No power - won't start - Kawasaki Versys Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-11-2020, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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No power - won't start

Has anyone had issues with their bike dying, with no power after this install?

I flipped the key on this afternoon and took a second before starting it up - the headlight was on for a few seconds and the power cut out.

When I flicked it on the first few times it kinda seemed like it was gonna start, but when I hit the starter it kicked off. Eventually it was totally dead, or just sorta powered up for a second.

I recently replaced the battery and I wouldn't have expected it to be that, but perhaps there's some drain and the battery is dead - except it's at 13v or 13.3... so that seems normal, no?

Anyhow, if it's not the battery, ideas on what it could be?

All fuses, including the 30A main fuse seem fine, but I hear it's wroth testing them with a multimeter.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-11-2020, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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No power - won't start

Suddenly, after some 5 seconds after turning the ignition, but hot starting power cut.

I turned it back on, as it's been a bit finnicky, and the power seemed low, when I pressed the starter, it cut.

eventually, only enough power to make the odometer lights fade on and out.

Eventually nothing.

Battery says 13.3V (no 13v after some funk) - recently put in a lithium battery



I recently did the polaris stator mod, so my headlights turn on when I turn on the ignition.

thought I blew a fuse, but evrything looks good, including the 30A, which I switched out with the spare for good measure.

I tried jumping it with a car (not turned on), nothing.


Any ideas?

Thinking it cuold be a fulty ignition.

Since the power is just off all together it seems like it's not likely the starter?

Could this be related to some sort of bad solder in the polaris mod?
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-11-2020, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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Got it home by jumping it - with the car on - the voltage wasn't very high with it off...

Something weird is going on though because the voltage can be higher and it still won't start. I think the Shorai battery's tripping off w/ low voltage so although the voltage isn't crazy low, it's just cutting out.

I think maybe I am just draining my battery down with lots of short trips. Hopefully there's not some subtler issue or other drain.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-11-2020, 09:41 PM Thread Starter
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Reading this about my battery, and may be related in these winter months:
https://shoraipower.com/faq
"Down to about 20 degrees Fahrenheit (-7C) most users find that they can start normally on first crank. If your headlight comes on at key-ON, it is good for the batteries to flow some current before cranking in cold weather. The suggested headlight-on time before cranking depends on the temperature. If starting at 40F/5C, 30 seconds will help wake the battery and increase cranking performance. If at 0F/-17C, leave the lights on for 4~5 minutes before cranking. The result will be a better first crank, and longer battery life. If the engine fails to start on first crank, that first crank has warmed the battery, and the second attempt will be much stronger. Other accessories that can be turned on before cranking can also be used for this purpose, such as heated gear, radio, etc... Insuring that the battery is fully charged after storage also improves first-start performance in cold weather."

I haven't been doing this
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-11-2020, 10:17 PM
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So have you solved your problem , and was it Battery or some other wiring related problem.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-11-2020, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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Actually... seems it's still busted.

It started with a jump, but now that the battery is charged on a trickle charger, it's not functioning normally still...

Unless the battery is actually malfunctioning, there's something else afoot.

I suppose I'll have to test another battery first to know for sure, but I'd love to hear other ideas.

Is it true that the starter solenoid wouldn't cause no-power on ignition?
Would the key/ignition switch be a possible issue?

Other thoughts?

Last edited by fasteddiecopeman; 02-12-2020 at 11:39 AM.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-12-2020, 05:55 AM
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It wouldn't hurt to test rectifier
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-12-2020, 06:42 AM
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My recent weekend ride ended up in a Tow truck. Morning all was normal- voltage was 13v on idling and was almost reaching home with a few kilometer left when the voltage drop to 7v and ODO went dead, GPS report lose of external power and the bike just stopped. No power on ignition when i tried to restart.

Tow the bike to workshop and found out the Sator/Alternator burned.

Test which i did was as follow:

Installed a new battery and the bike started and after a few minutes there was no charging and voltage was dropping.
Removed the Sator/Alternator and it was burned.

Hope this is of some help.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-12-2020, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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I just replaced the stator and have a lot of expereince with this. Not likely during winter and on my shorts rides, and

However, the rectifier is a possibility - but wouldn't that only impact power from the engine, no the batter?

One the bike is running the voltage is over 14V and seems generally good, so I don't suspect either. However, it's quite possible either could have led to the battery dying.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-12-2020, 08:38 AM
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Recheck your Polaris Mod installation , just to rule out possibility.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-12-2020, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
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Bought a new battery for testing and a new solonoid to see if that changes it.

Sprayed some things down with deoxit and will do some ground checks.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-12-2020, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supaiku View Post
I just replaced the stator and have a lot of experience with this. Not likely during winter and on my shorts rides, and

However, the rectifier is a possibility - but wouldn't that only impact power from the engine, no the batter?

One the bike is running the voltage is over 14V and seems generally good, so I don't suspect either. However, it's quite possible either could have led to the battery dying.
As far as I understand, a rectifier converts stators AC power to DC and passes to a battery and then power distributed from there.
So if there is any funky, irregular stuff going on with voltage, including abnormal drain - that's a good indication rectifier might be at fault.

I rectifier is held by two screws and probably takes 10-20 minutes to check with a voltage meter, a pretty easy job with a manual in front, compared to stator replacement
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-12-2020, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supaiku View Post
Bought a new battery for testing and a new solonoid to see if that changes it.

Sprayed some things down with deoxit and will do some ground checks.
First some common sense, if it started with a jump, it isn't the solenoid. I assume you used the pin #2 to #3 headlight relay mod for the Polaris, cut pin #2 wire to harness and taped. The instant the start relay pulls in and powers the positive to the start solenoid the headlight relay will drop outduring the cranking, I highlighted solenoid because many think we have one start relay circuit, when we actually have two.
I copied a thread where I discussed this about lithium batteries, a really bad idea for a motorcycle about 3 X $$$ that of a Yuasa AGM and no real advanatage
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...ithium+battery
Not getting into it in this thread, but cold and lithium just don't mix period, talk nickle metal hydride and we are talking a totally different , a big fan of the Panasonic eneloop NIMH , they can sit on the shelf for a year and still be 95% of full charge.
The problem with lithium is it doesn't have the amp/hr cranking capacity . Charge rate is determined by the battery , not the charging system. FYI I mention this in the Polaris install, it has reverse polarity protection and also short circuit /load protection, what I mean by this is , if your bttery is completely drained and you boost the bike, best to leave the booster cables on for a f minutes, as the Polaris regulator needs roughly 8.5 VDC minimum to fire.
I will go through a cycle here how I assume your present start cycle works.
#1 key on= instrument powers up, fuel pump runs for 3 seconds, headlight is on
#2 push start button= headlight goes off, solenoid clicks in and sounds like the starter is trying to turn but won't, headlight might come on the instant you release the start button , you may also hear a multitude of clicking, in that the battery voltage is pulled down to below 8 VDC and both the start relay and start solenoid drop out for less than 5 milliseconds. It speaks the lack of cranking amp capacity.

In that lithium thread there is a warning about charging below freezing, absolutely dangerous, I have experience with lithium batteries, and have experienced thermal runaway, you have a stick of dynamite on your bike, yes technology is designed to fail safe, why put a device in something that experience high heat and extreme cold at more than 3 X $$$ of lead acid??

I also stated about life of a AGM battery using the Polaris regulator in post 32 and 33 of https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...ng-stator.html

Last edited by onewizard; 02-12-2020 at 09:28 AM.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-12-2020, 12:08 PM
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I'm NOT "onewizard", but to me it sounds like your battery is dead. Could be your stator has "died"...?


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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-12-2020, 12:48 PM
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Example Of Posting / Two Forums

I posted in one thread, however a post in another thread went unanswered by me, same topic. I moved both to the same forum.
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-12-2020, 01:19 PM
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Closed Thread / Active topic Link

First I moved posts to the wrong thread, then realized we had similar posts but two threads, one existing one new one. I answered the new one not realizing the second in a different forum, thanks to Fasteddie , I discovered my mistake. So I moved relevent post to here and closed this thread.
Active thread;
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...-thread-3.html
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