Bad battery or stator - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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Bad battery or stator

My battery died on my 09 Versys, so I hooked it up to my charger. After a full charge I rode around for a couple of days and its dead again, I noticed last night when I bump started it to get home my headlight was not working. Does this mean a bad stator? It still has the original battery. Thanks, ahead of time for any info.


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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 01:48 PM
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I would replace the battery first. If its an original battery in an 09 its probably shot.

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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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I wondered about that, I have other bikes so im swapping it out with a newer battery. Ill give it a couple of days and see if im left stranded.


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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 03:53 PM
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A simple test is to start the bike then disconnect a lead from the battery. If the charging system is working the bike should continue to run.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 03:59 PM
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If it's the original battery it's rather impressive it's lasted this long. I had to replace a battery in a bike I bought last summer that was only about 3 years old. It was the basic lead-acid OEM battery and no matter how or how long I charged it (using several different "intelligent" chargers) it wouldn't come to life. It was well and truly as dead as it was ever going to be. Replaced it with an Optimus AGM and couldn't be happier - lighter and more powerful though it cost more than the average battery. Perhaps it's a case of gettng what you pay for?

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 05:25 PM Thread Starter
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I started the bike and it goes dead immediatley after disconnecting either the positive or negative cable.
Is this a stator or R/R ?
Whats the easiest test to determin this. Thanks again, i really appreciate the help.


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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 05:36 PM
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My 2007 Versys battery is still fine... What mileage are you at? Can you check the charging voltage when idling with the battery connected? It does seem to be a burnt stator.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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Ill check voltage when I get home from work. The mileage is near 40,000.
I have an intelligent charger? and the original battery still accepts a full charge.


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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 05:53 PM
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Ill check voltage when I get home from work. The mileage is near 40,000.
I have an intelligent charger? and the original battery still accepts a full charge.
There is a considerable amount of info under burnt stators, however a couple simple tests:

Start the bike, don't rev it, does the headlight come on ? If no, stop bike, disconnect the plug at the R/R, start bike again and see if head light comes on, if it does, chances are good that the stator coils are grounded, BTW, this last test you are running strictly on battery. Follow the manual and postings under burnt stator, testing the voltage at the battery at idle should be around 13.9 to 14.2.

Last edited by onewizard; 05-30-2013 at 06:12 PM.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 05:59 PM
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Yeah, your battery is fine.

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Originally Posted by invader View Post
Charging Voltage: 14.2 - 15.2 V.
"If the charging voltage does not rise as the engine speed increases, then the regulator/rectifier is defective or the alternator output is insufficient for the loads. Check the alternator and regulator/rectifier to determine which part is defective.
There are three types of alternator failures: short, open (wire burned out), or loss in rotor magnetism. A short or open in one of the coil wires will result in either a low output, or no output at all. A loss in rotor magnetism, which may be caused by dropping or hitting the alternator, by leaving it near an electromagnetic field, or just by aging, will result in low output."

Alternator, rectifier and regulator circuits checks... Page 519 to 524:
Burnt stator is common at your mileage. Some of us have upgraded to a series type regulator rectifier to reduce load and heat in the stator.

Others (like onewizard^) may be able to guide you in testing your stator easily.

Last edited by onewizard; 02-02-2017 at 10:16 PM.
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-30-2013, 06:18 PM
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Note: In 0-20V range, my meter readings may have been up to about 0.10V lower than actual voltage.

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Success!

Charging voltage is much more stable with Compufire series type R/R. It varied by over 4 times as much and was also a bit excessive with stock shunt R/R at 14.65V~14.90V. It's now always between 14.38V and 14.44V (14.44V idle).
Stator cover which used to be at 205F~219F is now at 184F~187F while left cylinder head is at 197F~204F... Stator cover temperature is now more stable at about 26F cooler on average, and up to about 32F cooler.

So far, I'm very pleased with the results. R/R looks great too. I'll try to witness any improvement in fuel efficiency... She's got a lotta powah.
Compufire's series type R/R does however draw about 26 mA from the battery when ignition is switched off. After 4.75 days, battery voltage was at 12.15 instead of about 12.55, but it started up just fine... Some have installed relays or a manual switch on the R/R's negative wire, or charge or disconnect battery when parked for a while.

Stock shunt type R/R has the stator constantly operating at maximum output for any given rpm, no matter what your operating current draw may be, as all unused current is shunt to ground.

Last edited by invader; 05-30-2013 at 06:35 PM.
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-31-2013, 12:03 PM
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Following the discussion, but presently baffled by R/R. What is R/R ?
thanks.
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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-31-2013, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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I checked the voltage this a.m. Its 12.15 while idiling.
Last night on the way home The bike died while riding and the battery was dead again. It was a new shorai battery that had been at full charge.


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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-31-2013, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
There is a considerable amount of info under burnt stators, however a couple simple tests:

Start the bike, don't rev it, does the headlight come on ? If no, stop bike, disconnect the plug at the R/R, start bike again and see if head light comes on, if it does, chances are good that the stator coils are grounded, BTW, this last test you are running strictly on battery. Follow the manual and postings under burnt stator, testing the voltage at the battery at idle should be around 13.9 to 14.2.
The headlight functions untill the battery is completely drained. Then it goes to the running lights (the lights on either side of the headlight). Last night as I mentioned it stalled while riding, and everything went dead.
Thanks for the help.


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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-31-2013, 02:20 PM
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Following the discussion, but presently baffled by R/R. What is R/R ?
thanks.
Regulator/rectifier
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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-31-2013, 05:44 PM
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Regulator/rectifier
thanks - I should have known this
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-31-2013, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
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I referred to the manual pages 519 to 524, as suggested by invader (Thanks).
I did the alternator test and got right around 42, which is standard. Then I ran the Table 2 Stator Coil Resistance test, and came up with .4 - .6.
These readings were from a Radio shack auto-range Digital Multimeter.

I suppose this means I need to replace the stator.
Any ideas on the best place to purchase this.


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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-31-2013, 11:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tincrow View Post
I referred to the manual pages 519 to 524, as suggested by invader (Thanks).
I did the alternator test and got right around 42, which is standard. Then I ran the Table 2 Stator Coil Resistance test, and came up with .4 - .6.
These readings were from a Radio shack auto-range Digital Multimeter.

I suppose this means I need to replace the stator.
Any ideas on the best place to purchase this.


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Last edited by weljo2001; 06-01-2013 at 03:01 PM.
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-01-2013, 03:34 AM
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I have just installed a spark right 3 colour led, battery charge rate monitor. This is a really neat piece of kit. Easy to install and let's you know if the bike is undercharging, overcharging or charging correctly, by the colour of the led. Highly recommend this unit.
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-01-2013, 06:37 AM
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Not trying to lay a heavy but you can make the ethical choice of buying the part from your local dealer, to help him keep his business afloat. Unless you hate his guts of course, in which case there are lots of online retailers. For this part I would go OEM - although onewizard has sourced a more robust aftermarket part you might want to try. I went aftermarket for my last stator and it only lasted for 2 years.
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