Bike is stalling out (Advise needed) - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-14-2013, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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Bike is stalling out (Advise needed)

I go my Versys just about a year ago and put about 4,500 miles on it last summer and had zero issues. I stored the bike for winter and did no mods that would cause the issue I am experiencing. I road the bike early this spring on a couple of short 15-20 miles rides. Saturday I finally got out and did around 300 miles. I left the house early and experienced a stall (that's what I will call it) within a few miles of the house but decided to keep on with the trip. The "stall" feels like what you experience on a bike with a petcock when you start to run out of gas and have to flip to reserve. It would just give one stall and the FI light would kick on for about a second and the bike would run like normal again. It probably did this 15-20 times in the first 150 miles of my ride. At that point I stopped to fill up and decided to put in 89 octane over the 87 to see if it helped any. On the way back home it did it about 3 times. I am thinking that maybe I got a bad tank of fuel.

What do you all think? Is it something else? Just that tank of fuel? Where would you start?

I am thinking maybe I need to take it out next weekend and run another tank or two through it and see if it keeps doing it or not, but I don't want to damage something if its not just the fuel.

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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-14-2013, 09:19 PM
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Read the trouble code(s) set in ECU memory. The FI light will go OFF after being on, if the sensor comes back into range for any reason. The ECU will resume normal operation. However, the event is memorized.


To recover codes set in memory (Diagnostic Mode 2); KEY ON, touch the self-diagnosis terminal rapidly to ground more than 5 times within 2 seconds. The lead must remain grounded (after 5 groundings) for the remainder of the diagnostic session. The codes will readout exactly as in Mode 1.

Last edited by invader; 04-14-2013 at 09:23 PM.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-14-2013, 09:21 PM
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CODE Malfunction

11_______ Main throttle sensor
12_______ Inlet air pressure sensor
13_______ Inlet air temperature sensor
14_______ Water temperature sensor
21_______ Crankshaft sensor
24 & 25___Speed sensor (24 then 25, repeatedly)
31_______Vehicle-down sensor
32_______Subthrottle sensor
33_______Oxygen sensor inactive (Europe)
51_______Ignition Coil #1
52_______Ignition Coil #2
56_______Radiator Fan Relay
62_______Subthrottle valve actuator (sensor in range but not responding)
64_______Air switching valve
67_______Oxygen sensor heater (Europe)
94_______Oxygen sensor out-of-range

To clear codes from the ECU, enter MODE 2, pull the clutch in for more than 5 seconds.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-14-2013, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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I am going to have to read the manual about that process. I am not familiar with it.

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-14-2013, 09:27 PM
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Under the seat, along the right sub-frame rail is an orange/black wire with a bullet connector. This is the self-diagnosis terminal. In order to read out the CURRENT Service Codes (DIAGNOSTIC MODE 1), ground that wire with the KEY ON. The FI light will begin to flash codes. There will be a 5 second delay and then the codes begin. The first flash is always a LONG (1 sec) followed by either LONG or SHORT (0.5 sec) flashes. LONG flashes indicate TENS and short flashes ONES. One LONG followed by two SHORT = 12. Two LONG, one SHORT = 21. Three LONG, two short = 32, etc. There is an interval of 1.5 seconds between TENS and ONES. There is a 3 second interval between codes.

For multiple codes, the codes will readout from lowest numerical value to highest. A low battery will cause the light to flash slowly or not at all.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-15-2013, 10:58 AM
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Just curious - did you have a fuel stabilizer (Stabil, Seafoam, etc) in while it was stored?

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-15-2013, 11:07 AM Thread Starter
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Just curious - did you have a fuel stabilizer (Stabil, Seafoam, etc) in while it was stored?
Yes. Stabil last fall. The fuel with stabil in it had been used prior to this trip though. I filled up on 4/6/13 and this happened on 4/13/13.

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-15-2013, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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Ok. I tried the self diagnosis procedure and got nothing. How does one know if there is even a code to read?

When I turn the key "ON" the FI comes on and I hear the fuel pump cycle then the FI light goes off. If I am reading it service manual correct it appears the FI light should stay on if there is a code to read? I tried the procedure several time and it did nothing.

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-15-2013, 10:07 PM
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You tried retrieving the code set in memory?

To recover codes set in memory (Diagnostic Mode 2); KEY ON, touch the self-diagnosis terminal rapidly to ground more than 5 times within 2 seconds. The lead must remain grounded (after 5 groundings) for the remainder of the diagnostic session... It would probably be for the subthrottle sensor or subthrottle valve actuator.

Is you normal warmed up idle speed set to 1300 rpm as it should?

It will in fact start and run better on lower/no ethanol higher grade gasoline, which also doesn't waste as fast upon storage.

Last edited by invader; 04-15-2013 at 10:35 PM.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-16-2013, 07:56 AM Thread Starter
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You tried retrieving the code set in memory?
Yes.

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To recover codes set in memory (Diagnostic Mode 2); KEY ON, touch the self-diagnosis terminal rapidly to ground more than 5 times within 2 seconds. The lead must remain grounded (after 5 groundings) for the remainder of the diagnostic session... It would probably be for the subthrottle sensor or subthrottle valve actuator.
This is what I did. Turned the KEY ON, touch self-diagnosis terminal to ground 5 times in two seconds, keep grounded for 20-30 seconds with no codes being read. Its my understanding codes should start being displayed 2-3 seconds after the 5 touches to ground. I got no codes and tried several times.

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Is you normal warmed up idle speed set to 1300 rpm as it should?
I believe so, but would have to double check. I know its close to that range.

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It will in fact start and run better on lower/no ethanol higher grade gasoline, which also doesn't waste as fast upon storage.
Yes, the gas that was stored in the tank through winter was used prior to this being an issue. I believe I may have gotten a bad tank of fuel when I refilled the tank on 4/6/13. I had zero issues before that tank and once I ran most of that tank out and refilled the problem got better. I think the next step is to run another tank or two through the bike and see if it continues or goes away. We do have a local gas station that offers etanol free gasoline, I will make sure my next fill up is at that location.

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Last edited by Landon; 04-16-2013 at 08:08 AM.
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-16-2013, 08:26 AM
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Defective safety kickstand switch !?



LOP
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-16-2013, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
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Defective safety kickstand switch !?



LOP
Thats a good suggestion and something I had not really thought about. But thinking about it I did notice the "stall" seemed to happen when I hit a decent bump in the road, which could be have been triggering the sidestand safety switch to kick in.

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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-16-2013, 10:35 AM
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Start simple.

Check battery terminals. You wouldn't be the first to chase an electrical gremlin only to find out it's a poor connection there.

LOP mentioned the kickstand switch, good idea. I've usually defeated those on my bikes, but you've got to remember to flip it up!

Good luck
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-16-2013, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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Start simple.

Check battery terminals. You wouldn't be the first to chase an electrical gremlin only to find out it's a poor connection there.

LOP mentioned the kickstand switch, good idea. I've usually defeated those on my bikes, but you've got to remember to flip it up!

Good luck
I checked the battery (for charge) and the terminals before I tried the self diagnostic procedure. Its says to make sure your using a fully charged battery.

Is there an easy bypass on the kickstand switch? I have bypassed them in the past on my KLR and KLX, but for some reason I do like to have it on a street bike. A simple bypass that could be hooked back up would provide the opportunity to do a test and see if it cures the problem.

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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-16-2013, 08:49 PM
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To defeat the kickstand switch you usually just complete the circuit, ie connect the wires to the switch together. I would check for continuity with switch open vs closed to make sure before I altered anything.
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-17-2013, 10:55 AM
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Kickstand Switch

If anyone ends up doing this mod to bypass the kickstand switch would you mind taking a picture of the wires you cross? I'd like to do it.

Thank you,

Choppastyle

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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-17-2013, 03:34 PM
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IF you suspect the side-stand switch (probably from the stand moving up-and-down while riding...), try using a bungee cord to hold it up, then go out and see if it's still 'stalling'.

Ed
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-17-2013, 05:24 PM
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That's if it's still stalling at all, the way it already is.
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