Air cleaner - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-11-2013, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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Air cleaner

If I am reading the manual right. It says I have to take the tank off to clean the air cleaner.
Is this right?
Or am I reading this wrong?
Thanks for your help.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-11-2013, 08:33 AM
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That is correct, but not a big deal to do. There is discussion elsewhere here about removing the tank, check under valve adjust procedure, photos are included.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-11-2013, 09:30 AM
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Yeah, this sounds worse than it is. Just do it when you're nearly out of gas (first time I did this, I had 2+ gal left, this time I syphoned it totally dry - it was certainly worth the time to syphon), and don't bother totally removing the tank - just swing it around 180 degrees with the front of the tank sitting where the back of the seat would be.

I just did this and my air filter was atrociously dirty. Also, there was a fair amount of stuff behind the air filter in the air box. Dead bugs, sticks, etc. I can't see any way this stuff could have gotten back there... Pulled it all out, buttoned it all back up, and all seems happy now.

Cheers, Jeff
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-11-2013, 09:47 AM
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Before removing the tank you have to remove a bit of plastic but its an easy job just takes time.
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ad.php?t=19448
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-11-2013, 11:40 AM
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Just a word of caution re Jeff S's suggestion about not disconnecting the fuel line. It's a very expensive repair should the tank slip and break the nipple on the fuel pump, since you're looking at buying a new fp. IMHO it is better to get used to disconnecting the fuel line from the pump, so you can put the tank someplace safe while working on the bike. Cheers,

Doug
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-11-2013, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtwodogs View Post
If I am reading the manual right. It says I have to take the tank off to clean the air cleaner.
Is this right?
Or am I reading this wrong?
Thanks for your help.
Be sure to also do a throttle body synch when you do this. It's a 2 min operation with the tank off. Suggest either buying the tool for this or building one. Also replace the spark plugs. See maint. section of the manual.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-11-2013, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff S View Post
...and don't bother totally removing the tank - just swing it around 180 degrees with the front of the tank sitting where the back of the seat would be....
Disconnect the fuel line and remove the tank! (I've posted a thread with pics, way-back-when.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mt. Versuvius View Post
Just a word of caution re Jeff S's suggestion about not disconnecting the fuel line. It's a very expensive repair should the tank slip and break the nipple on the fuel pump, since you're looking at buying a new fp. IMHO it is better to get used to disconnecting the fuel line from the pump, so you can put the tank someplace safe while working on the bike. Cheers,

Doug
Doug's right.

Ed
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-11-2013, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the great replies. Great community here!
Mine is an 09 with 2,900 miles all highway and garaged kept.
Do you think it rates this?
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-11-2013, 06:11 PM
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I think the air filter is a pain in the ass to get to.
I can have the air filter out of my Dual sport or my ATV in 1 minute.
Takes 30 minutes to get to the air filter on my Versys

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-11-2013, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by DK35vince View Post
I think the air filter is a pain in the ass to get to.
I can have the air filter out of my Dual sport or my ATV in 1 minute.
Takes 30 minutes to get to the air filter on my Versys
I have to agree, BUT I change the filter on the KLR monthly and the Versys gets cleaned maybe twice a year, I use it ONLY on road. I do wish UNI made a replacement for the Versys I have two for the KLR and always have a clean one ready to oil up and pop in.

BTW the plugs are just as big of pain on the KLR as the Versys to get at...and my Buell don't EVEN go there!


After checking the price of the fuel pump at $309.00 retail best price of $220.00 I pull the tank and set it WAY FAR AWAY.

Or was that look THEN leap?
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-12-2013, 05:45 AM
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Thanks for all the great replies. Great community here!
Mine is an 09 with 2,900 miles all highway and garaged kept.
Do you think it rates this?
If you've never looked at the air filter then I'd say yes, you should check it. At least then you have a baseline to work with. If you buy a second filter you can always have one clean and ready to swap in, which makes the whole job a lot faster (since you don't have to wait for the filter to dry after you've washed it, and before it can be re-oiled).
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-17-2013, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Mt. Versuvius View Post
IMHO it is better to get used to disconnecting the fuel line from the pump, so you can put the tank someplace safe while working on the bike.
Quote:
Originally Posted by twowheels View Post
Be sure to also do a throttle body synch when you do this. It's a 2 min operation with the tank off. Suggest either buying the tool for this or building one. Also replace the spark plugs. See maint. section of the manual.
Can you do a throttle body sync with the tank removed? Will the bike run?

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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-17-2013, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by jtwodogs View Post
Thanks for all the great replies. Great community here!
Mine is an 09 with 2,900 miles all highway and garaged kept.
Do you think it rates this?

No!!!!! Unless you live down a dirt road or in the desert.

Photos of mine at 8500 miles..


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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-17-2013, 09:06 PM
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Can you do a throttle body sync with the tank removed? Will the bike run?
Engine needs the fuel tank and fuel pump to run, of course... Do it with airbox removed and rear of fuel tank propped up for easy access to TB vacuum bypass screws. Cover TB inlets with air filter element.

Here's the left throttle body's vacuum bypass adjustment screw at the end of red pointer, as seen from fuel tank's rear mount. leave the TB screw closed as it is, and adjust the other TB's screw to balance vacuum at 1300 rpm:


Last edited by invader; 05-17-2013 at 09:14 PM.
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