If you have a bad battery and you jump start or push start, the bike is running off voltage supplied by the charging system, not voltage stored in the battery. Therefore the charging system is producing voltage non stop.
The charging system is not designed for this. This could cause the stator and rectifier to over heat and fail. REPLACING A BAD BATTERY IS A HELL OF A LOT CHEAPER THAN REPLACING A CHARGING SYSTEM.
Here is my link https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...hlight=battery
I highlighted that because you are 100% wrong, in fact those that convert to a Polaris regulator, some thought it would be a advantage to connect the regulator output
directly to the battery. In fact that is the worst thing you could do, the wiring to the battery is strictly for starting a supplementing power when at idle and the power draw exceeds idle stator output.The regulator output is connected to the main 30 amp fuse which then feeds multiple points all fused, some keyed on some relay driven.
All vehicles run from the charging system, not the battery. All of them. If your vehicle is running from the puny battery, you won’t be going far. The battery is basically just for starting the engine.
That said, having a weak battery may cause issues with the electrical system as the battery acts as a “damper” on the entire electrical system. This is an over-simplification, but as much detail as I want to get into...
Kawasaki put the cheapest charging system possible into the 650 engine (my ‘82 Yamaha 400 has a better charging system.). The voltage regulator is the biggest problem, and it typically damages the stator. There has been plenty written here about the problems, testing, and solutions. I’m not going to repeat it all.
Something I am going to point out as to jump starting / boosting/ running with a pooched battery. Dave is 100% right in everything he said. So I have been running series regulators since 2008 or 2009, first was the CompuFire, then 4012941 Pollaris and now the 4016868 Polaris. One extremely important point on the MK-3, all sensors are now 5 volts DC , driven by a power supply. What I have noticed is when I am riding at or above 5000 RPM and I am running low on fuel, if the low fuel starts flashing while at a stop, this has happened several times as well as first starting out in the morning with a almost full fuel tank, in both cases , about 3 minutes after reaching above 3500 RPM and remaining there, my fuel gauge will stop flashing and if I maintain that RPM I get roughly 12 more kilometers before it starts flashing and stays flashing, also first thing in the morning, about 3 minutes after reaching above 3500 RPM and remaining there, I get a additional bar. So what is the explanation? the fuel gauge along with many other devices on the MK-3 were designed around a 14.0 to 14.5 VDC operating system.
So why this long explanation? Running a bad battery you will never reach 14.2 VDC or above. As to damaging the charging system or damaging the stator, both false as to a shunt regulator, for you guys using a series regulator with a china stator, first if the battery is pooched , the regulator will not fire, secondly if the regulator does fire and you are using a china stator such as what RM Stator sells, expect to be replacing your stator shortly.
In the interest of those reading this, as to a shunt regulator, it is explained in my battery thread, however for those converting to led headlights from original, be aware the shunt regulator will be given a increased load directly proportional to the load reduction of the headlights. I have said this before, I very much doubt Kawasaki engineers consider this and you should expect regulator failure on a very hot day.
I have 3 polaris 4012941 regulators I intend to put up for sale shortly, I have my old CompuFire as baxkup and have run the 4016868 long enough to be confident I don't need anymore spares.