Quote:
Just to follow up on the original question:
Despite locating and following the stator cable on left side, it is truly impossible for my hand to even get close to touching the connector much less disconnect it.
I went with the rectifier-end disconnect (right side) to test the stator and that method worked well.
I read the ac voltage and ohms within the ball park. It's sad my multimeter is 0.1ohms precision, but that was enough to detect the 0.2 ohms change on all 3 phases, compared to shorting the MM probes.
Success.
My only comment is that using a ohmmeter for testing a stator winding with the exception of checking to ground, is about the crudest method possible.Unfortunately Kawasaki uses static test methods, very few people have access to a meter that can measure low ohms. I am posting this for the benefit of members reading this thread and decide the manual test method is the best way, I will explain why this is both time consuming and a waste of time unless your stator isn't outputting any power, which likely will be a burnt stator.Some technical data from this thread:
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...ator+rewinding
"Copied one of my former posts, easier than the links
the winding dope for both a Y and a Delta
Delta which is what OEM is;
44 turns per pole of 18 gauge magnet wire per pole, I would try and get class H---( OEM looks like a class C or F)
length of 18 gauge is 96" per pole, 576" per phase plus 20"= 596" and 1788" total to rewind delta = 150 feet approx.of copper in OEm
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Y connected
15 gauge magnet wire, 25 turns per pole= 56" X 6 poles =332" plus 20= 352" or 29.5 feet per phase or approx. 90 feet of 15 gauge connected Y to do a complete rewind
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as you can see, 60 feet less to wind Y and 450 total turns on Y as opposed to 792 turns on delta-------advantages and disadvantages for each, one advantage of Y is less insulation----as a example if I subtract 25 from 44 = 19 X .004 = .076 inches, I gain roughly the thickness of two 18 gauge wires with less turns, the .004 is the insulation ( .002 on each side);
I am posting this more for interest than anything, this is one very difficult thing to do, especially if you have large fingers, not that it matters as you will need to come up with some sort of winding tool similar to a plastic straw.
Revision 2017, as all the aftermarket China stators are Y connected , use the reduced turns and the same 18 gauge wire, they do put out a full 336 watts, however they do eventually burn up as the wire gauge should be double that of the delta. Since my recommendation is to increase the wire size, a compromise is to use 16 gauge."
Here are some facts, 18 gauge magnet wire is 6.385 ohms per 1000 feet
Each phase is about 50 feet or 0.006385 ohms X 50 Ft= 0.319 ohms.
Be aware using a ohm meter for example checking A to B phase, be aware that phase B to C is technically in series with phase C to A, this in turn is in parallel with our testing A to B.
Consider that each phase has six poles of 44 turns or 264 turns per phase, so the resistance per turn is 0.001209280303 ohms.
Consider most top end meters have a REL setting for zeroing the meter leads which typically can be 0.1 ohms. Consider the resistance of your meter leads is equivalent to 82 turns of 18 gauge wire
Using the 2000 RPM volts AC test method will detect a 3 turn short. I will challenge any engineer to find a 50 turn short using a ohmmeter. You would be better off using your nose and smell the oil for burnt stator. For those that pull it apart without testing using the AC volts and 2000 RPM, you need to use a LCR meter .
The moral of the story is that I developed this test method using a fixed RPM @ 2000 RPM and a meter that can read volts AC, be aware a meter that costs $30 will give a
extremely accurate picture of your stators health, keep in mind we don't care if it is plus or minus 5 VAC from a calibrated meter, because we are looking at finding identical volts AC on all 3 phases.