake light fuse. LED brake light draws only 0.3 amps (3.7 W), and an R5W incandescent bulb (stock) draws about 0.42 amp. So I suppose a 3 or 5 amp fuse would work.
It's a pretty tight fit with the smaller R5W bulb (same base as 1156), but the LED version should fit and work well without the removable tin shield/reflector. If you get an R5W LED (1st pic), don't get one with LED's just on top which emits light only in that direction, and not down on license plate... I'd like to try the larger and more available 1156 LED (2nd pic) with 13 brighter flat LED's (10 around).
Invader, thanks man, the 1156 LED finally came in and it works great.

Before the LED, even after I replaced the regular OEM bulb with another, that back light housing was very warm after each ride even with the holes I drilled in the clear plastic below the housing.

With the 1156 LED, after a ride, I really can't notice any heat, or maybe just so little it is hard to tell. What a difference!

I did have to take out that metal in the back housing and had to space the housing out about 1/8" because the LED is longer. The LED may fit in a unmelted housing, I don't know. To fill the 1/8" gap where the housing butts up to the back light surface, I just wrapped electrical tape around it.

The LED gives plenty of light without the big heat.
atgatt is offline  
post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-03-2009, 01:50 AM
Member
 
Mursili's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Los Alamos, NM
Posts: 642
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Garage
I figured that, after more then 41000 miles in about a year, that you must have been going something like Mach 3+ and the heat from the drag must have caused the light to burn out.

Seriously, though. I figure that someone like atgatt will find many of the more minor issues with the Versys since they will have ridden it so much. I am sorry to hear about your job loss atgatt. I hope things go well for you from here on out!
Mursili is offline  
post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-03-2009, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 469
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mursili View Post
I figure that someone like atgatt will find many of the more minor issues with the Versys since they will have ridden it so much. I am sorry to hear about your job loss atgatt. I hope things go well for you from here on out!
Mursili, what is weird is at various times for various reasons, I took pictures of the V. At several points in time, I saw that the housing still looked good, but there are a few pics that showed the housing melted even before I realized it. Then when it melted and I realized it, I found that it melted more as time when on. So, I assume in time, we'll hear other similar stories from others.

After rides, does your rear housing feel very warm?

Thanks for the well wishes about the job situation. There's a lot of people in the same boat. I'm thankful to still ride around town and thankful for a lot of things. It's also nice to be home rather on the road so much, but I miss the road trips too. In reality, my perfect world would be staying home more mixed in with occasional long trips.
atgatt is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki Versys Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome