Would an oil change burn a stator coil? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-03-2020, 04:08 AM Thread Starter
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Would an oil change burn a stator coil?

Basically, I've changed the oil, after 7-9k miles. The old stuff came out as per usual, no blobs or anything like that. 1.8L out, 1.8L in, fully synthetic. The oil level when it is cold is right at the middle between low and high

Next day I did maybe around 20 miles around the city. The only thing I noticed was the top small useless front light flickered a bit once in early morning at the startup. It reacted to throttle but after like 20 seconds of reving the problem disappeared.

A day after I get on motorway doing 70mph suddenly electrics all went blank. No power, sometimes dashboard will flicker when I turn the ignition but mostly it just doesnt react.

Battery is okay, cleaned the battery contacts, replaced with some old one I had in a cupboard.
Main frame grounding I think its okay as well. It's a piece of interesting, fanned-out like wire under the seat that is just bolted to the middle section, right? I think AA lubricated as well from last break down.

So yeah, in my eyes the only suspect is left is a stator coils. Which I have replaced last summer or the same 7-8k miles ago.
The reason I am mentioning the oil change is that its quite a coincidence. That's all. Maybe something clogged up if oil cools stator coils

Last edited by ortonas; 03-03-2020 at 04:10 AM.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-03-2020, 08:32 AM
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Stator Failure / What Replacement?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ortonas View Post
Basically, I've changed the oil, after 7-9k miles. The old stuff came out as per usual, no blobs or anything like that. 1.8L out, 1.8L in, fully synthetic. The oil level when it is cold is right at the middle between low and high

Next day I did maybe around 20 miles around the city. The only thing I noticed was the top small useless front light flickered a bit once in early morning at the startup. It reacted to throttle but after like 20 seconds of reving the problem disappeared.

A day after I get on motorway doing 70mph suddenly electrics all went blank. No power, sometimes dashboard will flicker when I turn the ignition but mostly it just doesnt react.

Battery is okay, cleaned the battery contacts, replaced with some old one I had in a cupboard.
Main frame grounding I think its okay as well. It's a piece of interesting, fanned-out like wire under the seat that is just bolted to the middle section, right? I think AA lubricated as well from last break down.

So yeah, in my eyes the only suspect is left is a stator coils. Which I have replaced last summer or the same 7-8k miles ago.
The reason I am mentioning the oil change is that its quite a coincidence. That's all. Maybe something clogged up if oil cools stator coils
You don't have enough information, I went back and noted you have a 2010 Versys in Scotland?
I commented before on series and shunt regulators, something new has just come out and I am hopeful to be able to come up with a conversion harness , converting from Kawasaki female regulator socket to Polaris series regulator using a triumph harness and a Furukawa header plug.

There is a simple test for the MK-1 and MK-2 for stator failure https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...on-thread.html

To solve your problem you will need a meter and need to remove the gas tank. First suspect is your key switch, next the ECU relay. Does your headlight go out? Will it crank over? Pushing the start button what happens?

Last edited by onewizard; 03-03-2020 at 08:37 AM.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-03-2020, 11:58 AM
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As the stator is cooled by the motor oil I always ensure that my oil-level is FULL - at the MAX level on the sight gauge!
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-04-2020, 04:08 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
You don't have enough information, I went back and noted you have a 2010 Versys in Scotland?
I commented before on series and shunt regulators, something new has just come out and I am hopeful to be able to come up with a conversion harness , converting from Kawasaki female regulator socket to Polaris series regulator using a triumph harness and a Furukawa header plug.

There is a simple test for the MK-1 and MK-2 for stator failure https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...on-thread.html

To solve your problem you will need a meter and need to remove the gas tank. First suspect is your key switch, next the ECU relay. Does your headlight go out? Will it crank over? Pushing the start button what happens?
That is definitely useful, I will try that on the next opportunity I have

Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteddiecopeman View Post
As the stator is cooled by the motor oil I always ensure that my oil-level is FULL - at the MAX level on the sight gauge!
Isn't it a bit dangerous to fill it fully? What are the consequences of overfilling?


It was blown main fuse. Did another 100 miles after replacing it, drives fine but obviously problem is still there. It will need to go for some repairs as I don't fancy taking bike apart in parking lot to chase some circuits.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-04-2020, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ortonas View Post
Isn't it a bit dangerous to fill it fully? What are the consequences of overfilling?
It's not filled to the top of the eye glass. It's only filled up to the top mark on the eye glass.
Note: Many Versys riders have been doing this for quite a while without any problems. I helps cooling the stator.

Good luck!
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I still have a full deck.
I just shuffle slower.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-04-2020, 04:35 PM
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I'm convinced that oil level is not relevant.
First the stator is not dipping in oil. The oil level when engine runs is lower, invisible in the right lense, so likely below the stator.
Second, the stator is not rotating. So the top part is even less dipped.
So it all supposedly rely on rotor splashing oil, but it is slick like glass.
Service manual page 16-6 and 16-30 to back it if you've never seen it.

If oil is required it's only for the starter gears.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-05-2020, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ortonas View Post
...Isn't it a bit dangerous to fill it fully? What are the consequences of overfilling?...
YES it's a bad idea - what I said was to FILL IT, not to OVER-FILL IT.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-05-2020, 03:27 PM
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Modern day top synthetic motor oil is definitely being engineered to reduce heat as well as all the other things that make good engine oil. How? They go down to the molecular structure and find one that reduces friction( molecules/atoms rubbing together?) thus heat. Im not a scientist but sounds good to me. That they would think of that impresses me!
So on the Versys oil level glass theres 2 lines,hi and low range. Safe levels. Does having more oil in the system help in getting rid of overall engine heat is the question. It should you would think, more "area" to disperse the heat. Next oil change Im also gonna put in a bigger than OEM oil filter like Normand, makes sense to me. Heat in general is probably the biggest wear on an internal combustion engine.
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