Clutch catching late in release - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-18-2013, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch catching late in release

Hey guys,
I never really realized it because my V was my first bike, but my dad rode my bike and was saying he thinks my clutch is activating late, like it doesnt start to catch until the lever is over halfway open and doesnt fully catch until its about 7/8 the way open. I just wanted to find out if my bike is normal or if i should have someone look at it. The lever has about the right amount of free play from adjusting the cable so that shouldnt be the problem.
Thanks!
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-19-2013, 07:53 AM Thread Starter
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anyone? I just need to know at what point in the release of your lever your clutch catches on the V
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-19-2013, 08:11 AM
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Fineout, it's pretty subjective so one person may like it one way while another likes it another way. That round dial with numbers on top of your clutch lever lets you adjust your clutch release in proximity to the bar. If you're happy about where it's at no worries, but you can adjust it and see if there's a release you like better. My two cents.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-19-2013, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by El Tig View Post
Fineout, it's pretty subjective so one person may like it one way while another likes it another way. That round dial with numbers on top of your clutch lever lets you adjust your clutch release in proximity to the bar. If you're happy about where it's at no worries, but you can adjust it and see if there's a release you like better. My two cents.
What ElTig said

Further more, if you don't feel the clutch slipping, then Bob's your uncle !


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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-19-2013, 01:22 PM
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I BELIEVE the question is WHERE the clutch engages, NOT how close the lever is to the bars. I'll try to simplify: IF you adjust the clutch dis-engagement point close to where the lever is at rest (FAR from the bars), then you are on the verge of having a slipping clutch. IF you go to the other extreme where the clutch dis-engagement point is VERY close to the bars, then you are on the verge of having a clutch you CAN'T dis-engage.

The clutch dis-engagement point is that place where you can 'slip' the clutch to get underway then release the lever, or, PULL SLIGHTLY on the lever and have it dis-engaged.

MOST Kawasakis come with that point FAR from the bars, which isn't good. I suggest you 'move' the clutch dis-engagement point to about mid-way on the lever's travel. Here's a pic of where the threads are on the lever-end of the clutch cable on both MY Vs. (I have helped several riders with Vs and KLRs do this, and they ALL like it way better!)
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-19-2013, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
I BELIEVE the question is WHERE the clutch engages, NOT how close the lever is to the bars. I'll try to simplify: IF you adjust the clutch dis-engagement point close to where the lever is at rest (FAR from the bars), then you are on the verge of having a slipping clutch. IF you go to the other extreme where the clutch dis-engagement point is VERY close to the bars, then you are on the verge of having a clutch you CAN'T dis-engage.

The clutch dis-engagement point is that place where you can 'slip' the clutch to get underway then release the lever, or, PULL SLIGHTLY on the lever and have it dis-engaged.

MOST Kawasakis come with that point FAR from the bars, which isn't good. I suggest you 'move' the clutch dis-engagement point to about mid-way on the lever's travel. Here's a pic of where the threads are on the lever-end of the clutch cable on both MY Vs. (I have helped several riders with Vs and KLRs do this, and they ALL like it way better!)
That adjuster isn't for setting the engage point. It's there to adjust cable free play. The big round knob on the lever will move it closer to the bar, effectively moving the engage point closer as well without changing the cable free play.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-21-2013, 11:56 PM
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How to set up a clutch lever on a motorcycle--like how to adjust mirrors in a car--is an area where people talk about it like it's a matter of personal preference, but there are right ways and wrong ways, or better ways and worse ways.

It sounds like your is set up right. Ideally the clutch will disengage with a minimal amount of movement. Of course it should meet the free-play spec as yours does.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2013, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ttpete View Post
That adjuster isn't for setting the engage point. It's there to adjust cable free play. The big round knob on the lever will move it closer to the bar, effectively moving the engage point closer as well without changing the cable free play.
ttpete - Respectfully I have to disagree with you.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2013, 01:46 PM
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ttpete - Respectfully I have to disagree with you.
Me too. I always have a little more slack than "prescribed", just to make sure the clutch won´t slip.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2013, 03:03 PM
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ttpete - Respectfully I have to disagree with you.
Do it however you want. Personally, I wouldn't want a clutch lever flopping around with an excessively slack cable. The reach adjuster was put on there for a good reason.

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-22-2013, 03:44 PM
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Do it however you want. Personally, I wouldn't want a clutch lever flopping around with an excessively slack cable. The reach adjuster was put on there for a good reason.
True. Excessively is too much, of course.
Adjust the lever according to the lenght of your fingers.
I have a couple of millimeters extra slack because when I give full throttle ( only a couple of times a year ) and work my way through the gears I have sometimes found my self not to let go of the clutch fast enough... Then the extra slack comes in handy.
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-23-2013, 03:44 PM
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Do it however you want. Personally, I wouldn't want a clutch lever flopping around with an excessively slack cable. The reach adjuster was put on there for a good reason.
The "reach-adjuster" (large circular piece with numbers - 1 to 5) changes the relationship of the lever to the handgrip. In NO WAY does it change the friction-point of your clutch (the engage/ dis-engage point), which you change with the adjuster at the end of your (clutch) cable, by adding or reducing 'free-play'.

Just remember that IF you take clutch adjustment to the extreme -
... friction point FAR from the bars PLUS some-more... your clutch WILL NOT DIS-ENGAGE.

...friction point CLOSE to the bars PLUS some-more... your clutch WILL NOT engage (it will constantly slip).

Probably what you WANT is something near the middle, and that is what I suggested, rather than the way MOST Vs come from the dealer (or Ma Kawi...?), with the friction point FAR from the handle-bars.

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