Rebuilding my bike, trying to get it to start - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-06-2013, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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Rebuilding my bike, trying to get it to start

Hey Guys,

On Saturday I was driving down the highway when all the cars stopped, hit my brakes but I clipped the car in front of me and went down. Luckily I got away with minor cuts and a sprained ankle, my bike wasn't so lucky.

I've pulled off everything that's broken apart from the radiator, which took a hit when the bike went down. Right now I'm just trying to see if it will start, The bike turns on and I hear the FI run its quick test then nothing. The shifter footpeg mount snapped off so I can't downshift, the clutch lever is bent but I'm able to pull it back all the way so I'm certain it's disengaged.


I disconnected the battery and removed the alarm to cut down on "noise". I had to pull the tank off since the alarm was under it and I noticed something interesting with the power commander.

With the fuel sensor and other things on the tank disconnected the PCV will show the power light on when I turn the ignition. When I pull the clutch and hit the starter I hear a relay click and the PCV loses power. After I put the tank back on and reconnected it, when I turn the ignition I see the PCV lights flash and as soon as the FI finishes its test the PCV loses power.

Anyone have suggestions on what may be going on? I remember when the bike went down and was on top of me the engine was running then cut out, so the tipover sensor did its job.


Some quick pics:


Before I started pulling it apart:




All the broke stuff removed (except radiator because that's messy):





Here's an album of pics that I'm updating as I work on it: http://imgur.com/a/G6VMW#0
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post #2 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-06-2013, 01:22 PM
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Sounds like the PCV is the issue, or something electrical. I'd get out the watt/amp meter and start trying to find exactly what's losing power, when and where. If it is the PC I'd try taking it out of the loop and see If it will start stock.

Is there any code showing in diag mode?

Oh another thing, if you went down on your left side, your kickstand sensor may have been damaged, in which- if your bike isn't in neutral it won't start and will cut the power when you try and start it, even if the clutch is in, which sounds similar to your problem...

Good luck and keep us updated!


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post #3 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-06-2013, 01:39 PM
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What I was thinking...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dxhFZ View Post

Oh another thing, if you went down on your left side, your kickstand sensor may have been damaged, in which- if your bike isn't in neutral it won't start and will cut the power when you try and start it, even if the clutch is in, which sounds similar to your problem...

Good luck and keep us updated!


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post #4 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-06-2013, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dxhFZ View Post
Sounds like the PCV is the issue, or something electrical. I'd get out the watt/amp meter and start trying to find exactly what's losing power, when and where. If it is the PC I'd try taking it out of the loop and see If it will start stock.

Is there any code showing in diag mode?

Oh another thing, if you went down on your left side, your kickstand sensor may have been damaged, in which- if your bike isn't in neutral it won't start and will cut the power when you try and start it, even if the clutch is in, which sounds similar to your problem...

Good luck and keep us updated!

Thanks for the advice, I was originally going to pull the PCV but thought the power light would help me trace down what's preventing it from starting. I'm planning to get the diag code later today, is this the correct method?.

Good idea on the kickstand switch, I'll get the code then go from there. I definitely landed on the left side, I'll post up a recounting later.
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post #5 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-06-2013, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashex View Post
Thanks for the advice, I was originally going to pull the PCV but thought the power light would help me trace down what's preventing it from starting. I'm planning to get the diag code later today, is this the correct method?.

Good idea on the kickstand switch, I'll get the code then go from there. I definitely landed on the left side, I'll post up a recounting later.
I believe invaders method in that post is in fact the way to do it


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post #6 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-06-2013, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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Didn't get any code I'm doing it right as if I disconnect a sensor I get the correct FI code for it.

I guess at this point I'm going to hope it's the kickstand sensor. I'm going to try gluing the footpeg mount back together again, I screwed up the JB-QWICK mixture yesterday and it popped apart when I tried to downshift.
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post #7 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-06-2013, 11:21 PM
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You should be able to put your hand down there and shift the gears by hand. You dont need to use your foot and the full shifter.

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post #8 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-06-2013, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
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I tried doing that yesterday and couldn't get it to budge, is there a specific way to do it?
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post #9 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 03:09 AM
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You can't fix the aluminum left footpeg/shifter mount with JB Weld. You'll need to have it welded or replace it. I made one out of steel instead. Stock mount has a very weak point there.
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post #10 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 08:49 AM
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You can't fix the aluminum left footpeg/shifter mount with JB Weld. You'll need to have it welded or replace it. I made one out of steel instead. Stock mount has a very weak point there.
Hum ... That's worrysome
I always step over my seat while standing on that foot peg

What happened to yours for it to break ?


LOP
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post #11 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
You can't fix the aluminum left footpeg/shifter mount with JB Weld. You'll need to have it welded or replace it. I made one out of steel instead. Stock mount has a very weak point there.
It'll probably be cheaper to replace it than weld it. I'm not planning to keep this part, I'm just putting it back together so I can get the bike into neutral.
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post #12 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 12:12 PM
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Hum ... That's worrysome
I always step over my seat while standing on that foot peg

What happened to yours for it to break ?...LOP
Phil, they tend to break if you go down hard, say on a low-side. In my case, my H-B crash bars kept it OK (down left side).

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post #13 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
Phil, they tend to break if you go down hard, say on a low-side. In my case, my H-B crash bars kept it OK (down left side).

Thank's Eddy for the info


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post #14 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 01:56 PM
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Quick note.., when trying to shift into neutral DO NOT use pliers or vise grips on the splined shaft... Get some aluminum between the shaft and steel... Best bet is to just replace it... But don't mess up the splined shaft... A lot of work and $$ to replace (personal experience lol)


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post #15 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 07:25 PM
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I broke mine falling over when it stalled on a high stump in a thick bush trail... I put the footpeg and shifter under the seat, and managed to shift with a tool from the toolbag on the shifter shaft lever, and rode back home 16 miles away. Tool stayed in place, and I just had to lean over and shift by hand.

A couple hours later, I slapped on my home made replacement mount, from cut, bent, and drilled steel plate. I later added welded steel reinforcement, and a painted aluminum plate cover.

First ride of the year finally today, by the way. Lakes are still frozen over.

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post #16 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-07-2013, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Never thought I'd be so happy to see my bike idle.




Put the bracket back on today, had to sand some of the JB crap down to get the bolt through. I carefully downshifted a gear and it held, tried another and it snapped off again. Grabbed the crescent wrench and used that to awkwardly shift the bike into neutral while I balanced the bike on my shoulder and it started right up without any issues

Now that I know the bike is running I can stop fretting and start poking at the forks, the geometry is completely off so figuring out how to set that all back is going to be interesting.
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post #17 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-08-2013, 12:56 PM
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So it continues running with the clutch in and in gear? As far as forks, as long as nothing is physically bent just do a normal install procedure, disassemble from bike then put it back together


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post #18 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-08-2013, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't have it on the rear stand so I didn't try putting it in gear. I'll try that later today though.
I did a bit of reading and adjusting the forks doesn't sound as bad as I thought. I don't see any creases in the tubes so if they're bent I'll have a shop straighten them out for me.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invader View Post
I broke mine falling over when it stalled on a high stump in a thick bush trail... I put the footpeg and shifter under the seat, and managed to shift with a tool from the toolbag on the shifter shaft lever, and rode back home 16 miles away. Tool stayed in place, and I just had to lean over and shift by hand.

A couple hours later, I slapped on my home made replacement mount, from cut, bent, and drilled steel plate. I later added welded steel reinforcement, and a painted aluminum plate cover.

First ride of the year finally today, by the way. Lakes are still frozen over.
Invader - you KNOW "the Rule"... without pictures it DIDN'T happen!

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Never thought I'd be so happy to see my bike idle.




Put the bracket back on today, had to sand some of the JB crap down to get the bolt through. I carefully downshifted a gear and it held, tried another and it snapped off again. Grabbed the crescent wrench and used that to awkwardly shift the bike into neutral while I balanced the bike on my shoulder and it started right up without any issues

Now that I know the bike is running I can stop fretting and start poking at the forks, the geometry is completely off so figuring out how to set that all back is going to be interesting.
Push your V up to a telephone pole so that one side of the front wheel is touching the pole, then SHARPLY turn into the pole. You might have to do this a couple of times to get everything back into alignment. (Old dirt riding 'trick'.) Pick the appropriate side of the wheel.

Ed
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post #20 of 39 (permalink) Old 05-08-2013, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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Not a bad idea but I gotta pull the tube to check for bends


Word of the wise, don't let your wife help you with the bike.

Was checking the kickstand sensor and shifting. Had the kickstand up and shifted it from neutral to first. She was supposed to be holding the clutch and break in all the way, guess the bike shifting spooked her and she released both. Lurched forward and fell over, nothing I could do.
Thankfully not much more damage was done, the clutch lever I was planning to replace broke (turned out it was perfectly fine beforehand, it just got twisted around).


Anyways, once I picked up the bike I finished testing things out. Kickstand sensor is fine, able to shift with it up and it dies when i put it down in gear.

What's odd is I can't start the bike while it's in gear with the stand up or down. Starts just fine in neutral and I can shift it into gear just fine (release clutch and pull throttle). I've always been able to start it while in gear by just pulling the clutch, I'll need to do some research on what sensor might be the culprit.


Another thing I noticed after I picked it up, this plug was disconnected and I'm not sure what it's for. Connects to the housing for mirror/clutch.

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