Thank you for your prompt replies.
Ive read the other posts regarding this, seems to be a common problem!!!!!!!
Yes when I press the ignition the engine does turn over but doesnt start, but some days it does start first time.
The warranty for Kawasaki has ran out, but I do have a lifetime warranty with the garage - if its worth anything.
It would be very helpful to know what year your bike is.If 2015-2016, there are some simple tests when this happens. All testing requires a meter, again if a 2015 -2016 I would be following the second link vehicle down sensor (VDS). For some reason the 2015-2016 has a problem with this , mainly if the bike is stored in the rain or in wet locations. Surprisingly a large number having problems, when I say large, compared to other years, and by large I mean 1 in 10,000, this bike is basically bullet proof. The problem with the VDS , it disables the fuel pump, stick coils, with no engine malfunction light. The problem is in 2015 they changed all
the sensors to 5 volts DC , that includes the VDS, I have said this before, go over all your frame grounds and engine ground, be aware the VDS is looking for something like 4 volts DC to say it is OK, once the ECU signals a fault, it latches open the stick coils and fuel pump, to reset that latch requires keying off and back on. Many ignore my comment about frame grounds, be aware the ECU does not have a copper wire connection to the negative battery terminal
, believe it or not it uses the steel frame, possibly the 5 volts DC passes over this, I don't know as I don't have a internal circuit layout of the ECU. To top it off, the ECU grounds on the 2015 are hidden below the seat / gas tank support bracket, yes you need to put a piece of 5/8 or 3/4 plywood under the tank for support and remove the bracket. Use a scotch brite red pad and a good dielectric grease, do this on the crimp both sides and the frame, think about it, a 0.5 volt DC voltage drop isn't much, but that 0.5 VDC could be the difference between starting and not.
After you have gone over all the frame and engine grounds, post again, be aware some things time out on keying on, one is the fuel pump. I always try and eliminate the simple things, those would be frame and engine grounds, if a MK-3 , have fun with the engine ground, it is near impossible to get at if you have large hands, the wire from the battery is short, one tip is after cleaning the crimp and aluminum and applying dielectric grease, convert the ring terminal into a modified fork. What I do is use diagonal cutters, cut out slightly less than the radius of the bolt, get the bolt started by say 2 to 3 threads, then push the converted ring terminal onto the bolt, I found the wire from the battery pulled the bolt off center, twice I had started to cross thread, also the bolt is on a angle, so it is difficult to start.