2013 V first 600 mile service - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-09-2013, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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2013 V first 600 mile service

Hi all,

I need some help from experienced people. I have a 2013 V and plan to do my own first oil & oil filter change. I've done some research in this forum and Invader provided some great info on oil filters.
I also followed a link to the calsci site that had an article about motorcycle oil filters and the Pure One was among the recommended ones.

I was informed by the dealer's parts guy that my bike uses the same filter as Honda (did not specify which one), muttered a bunch of numbers-- 00004 it sounded like. So I asked if I could use the Purolator Pure One PL14612, and he said yes. At first he asked if the filter is a "spin-on" or the other kind, I forget what he called it.

So I have these questions:
Has anyone actually used the Pure One oil filter?
What year is your bike? I believe 2010-2013 are basically the same bike from the articles that I've read... (someone please correct me if I am wrong)
Is the oil filter on our bikes a "spin-on", and what does that mean? as oppose to the other kind of oil filter.

THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR FEEDBACK.

Lastly, sorry for my mechanical ignorance, but I do want to learn and I think I can, I think I can....
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-09-2013, 04:39 PM
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I have used the purolator filter on my 2009 Versys for a year without issues.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-09-2013, 04:57 PM
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1. I have not used a Pure One filter. I buy my filters at Walmart for less than $5.00 and they do just fine.
2. My bile is a 2011... They are all identical in the oil filter arena.
3. Yes... Our filters are "spin on" filters. You'll need some sort of filter wrench to get your filter loosened... But NOT to get your new one on and snugged up. Spin-on means the filter has a threaded hole that "spins on" to a threaded pipe looking flange that is part of the engine.
TIPS: lubricate the rubber seal on the new filter lightly with new oil before you spin it on and seal it... I always tighten mine FIRMLY hand tight only. I also have a strong 1/2 by 3 inch magnet that I stick on my filter just to arrest and hold any metal shavings that may be floating through my oil system.

GeneHil - Mount Dora, FL
2011 Kawasaki Versys
Viet Nam: Dec67-Dec68 & Jul69-Dec72
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-09-2013, 05:43 PM
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I've been using a Pure One almost exclusively on my bike since new. No issues as all, works perfectly and I like the high efficiency compared to some cheaper value models.

2012 Kawasaki Versys 650 - 20,500 miles
2000 Volvo V70XC 2.4T - 258,000 miles
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-09-2013, 07:31 PM
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The only thing I will point out is that there is more to do at the first service than just change the oil. Get a copy of the service manual and keep records of what you do.

My Versys Travels:


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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-09-2013, 11:24 PM
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At 600Km.

Change the filter.
Change the oil.
Check idling speed-1300rpm.
Check all bolts and fastening and you are good to go.

I have done 40K Km and just changed the plugs and Air Filter. There is very little service required on the Versys if you keep the oil/filter service done correctly.

2009 VERSYS-ROCK SOLID.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-10-2013, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twowheeladdict View Post
The only thing I will point out is that there is more to do at the first service than just change the oil. Get a copy of the service manual and keep records of what you do.
Thanks, dude! I did check the Periodic Maintenance chart of the SERVICE MANUAL. I now know to do all the inspections, lube and clean the chain, change the oil/oil filter, tighten the bolts and nuts. All in all, about 20 items to take care of! Looks like my Saturday morning is booked!

THANKS AGAIN TO YOU AND ALL WHO RESPONDED WITH HELPFUL TIPS!

RIDE SAFELY
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-10-2013, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by genehil View Post
1. I have not used a Pure One filter. I buy my filters at Walmart for less than $5.00 and they do just fine.
2. My bile is a 2011... They are all identical in the oil filter arena.
3. Yes... Our filters are "spin on" filters. You'll need some sort of filter wrench to get your filter loosened... But NOT to get your new one on and snugged up. Spin-on means the filter has a threaded hole that "spins on" to a threaded pipe looking flange that is part of the engine.
TIPS: lubricate the rubber seal on the new filter lightly with new oil before you spin it on and seal it... I always tighten mine FIRMLY hand tight only. I also have a strong 1/2 by 3 inch magnet that I stick on my filter just to arrest and hold any metal shavings that may be floating through my oil system.
What brand oil filter do you get from Walmart? Any specific oil filter wrench or any ordinary "ring" wrench would do?

Thanks again.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-10-2013, 11:00 AM
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...At first he asked if the filter is a "spin-on" or the other kind, I forget what he called it.
Generally called a "cartridge" filter, because it fits INSIDE a cover. KLRs use them.

Ed
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-10-2013, 03:02 PM Thread Starter
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So, I decided to go to the dealer's parts store and buy the oil filter there instead of getting the Purolator Pure One online. Again, they told me that the Honda "0004" oil filter fits my 2013 V. I got a filter wrench, and a drain washer also.

This way, God forbid something gets messed up because of the oil filter, it came from them and should not affect the warranty.

It'll be a busy Saturday for me.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-11-2013, 05:00 PM
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You can buy and use 1/2" or 12mm copper washers (at NAPA, O'Reilly Auto Parts, etc) for the drain plug, and IF you anneal them they'll last FOREVER!

Ed
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-13-2013, 05:40 PM Thread Starter
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First 600 done except...

I did the first 600 mile service (oil / oil filter change), including the inspections of various parts, fluids, tightening of nuts and bolts, etc. and everything was OK... except for the coolant reservoir. Looking from the underside of the tank, I saw it was still at the full level, but before that I was trying to find out how and where the fairing was fastened from behind. I took off the nuts in plain sight, but could not find the "behind" one.

Does anyone know? Help! ... for my future reference.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-14-2013, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ESE_VERSYS2013 View Post
... but before that I was trying to find out how and where the fairing was fastened from behind. I took off the nuts in plain sight, but could not find the "behind" one.

Does anyone know? Help! ... for my future reference.
Are you referring to the body-color right fuel-tank-fairing?... or the white plastic reservoir for antifreeze overflow...?

Ed
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-14-2013, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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Are you referring to the body-color right fuel-tank-fairing?... or the white plastic reservoir for antifreeze overflow...?
I am talking about this:
Click image for larger version

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As you can see there's a hex screw at the bottom below the brand, there's also a small on the top side. But behind it, there's another one, but I couldn't see or feel it.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-15-2013, 11:07 AM
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The coolant "overflow" is held by two 6mm bolts (require a 10mm socket) - one is on the upper right, the other on the lower left. On the pre-1010 Vs you need to remove (or loosen) it to remove the 'radiator fairing' on the right side.

Hope this is the info you need.

Ed
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-15-2013, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ESE_VERSYS2013 View Post
I am talking about this:
Attachment 19497

As you can see there's a hex screw at the bottom below the brand, there's also a small on the top side. But behind it, there's another one, but I couldn't see or feel it.
The manual show's the position of the rubber fasteners that hold it from behind. You just have to give it a tug to release them. Just be careful, once they're all loose, you have to slide the panel slightly forward to release the front clip thingy...just ask me how I found that out .
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-17-2013, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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The manual show's the position of the rubber fasteners that hold it from behind. You just have to give it a tug to release them. Just be careful, once they're all loose, you have to slide the panel slightly forward to release the front clip thingy...just ask me how I found that out .
Found it! Thanks "versys" much!
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