Engine Wont start - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-09-2019, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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Engine Wont start

Evening everyone hope youre well.

Ive had my Versys 650 for 2 years from new, and love it but now I have a problem with starting it!!!!!!

When I turn the key, all the lights come on and the revs counter goes up and then back down, after that when i press the ignition it wont start........sometimes I have to switch it off and on about 20 times and some days it starts first time.

When you first turn the key and it all lights up, normally the bike makes a sort of loading noise. Mine isnt doing this and it wont start. After a while of switching it off and on the loading noise returns and I can start it.

After I have driven it and turn off engine, if i go to start it right away it wont start.

Not sure if anyone knows what it is and if it is any easy fix....trying to avoid garage at moment.

Thanks

MrGee
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-09-2019, 04:00 PM
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I would dis-assemble the battery and ground connections, clean them with an abrasive cleaning(wire brush, emery cloth, sand paper) and re assemble. This is the first thing to try as it's relatively easy and free.

Have you done any checking with a volt meter? Also free and quite easy.
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And most of Canada too, eh?
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-09-2019, 05:05 PM
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Possibly the kickstand? If the kickstand is down and the transmission is not in Neutral it won't start. I would check the kickstand switch. Carefully unplug, visually inspect, and then carefully plug back in the connector for the switch. Make sure the bike is in neutral and the green neutral light is illuminated.

The "bike down" switch will prevent starting, though I would think that is less likely to have failed since it doesn't get exercised regularly.

There's a switch on the clutch too. Finally, the master kill switch (red switch on the right side throttle assembly) if it has failed would prevent starting. Inspect and jiggle all of the connectors to these switches.

The sound you're referencing is probably the fuel pump. If there is no fuel pressure then the bike won't start. But I think it less likely there is a problem with the pump or its circuit than one of the other switches already mentioned.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-09-2019, 05:14 PM
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https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...ber-intro.htmlplease read, please do a second post in this thread you started( if you haven't done so). Thanks
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-09-2019, 05:29 PM
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Versys 650 MK-What Year??

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgee View Post
Evening everyone hope youre well.

Ive had my Versys 650 for 2 years from new, and love it but now I have a problem with starting it!!!!!!

When I turn the key, all the lights come on and the revs counter goes up and then back down, after that when i press the ignition it wont start........sometimes I have to switch it off and on about 20 times and some days it starts first time.

When you first turn the key and it all lights up, normally the bike makes a sort of loading noise. Mine isnt doing this and it wont start. After a while of switching it off and on the loading noise returns and I can start it.

After I have driven it and turn off engine, if i go to start it right away it wont start.

Not sure if anyone knows what it is and if it is any easy fix....trying to avoid garage at moment.

Thanks

MrGee
We have had numerous posts on this. First what year? If a 2015 -2016 vehicle down sensor may be . You mention pressing the start button it won't start, does that mean it doesn't turn over or it turns over but won't start? A meter is important to have, consider a good investment if you plan on doing any repairs yourself . Better solving simple problems than waiting a couple weeks for a shop to fix it. Generally the first time in a shop will exceed the cost of even a good meter. Make sure it can read AC and DC amps to 10 amp, preferably have a manual function, some meters are auto ranging, the problem is if you don't understand what range it picks, the displayed value may be .010 which is 10 milliamp, however a auto range that has a 100 milliamp range may show 10.0 .I have attached several threads with similar problems, with advice from myself and others.

https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...ng-issues.html

https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...rk-around.html
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-10-2019, 04:06 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you for your prompt replies.

Ive read the other posts regarding this, seems to be a common problem!!!!!!!

Yes when I press the ignition the engine does turn over but doesnt start, but some days it does start first time.

The warranty for Kawasaki has ran out, but I do have a lifetime warranty with the garage - if its worth anything.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-10-2019, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgee View Post
Thank you for your prompt replies.

Ive read the other posts regarding this, seems to be a common problem!!!!!!!

Yes when I press the ignition the engine does turn over but doesnt start, but some days it does start first time.

The warranty for Kawasaki has ran out, but I do have a lifetime warranty with the garage - if its worth anything.
That nails it down better. This happened to my '15. My battery was going bad.

Yeah, if you want true ram air tuning, you better be willing to ram some air! (SteveinSunnyFlorida)

'15 KLE650LT
'99 Concours(with 234,xxx miles on it), sold
'98 KLR650


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And most of Canada too, eh?
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-10-2019, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgee View Post
Thank you for your prompt replies.

Ive read the other posts regarding this, seems to be a common problem!!!!!!!

Yes when I press the ignition the engine does turn over but doesnt start, but some days it does start first time.

The warranty for Kawasaki has ran out, but I do have a lifetime warranty with the garage - if its worth anything.
It would be very helpful to know what year your bike is.If 2015-2016, there are some simple tests when this happens. All testing requires a meter, again if a 2015 -2016 I would be following the second link vehicle down sensor (VDS). For some reason the 2015-2016 has a problem with this , mainly if the bike is stored in the rain or in wet locations. Surprisingly a large number having problems, when I say large, compared to other years, and by large I mean 1 in 10,000, this bike is basically bullet proof. The problem with the VDS , it disables the fuel pump, stick coils, with no engine malfunction light. The problem is in 2015 they changed all the sensors to 5 volts DC , that includes the VDS, I have said this before, go over all your frame grounds and engine ground, be aware the VDS is looking for something like 4 volts DC to say it is OK, once the ECU signals a fault, it latches open the stick coils and fuel pump, to reset that latch requires keying off and back on. Many ignore my comment about frame grounds, be aware the ECU does not have a copper wire connection to the negative battery terminal
, believe it or not it uses the steel frame, possibly the 5 volts DC passes over this, I don't know as I don't have a internal circuit layout of the ECU. To top it off, the ECU grounds on the 2015 are hidden below the seat / gas tank support bracket, yes you need to put a piece of 5/8 or 3/4 plywood under the tank for support and remove the bracket. Use a scotch brite red pad and a good dielectric grease, do this on the crimp both sides and the frame, think about it, a 0.5 volt DC voltage drop isn't much, but that 0.5 VDC could be the difference between starting and not.
After you have gone over all the frame and engine grounds, post again, be aware some things time out on keying on, one is the fuel pump. I always try and eliminate the simple things, those would be frame and engine grounds, if a MK-3 , have fun with the engine ground, it is near impossible to get at if you have large hands, the wire from the battery is short, one tip is after cleaning the crimp and aluminum and applying dielectric grease, convert the ring terminal into a modified fork. What I do is use diagonal cutters, cut out slightly less than the radius of the bolt, get the bolt started by say 2 to 3 threads, then push the converted ring terminal onto the bolt, I found the wire from the battery pulled the bolt off center, twice I had started to cross thread, also the bolt is on a angle, so it is difficult to start.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-05-2020, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
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Hi

The problem is continuing with the problem of engine not starting correctly.

I have taken it into garage - 4 weeks ago- as thankfully the garage has a lifetime warranty.....phew.

So far they have tried replacing the starter switch.......that didnt work. Now they think it could be the ignition switch so waiting on part.

They said the battery is working to full power.....................

So no idea.

Not sure what would happen if they cant fix the fault, seeing its still under the garages warranty.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-05-2020, 08:24 AM
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From what I'm reading here it cranks very weak or not at all. Do you hear loud clacking noise when cranking? From my reading here is first step, if you have a motorcycle jumper or tender plug it in and if it starts right off the back your battery is toast "aka bad cell" no matter if they say it's a good battery , bad cell bank loose cranking amp. 2nd step, check for metal corrosion on the starter button. inside has a small spring with a small copper plate and pressed it will make the electric contact. 3rd, did you mess with the sub throttle sensor, if you did let your wallet help you with $600 repair (trust me I had to). Also would like to know the year of versys. Oh forgot to mention if kick stand is down, bike is in gear it wont prime or start.


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Last edited by Crimson Apple; 01-05-2020 at 08:40 AM.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-05-2020, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgee View Post
Hi

The problem is continuing with the problem of engine not starting correctly.

I have taken it into garage - 4 weeks ago- as thankfully the garage has a lifetime warranty.....phew.

So far they have tried replacing the starter switch.......that didnt work. Now they think it could be the ignition switch so waiting on part.

They said the battery is working to full power.....................

So no idea.

Not sure what would happen if they cant fix the fault, seeing its still under the garages warranty.
@crazy650
You should have access now to this forum. Your problem sounds similar, a couple video's here, actually removed ;
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...old-start.html

Last edited by onewizard; 01-05-2020 at 10:27 AM.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-05-2020, 12:41 PM
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-16-2020, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
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Well the issue has finally been sorted and it only took 4 odd weeks.

They replaced the actual ignition switch, replaced the whole switch, and it seems to work. All under the garages warranty.

I want a new bike now!!!!
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