Tell you what, I will follow my manuals when I buy MY new bike with MY money and leave the internet advice to others. If this bothers you for some reason then that is your problem. No one here pays my bills or service fees.
First, yes there is lots of controversy, you mention your bike your money, as in you took offense and imply your way is the right way and also the manual says so. Well there are mistakes in the manual, follow the valve shim instructions and you may destroy your engine, go after Kawasaki because they made a mistake in the manual. Oh , us riders shouldn't be doing that work, wrong, history for me using dealer mechanics, usually the bike comes back missing bolts, improperly torqued bolts, not running the way it should. There is a exception, my 2015 dealer is in Delhi Ontario, 100 KM from me , if they moved 300 KM farther I would still deal with them when there is a dealer within 20 KM of me, won't discuss or mention the name of that dealer, I won't even buy parts from them.
So my story, when I purchased my 2015 the head mechanic told me that within the first 50 KM to take the motor all over the RPM range with short bursts to 8000 RPM, never ride for more than a couple minutes at a sustained RPM, that is don't ride at a constant 4000 RPM , also to engine brake , same way just don't hit 8000 RPM engine braking. He told me he would know if I followed his instructions. What is really funny is his brother is a salesman as is his Dad , both told me what is in the manual, to use the Kawasaki oil for the first 6000 KM.
So on the first service I talked to the head mechanic again, yes I paid for the service because I really like their honesty and I got a tremendous deal, and continue to get discounts on any parts I need. During that service he told me that the motor is almost 100% broke in at the factory, babying it could result in improper seating of the rings, thus the need for higher RPM and engine braking. He also told me that I could have run full synthetic oil right from the start, when I questioned what his Dad and brother said, he smiled
and said, they sell the bikes, I am the guy trained by Kawasaki and service them.
I followed his advice, I have 30,000 KM on the bike now, using mobil 1 15W50 , I returned the 4 liters of Kawasaki mineral oil back in 2016 and got a full refund. Yes my bike and my money, with only 5 Km on the bike, I had removed the shunt regulator, removed the OEM T stat , modified the cooling system with my original ThermoBob , last count was over 10 times draining the cooling system and changes.
I am a facts and reason kind of guy, because it is in print and says don't go above this RPM, I want to know why, the same goes when someone says don't baby it, explained to me as to the why, the video's posted and motoman break in etc. , according to my head mechanic are 100% correct, my saying it doesn't make it so, however you need to ask yorself when many of the members on here and I will use Fasteddie as a example, 3 Kawsaki Versys , MK-1 to MK-3 all done the same way, my 2007 and 2015 the same, many others here. Nothing worse than trying to ride in a 100 KM / HR zone and following the manual, not possible to reach 100 KM/HR at 4000 RPM
Nothing like a hazard on the road. Anyway my bike my money and my way of doing things. Thanks for your opinion.