2010 Versys Code 62 (Subthrottle valve actuator) - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-12-2020, 05:42 AM Thread Starter
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2010 Versys Code 62 (Subthrottle valve actuator)

2010 Versys with 42k miles
Hoped on the bike in the early morning and immediately it tries to die on me with ~0.5-0.9k RPM. It was fine for the rest of the day. The next morning it started with 1.2k RPM which would be okay if it wasnt sitting idle for 12 hours in ~1-3C temperatures.
The only problem im experiencing is cold start not working correctly. I can still hear buzzing sound, I don't feel like I lost any HP although im not sure about speeds above road limits.
The issue started next day after riding in pretty high wind, rain and some surprise snow.
Few weeks before that, again riding in pretty heavy rain, I had throttle stuck for few seconds, squeezing clutch did nothing and bike just continued at constant RPM before I turned the engine off and back on and all was back to normal. I don't know if it directly related or not

Self-diagnosis says its code 62

So I guess Im asking what I can do without removing a tank and trying to fix it myself without dishing out a couple of hundreds just for a check at dealership? The service manual says I need to get underneath and starting testing all kinds of voltages, I dont really have a place to do that kind work so thats not an option

I've read the other posts but I failed to build a picture of what needs to be done, besides the fact, it might be unserviceable, and it may cost 1000 to replace the thing which is probably more than half of what the bike worth ha
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-12-2020, 07:00 AM
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https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...t-working.html

Go through the post by Invader-(post 7-18) and hope it helps to solve your problem.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-12-2020, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ortonas View Post
2010 Versys with 42k miles
Hoped on the bike in the early morning and immediately it tries to die on me with ~0.5-0.9k RPM. It was fine for the rest of the day. The next morning it started with 1.2k RPM which would be okay if it wasnt sitting idle for 12 hours in ~1-3C temperatures.
The only problem im experiencing is cold start not working correctly. I can still hear buzzing sound, I don't feel like I lost any HP although im not sure about speeds above road limits.
The issue started next day after riding in pretty high wind, rain and some surprise snow.
Few weeks before that, again riding in pretty heavy rain, I had throttle stuck for few seconds, squeezing clutch did nothing and bike just continued at constant RPM before I turned the engine off and back on and all was back to normal. I don't know if it directly related or not

Self-diagnosis says its code 62

So I guess Im asking what I can do without removing a tank and trying to fix it myself without dishing out a couple of hundreds just for a check at dealership? The service manual says I need to get underneath and starting testing all kinds of voltages, I dont really have a place to do that kind work so thats not an option

I've read the other posts but I failed to build a picture of what needs to be done, besides the fact, it might be unserviceable, and it may cost 1000 to replace the thing which is probably more than half of what the bike worth ha
The very first thing I would do with a 2010 is have some good dielectric grease on hand. Remove the main throttle sensor connector and sub throttle sensor connector, plug it back in, remove a second time, apply some grease to the sealing edges of the connector, this will do two things, make going together and coming apart much easier, it will also ensure a better seal. Good chance you have some corrosion on the connectors, apply some dielectric grease to the contct points ( if badly corroded there is no simple fix, I use red scotch brite pads, with a small slot screwdriver or miniature needle nose, possibly extracting the pins and cleaning them although you need to know what you are doing.)
I would do this to all connectors, including the stick coils, I explained how in my Valve shim check in the How To Forum.

I would also look at replacing all the vacuum lines.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-12-2020, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastoman View Post
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...t-working.html

Go through the post by Invader-(post 7-18) and hope it helps to solve your problem.
I've seen the post it's just it raises further questions i.e.

Code:
Is the green reference mark on subthrottle sensor back in line in its original position now?
Where exactly sub throttle sensor is located? Im guessing underneath tank, so I would need to remove the tank and air unit to dig it up? Green mark? Isnt it just a black small box? Where the green mark is supposed be seen?
Invader suggest to disconnect and connect it back again but I see people are struggling to connect it back correctly
Invader also mentions about damaged by high-pressure water, if that's the case how do I go about adjusting, fixing it?
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-12-2020, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by onewizard View Post
The very first thing I would do with a 2010 is have some good dielectric grease on hand. Remove the main throttle sensor connector and sub throttle sensor connector, plug it back in, remove a second time, apply some grease to the sealing edges of the connector, this will do two things, make going together and coming apart much easier, it will also ensure a better seal. Good chance you have some corrosion on the connectors, apply some dielectric grease to the contct points ( if badly corroded there is no simple fix, I use red scotch brite pads, with a small slot screwdriver or miniature needle nose, possibly extracting the pins and cleaning them although you need to know what you are doing.)
I would do this to all connectors, including the stick coils, I explained how in my Valve shim check in the How To Forum.

I would also look at replacing all the vacuum lines.
Where do I locate main throttle sensor connector? That would be wherever throttle mechanism leads to from handlebar? And what about sub sensor throttle? I'm looking at the diagram and I would assume it's buried beneath airbox on left side?
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-12-2020, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ortonas View Post
...And what about sub sensor throttle? I'm looking at the diagram and I would assume it's buried beneath airbox on left side?...
CLOSE - it IS on the left, w/ a GREY semi-rectangular (round at its left end) plastic piece about 1" long, w/ a wiring connector coming out of its aft-end that is attached to the throttle body for the LEFT HAND fuel-injector, about mid-way between the bottom of the gas tank, and the LATERAL frame tube.


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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-12-2020, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ortonas View Post
Where do I locate main throttle sensor connector? That would be wherever throttle mechanism leads to from handlebar? And what about sub sensor throttle? I'm looking at the diagram and I would assume it's buried beneath air box on left side?
I moved the thread, too much technical info @ortonas

Both are colour coded

Note the front of the connector. To release press down on the red dot, I found a small slot screwdriver worked best, so pressing on the large red dot while pulling away releases it.This is my TPS harness for testing settings, lots of photos as I almost destroyed this connector trying to get it apart the first time, very limited room and I have big fingers.








I copied a post by Invader, post #4 https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...bike-down.html

If I would have copied the whole post it would have taken over this thread due to the earlier date. The main sensor is gray, the sub throttle is black.Do Not loosen the Torx screw unless you own a digital meter.

Below is the post by @invader
Make sure your normal idle is at 1300 rpm. Then you can try adjusting your main throttle sensor to cure the lean bog, mostly near 2800 rpm.

Here's aka Yamadog's photo, with a T25 Torx tool on the Main Throttle Sensor screw. Start by rotating your Main Throttle Sensor (lower) counterclockwise by a very small amount (about 0.5mm). Before loosening Torx screw, look at how the sensor's green reference mark aligns up on the front, with your head against your front left turn signal.


Last edited by onewizard; 02-13-2020 at 12:30 PM.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-13-2020, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
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Okay, that looks detailed help, thank you very much! I will give it a shot once weather settles down.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-11-2020, 08:02 AM Thread Starter
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@onewizard @fasteddiecopeman

Update

Thanks guys for the help. Unfortunately, I didnt manage to do much. It's been really **** weather for past 5 weekends.
I attempted to remove the connector from the pic above but I've failed to do so. It's really stuck there, I keep applying more and more force and just afraid I might break something


Took it the garage and they came back to me saying the problem is that small piece of throtle regulator, I dont remember how it is called.

And yeah, that really connects the dots, varying idle RPM, stuck throttle and etc. They also said the only sure solution is to replace throttle bodies which isnt worth the effort.

That piece still gets pretty stuck but I guess I will just continue spraying with graphite-rich lube daily and maybe that will make a difference.

Oh and the FI light is still on.

So yeah not too great, not too bad. I still want to remove and clean the connector tho

Last edited by ortonas; 03-11-2020 at 09:50 AM.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-11-2020, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ortonas View Post
@onewizard @fasteddiecopeman

Update

Thanks guys for the help. Unfortunately, I didnt manage to do much. It's been really **** weather for past 5 weekends.
I attempted to remove the connector from the pic above but I've failed to do so. It's really stuck there, I keep applying more and more force and just afraid I might break something

Took it the garage and they came back to me saying the problem is that small piece of throtle regulator, I dont remember how it is called. And yeah, that really connects the dots, varying idle RPM, stuck throttle and etc. They also said the only sure solution is to replace throttle bodies which isnt worth the effort.

That piece still gets pretty stuck but I guess I will just continue spraying with graphite-rich lube daily and maybe that will make a difference.

Oh and the FI light is still on.

So yeah not too great, not too bad. I still want to remove and clean the connector tho

I will look into that on March 16th. Could you possibly use the BBcode photo posting, much clearer photos and all are displayed on the same page at the same time, very easy to compare photos. The gallery is free and 1000 photo capacity.
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