Sometimes I think engineers are evil and design for long shop work to bill more hours...
I couldn't get to the stator connector on left side as per the manual.
Dunno what child-like hand are required but my XXL hands won't get there.
But can I test the stator (ohms and voltage) by unplugging the super easy access rectifier under the right middle fairing? I'm trying to read the diagram and one phase is connected to some other circuit and I haven't quite taken the time to figure what for or if it would be disrupting or misleading.
I figure I can't be the only one to try, so, I'm being lazy and asking you guys what's your thought and experience with recifier end testing.
:funnypost: You have been a member since Jan. 2016 ---and never seen a post by me about stator testing--really> Judging by your post you have a 2015 or newer, don't worry about the internal circuit going to the headlight relay, it is inactive if unplugged at the regulator. Follow my 3 phase testing, the only foolproof and accurate way is using the idle screw and measuring volts AC. Using the plug at the regulator, do not measure VAC to ground, the headlight relay has a diode connected to one phase, this will give a false reading between phases to ground. The only valid test is between phases. I do question why you would go to the trouble of checking at the regulator, as the plastic needs to be removed , why not do it at the stator side ?
You may find that funny, but perhaps there is a misunderstanding.
I wasn't interested in that back then.
I know how to test it.
More recently I did read many of your posts too, but forgive me if I can't recall your advice on accessing the connector.
My question is about the connector which, either I really didn't find, or that is truly deeply hidden under the tank where my xxl hand can't reach. I recall a youtube clip from a guy saying it's a bitch. I've seen a few gen2 clips and it seems rather different and much easier than gen3. I'll try again this winter. (which starts tonight apparently...)
I would likely go for the rectifier side connector, despite not testing under load. I just want a quick by-the-book test, given I just changed my battery.
Despite locating and following the stator cable on left side, it is truly impossible for my hand to even get close to touching the connector much less disconnect it.
I went with the rectifier-end disconnect (right side) to test the stator and that method worked well.
I read the ac voltage and ohms within the ball park. It's sad my multimeter is 0.1ohms precision, but that was enough to detect the 0.2 ohms change on all 3 phases, compared to shorting the MM probes.
My only comment is that using a ohmmeter for testing a stator winding with the exception of checking to ground, is about the crudest method possible.Unfortunately Kawasaki uses static test methods, very few people have access to a meter that can measure low ohms. I am posting this for the benefit of members reading this thread and decide the manual test method is the best way, I will explain why this is both time consuming and a waste of time unless your stator isn't outputting any power, which likely will be a burnt stator.Some technical data from this thread:
"Copied one of my former posts, easier than the links
the winding dope for both a Y and a Delta
Delta which is what OEM is;
44 turns per pole of 18 gauge magnet wire per pole, I would try and get class H---( OEM looks like a class C or F)
length of 18 gauge is 96" per pole, 576" per phase plus 20"= 596" and 1788" total to rewind delta = 150 feet approx.of copper in OEm
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Y connected
15 gauge magnet wire, 25 turns per pole= 56" X 6 poles =332" plus 20= 352" or 29.5 feet per phase or approx. 90 feet of 15 gauge connected Y to do a complete rewind
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
as you can see, 60 feet less to wind Y and 450 total turns on Y as opposed to 792 turns on delta-------advantages and disadvantages for each, one advantage of Y is less insulation----as a example if I subtract 25 from 44 = 19 X .004 = .076 inches, I gain roughly the thickness of two 18 gauge wires with less turns, the .004 is the insulation ( .002 on each side);
I am posting this more for interest than anything, this is one very difficult thing to do, especially if you have large fingers, not that it matters as you will need to come up with some sort of winding tool similar to a plastic straw.
Revision 2017, as all the aftermarket China stators are Y connected , use the reduced turns and the same 18 gauge wire, they do put out a full 336 watts, however they do eventually burn up as the wire gauge should be double that of the delta. Since my recommendation is to increase the wire size, a compromise is to use 16 gauge."
Here are some facts, 18 gauge magnet wire is 6.385 ohms per 1000 feet
Each phase is about 50 feet or 0.006385 ohms X 50 Ft= 0.319 ohms.
Be aware using a ohm meter for example checking A to B phase, be aware that phase B to C is technically in series with phase C to A, this in turn is in parallel with our testing A to B.
Consider that each phase has six poles of 44 turns or 264 turns per phase, so the resistance per turn is 0.001209280303 ohms.
Consider most top end meters have a REL setting for zeroing the meter leads which typically can be 0.1 ohms. Consider the resistance of your meter leads is equivalent to 82 turns of 18 gauge wire
Using the 2000 RPM volts AC test method will detect a 3 turn short. I will challenge any engineer to find a 50 turn short using a ohmmeter. You would be better off using your nose and smell the oil for burnt stator. For those that pull it apart without testing using the AC volts and 2000 RPM, you need to use a LCR meter .
The moral of the story is that I developed this test method using a fixed RPM @ 2000 RPM and a meter that can read volts AC, be aware a meter that costs $30 will give a extremely accurate picture of your stators health, keep in mind we don't care if it is plus or minus 5 VAC from a calibrated meter, because we are looking at finding identical volts AC on all 3 phases.:feedback:
I mean, I tested the AC voltage, but mostly for presence in the 41-62V range.
I'm curious to rerun the test for detecting unbalanced phases like suggested.
I'm not setup to proxy the connector to test under load yet; I'd have to examine the connector closer for possible needle probing its back side.
I mean, I tested the AC voltage, but mostly for presence in the 41-62V range.
I'm curious to rerun the test for detecting unbalanced phases like suggested.
I'm not setup to proxy the connector to test under load yet; I'd have to examine the connector closer for possible needle probing its back side.
I am not sure what you mean by testing under load. I have photos of testing both the CompuFire and Polaris 4016868 under load, I very much doubt that even 1% of the membership has the tools to do this. I have several Hall Effect current probes, since the regulator can output 23 amp DC, I don't know of any meter available on the market that can measure that high of a current, several clamp meters are now made that measure both AC and DC amps, your average electrician is not going to have one of these, and for sure your average motorcycle enthusiast won't. It is pointless trying to measure the AC volts going into the Shunt regulator, as forward resistance and shunt switching will cause imbalances . I do have a test for Series regulators which contradicts what I just said, and it's sole purpose was to verify regulator condition.
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